wayfarer

...a couple of random thoughts..... You need to be aware of the pre-62 vs. post-63 block, crankshaft and transmission differences as they will not interchange. It is not reasonable to expect an exact bolt-in crossmember to exist for a transmission that was many years away. You might find some usable info here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/52-dodge-b3b-hemi-project.742584/

If you search in this forum you will find many details about installing a Mopar 318. They fit well and easily clear the steering column with the A-body exhaust manifold....is your car a LHD? ...not sure what happens with a RHD.....

Nasty looking valve...... So, time to get out the check book. Be sure to sonic check the cylinders and only consider the absolute minimum overbore. There is no power or reliability to be gained from big bores. We can make pistons in any diameter and rings sizes are available in a wide array of sizes to match...just no need to hog it out unless there are multiple damaged walls. When you are ready to dip the block be sure to remove the lifter galley plug located inside next to the distributor drive gear. You will access this through the back of the block. Call if you have specific questions. You might consider starting a separate engine rebuild thread for all to follow.

First a word of caution!!! The studs that you have left in the heads are hollow and a bit fragile. Be gentle when you put a small pipe wrench on them. The 'should' be removed so that you can clean them out. The rockers are likely stuck by the varnish. The end caps/plugs need to be removed and the crud cleaned out. Brake cleaner and a bore brush work well if you don't have access to a hot tank. An ultra-sonic cleaner is helpful for cleaning the rocker arms but you will also likely need to clean out the small oil passages by hand. Use small drill bits between your fingers to open the small holes. Dorman plugs #555-011 for the shaft ends.

As mentioned, big trucks have a small(er) following. If you have room to store the frame then eventually you might fine someone in need. When you attend swap meets/car shows keep your ears open. You might also see if there are any farm/machinery swap meets...never know what/who you'll find. How about some photos of the new project?

Karma points to yourpc48 !

Perhaps I mis-read something...didn't you say the block was cracked? A engine parts are readily available, just about everywhere...NAPA, RockAuto and points between.

Is the gap due to the input shaft bottoming out in the crank? If so, you can snip off the end of the shaft as needed. As far as pilot bushing/bearing you can mount one in the flywheel itself: Cut an alum bushing to press into the flywheel and press a sealed bearing into the center of the bushing.

The factory 4-bbl intake for the A engine is difficult to find; I would be asking $300 if I had it. A 4-bbl for the 315-325 is a bit easier to find, sadly I don't have one to offer. Put a classified ad in the Hamb classifieds and expect to pay $250 or so.

...Houston, we have a problem..... The 230 flywheel is a direct fit to the 315. The bolt pattern is exactly the same. Even if your 230 has a 6-bolt crank flange it is the same pattern as the 8-bolt and you can use it with 6 bolts. "slightly different pattern" there is one bolt that is off by 4 degrees if that is where you are having trouble but, all of the 8-bolt patterns have the same off-set bolt.

Let us know what you find on the trans pattern.

Not sure where you are heading William; the carb in the photo is an early AFB and the A engine is entirely different from your 260 Poly. If the OP wants to maintain an 'ol-timey look then a pre-67 318, with the above 4-bbl manifold, will do the trick. 1967 and newer LA engines (318-340-360) use different intake manifolds. The bellhousing in the photo may, or may not work, all depending on the year of the engine. The bellhousing bolt pattern as well as the crankshaft were changed for the 1962 model year and will not interchange with pre-62 assemblies.

The 4-bbl manifold indicates a 57-59 318, but manifolds get changed easily. Yes it is an A series engine but, without seeing the crank flange, it could be as late as '66. The side mounts attached to the engine are not oem.....and how about that exhaust 'pipe'........

Excellent information about the pedal attachment. Looks like you are golden with the dual pattern bell. The only possible issue will be the trans pattern and/or the input shaft length....both can be 'fixed'.... What is the asking price on the bell?

The biggest concerns are what is attached to the existing bell... Can you measure the depth of your existing bell? Are your clutch related parts attached to the driver side? New rear mounts are the easy part. Does anyone have a photo of something similar?

Exploders should all be the same at 59½", the Rangers vary some. Look here: http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=1023

Hopefully, some of the 'truck' guys will opine as to the perfect bell to fit the chassis. As long as it is from a pre-60 L6 with the dual block pattern or a pre-62 'A' series engine or an EarlyHemi/Poly then the block is covered but you, no doubt, have 'stuff' hanging on your existing bell that will be needed. There may also be differences in the trans mounting pattern but it should be easier to 'fix'.... Although the rear mounts could be fabricated the clutch related parts might be more difficult. Do you have a pic of what your existing bell looks like? I don't have a truck-parts book for 1954 so have nothing to look at...

Don't forget about Robert Horne's 5-speed swap.

Excellent read!! Gotta love the Suburbans.

You have plenty of options if you are making new wheels and the 'hoop' should be chosen based on the potential tire sizes. For future reference, I would however, check the clearance with a stock wheel so that you'll know what you have if you needed to use one. Personally, I like the look that a fair amount of offset provides. Also, keep in mind that depending on the tire used on any particular hoop width, you will have some sidewall extending past the rim.

If you are keeping the stock wheels then look at the amount of clearance behind the tire/wheel and decide if the loss/gain will be a problem.

I will assume that you really don't have any in-depth knowledge of the regrinding process. There is nothing 'wrong' with the duration; the big lift is the issue but that is easily fixed with a new profile...cut the top off!

Sadly, you are spot-on......far too many of the guys in the various shops only 'know' what they can find on their damned phones.....I'm still a bit miffed that Reid Oliver retired years ago at/from Crower. My hope is that if the OP has a part number from his old catalogue they will have some application history in their archives. The other thing to consider is that the cams we commonly spec/use today would seem quite radical to a 1960's hot-rodder. If all else fails the OP can regrind it to something else.

Here is a novel approach....call Isky and talk with one of their tech guys. Give them the run down on the rest of your engine specs, or what you plan to do to the engine, and get their recommendation.

As listed on my website, this is my favorite number-crunching link: http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/gears/gear_calc.html