wayfarer

I have always been fond of the cop car wheels. The 7x15 works with many tire sizes.

Nice. Now what are you planning for compression?

As others have said, use a box-end wrench. My procedure is a quick heat cycle, although I never go as far as the 'red zone', then I start by trying to tighten the bolt/nut ever-so-slightly, then reverse. Some times I will rock the offending bolt forth-n-back all the time applying a lube. On some larger bolts I have drilled a small hole through the bolt to the bottom. This allows for lube to reach the bottom.

Good point on the over-all condition of the wire. Many cars have been rewired simply due to the old insulation.

...it will be a PITA to keep track of duplicate threads....can the mods combine them?

Agree, no reason to change to 12v just for the exercise and the shiverlay bracket is pretty much a paper weight. There is nothing similar between the two engines..... well, ok, spark plugs.....

No personal experience so I'd call and talk with Charlie (www.rustyhope.com)

You could use the engine and source/install a manual trans from a pre-1960 L6 as noted, however, do not use a 218 flywheel as these had/have a different offset from the crank flange and will place the ring gear about 0.185" farther aft than 'normal'. Also note that there are some bellhousings that are drilled for both the L6 and the V8 and can be used. There are several different bell designs related to rear mounts and these may, or may not, affect your swap depending on your needs and fab skills....

Some nice looking sheet metal there!

LA = 318-340-360 TF = Torqueflite Since you need a manual, the 318-360 was available with the AX-15 in Dakota and 1500 trucks. There was also a Getrag 236, 6-speed, for a couple of years....

...seems like the 292 would be longer than the L-head so check that. Do you need to keep the t5? The LA-TF package is fairly compact and has plenty of tow capacity.

two comments.... •With a modern spin-on filter the replacement anti-drainback valve is not needed IF you are using a filter designed for horizontal installation. •When used, the replacement valve should have a 'window' facing the side of the block, 90ø from your position.

I agree that freight just about doubles the cost but at $5 a hole still not too bad a deal for carbide.

On the Land Speed site a guy posted that the company he works for was going out of the hole saw making business and selling out at $2.35 a saw. Bimetal or carbide tipped. I bought some and tried a 1 7/16 and a 3 7/8 carbide tip today and they cut on size and round dry. I love them and the price is great. I tried on a '56 Chevy pickup frame piece (.150 steel and .041 half hard copper. Head gasket material) Love them. But I think all the popular sizes are gone now. If you think you will need hole saws for a project then time to stock up. For reasons unknown to me you have to click the Fine Woodworking banner at the top of the page to get to the carbide tipped saws. http://www.sawbladeexpress.com/ProductListing.aspx?CatId=c99cfe4d-df45-40b8-a8cc-49e370177476 The amount of available inventory is unknown.

Canadian eh? Should be a 230 but.......is it a 23" long head? Bookmark this site: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

Any competent crankshaft rebuilder should have the equipment and ability to repair the thrust. There is little difference in the process to weld up a journal or the thrust. As to the rear seal surface, keep in mind that it has been designed and 'grooved' for a rope seal so any repair/resurfacing will have to be done in a similar fashion. The rear seal 'hatching' is not a cross-hatch, it is directional. IDK if a lip seal is available.

How long have you been driving the car? When did you first notice the issue? I'd be looking at all of the engine mounts/rubber insulators. As to the flywheel, the amount of torque only affects balance if it is inadequate and a bolt/nut gets loose/falls out....not a likely scenario. As stated, the flywheel only goes on one way due to one bolt having been moved in the pattern, so I'd be looking at the pressure plate bolts to insure that they are correct as this could allow for a very slight misalignment and subsequent vibration. This is not real high on my 'likely-suspects' list however.

Since you claim to be an expert in this subject..... • How, EXACTLY, is a transmission aligned to a bellhousing? And if the front bearing retainer is not 'designed' for this purpose, then why does MaMopar go to the trouble of dedicating a page in the service manual (section 6-9) to explain why the bell must be aligned to the block? Perhaps no alignment is needed on any of these parts....... As an edit, I have been challenged to post photos of my adapter for the A-833 to L6 bell. Since I do not (yet) make one I have no pics to offer. Until the previous photos had been posted I fully assumed that any adapter would, in fact, have some means of registration. For those that question the need I can only say to do a little research regarding parallel shaft mis-alignment and the resulting issues.

Looking at the adapter I do not see any means of registering said adapter to the bellhousing. You cannot rely on the bolts to provide registration and the front bearing will complain if the TIR exceeds 0.007". So, what is planned?

One issue that I have seen on some disc installations is that the caliper is positioned so that the bleed screw is not at the top and, of course, air is trapped and results in a spongy pedal. You might take a second look at your caliper position.

Some of the later trucks also used a 6-bolt crank/flywheel, same pattern of course, not the post-62 version.

an inline 7 cylinder???????? come on, we need photos........ Boy, you Aussies get all of the cool stuff.

Yup, the 'crack' is in the side of the balancing hole in the crankshaft counterweight. Not an issue. If it bothers you then hit it with a round file until it goes away. Yeah, those mounts are something else. I'd be getting rid of them regardless of what engine goes back in....make new pieces.

You will need a new driveshaft along with a new rear axle in order to maintain an e-brake. Your oem setup has the e-brake on the trans. The Explore and Cherokee units are very popular. I will also suggest that you take a bunch of photos of the installed package so that you can sort through the clutch linkage and related mounting issues.

The rear gear is only as important as the available torque....... How much 'ya got???