kencombs

Are you ordering a 'new' or turned crank? Never have I bought an actual new, as in standard size, never installed crank. I've always purchased a reground crank with the appropriate size bearings. And, that requires a core, or a sizeable deposit. So tearing the engine down first saves a trip to the parts store as you can take the crank in and pick up the replacement in one trip. Most any parts store can get the parts for you. Rockauto has a crank and bearing set for a little less than 250. + shipping of course. Here is another source I found online: https://www.mabbco.com/catalog/engine-parts/national-crankshaft-kit-program/manufacturer/chrysler/dodge-chrylser-33-201-crankshaft-crank-kit-1990-2006/. and it doesn't require a core or return shipping.

Heresy, I know but Chevy trucks of the kick starter era used a bellows seal that would probably adapt.

Big bottles or CO2/Argon mix are nice, but not necessary. I used small CO2 bottles for years before upgrading. My tanks started life as Kidde CO2 fire extinguisher bottles. The fitting was changed to accept a CO2 regulator. Nice size, as they fit the carry hole in the back of a lot of little 120v Migs. Mine is made by Century, since purchased by Lincoln. Made a nice little portable rig. Easy to get it close to the work to make up for the short stinger most have. CO2 shielding creates more spatter than Argon or mixes, but penetrates well. If you can find a couple of 5lb bottles and a supplier that will certify and install the fitting they work great. Fill both to start the swap and fill as needed. I think I have used flux core a couple of times when I needed to weld outside and didn't need particularly neat welds, good thing too, 'cause I don't do neat very well.

Probably had a piston replaced sometime in the past. Not a problem.

Here is a clear explanation of a generic regulator. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/83.cfm Notice that the cutout relay only connects and disconnects the generator from the battery when not running to prevent discharging. The voltage and current relays are what sets the limits of those details. It's easy to ID the voltage relay as it is connected to the field terminal of the generator. It's not all that hard to change the setting a little at a time. No risk to life and limb from 6v dc, unless dealing with way more current than is present in a normal auto circuit.

an old Motors manual will have a section on servicing the reg. Along with much more info on engine, trans, brakes etc. Well worth purchasing. And available online, ebay etc, almost daily. Adjustment is fairly easy, just bending and taking measurements.

I think I read that you have good cast pulley with a seperate hub. But that combo doesn't match the other pulleys alignment> And, you have a one piece pulley and hub that has grooves in the hub part. Do you have a pic to the original? Posting it would help. And to follow the site rules, the parts request should be in the 'parts wanted' area I think.

Sealed Power, VG-419 AND VG-420. Fits all 218/230 I believe. I much prefer to buy from known brands when possible.

I did the exhaust guides in my 230. Luckily no reaming required. I think that's because the current production guides for intake and exhaust have different part numbers, and the only difference is the ID. Cast guides don't shrink when installed like steel or bronze. But, if one had some real old stock, they where the same ID and required reaming for sure. Seats need to be remachined when guides are replaced. Some just lap, but I don't trust that to get the valve face and seat concentric.

I think you're right about the 230. Longer stroke = more torsional stresses.

It is documented somewhere on this site, but I don't have a link handy. Short description: Drill and tap 2 holes for 1/4" pipe thread in the block . These intersect the oil passage from the pump to the oil pipe that goes to the main galley. then insert a plug into the passage to separate the two holes. Now oil from the pump will go out the first hole to be piped to the filter and return to the second. I've got mine drilled and tapped as well as having the filter base mounted on the lower rear of the block. I used a base for a PH8 Fram filter, common to 60s/70s Fords. I used a couple of fittings I had from old e218/230 engines. They are 1/4" pipe but use an odd tube size, that seems to be 7/16". 3/8 and 1/2 are common, but I've yet to find any tubing that matches the one Mopar used. And I'd really like to keep the larger. 3/8 would be easy, 1/2 not so much. f

I've had 4 different 218/230s in the last couple of years. 50/51 and 56 years. Only the 56 Plymouth had the dampener type pulley. The others are one piece, no dampener ring at all. They fit, but don't have that function.

I'm surprised that the industrial line of 218/230 engines were never made with full flow filtering. Especially since the 25" ind's were often found with them and the smaller ones were made up into the 70s. Has anyone ever encountered a forklift, aircraft tug etc with the shorter engine and full flow? I never have for sure. But my 230 will have one.

I had to read Sniper's answer before I realized that you didn't mispell wierd! Middle finger, wrong hand, common for a touch typist. 'word recalcitrant' makes much more sense than weird.

The soft metal issue, along with use of 'expand' rather flare in the amazon links description makes me think they are talking about expanding a length of tube for a slip fit for joining two sections. I have a die for that on one of my older sets, works on copper but with difficulty. I'd bet the writer of that is has neither first hand knowledge of the tool nor has English as his/her first language. Converting technical/trade knowledge to 'everyday' language is hard enough if the source and the audience share the same language.

I had the same thought, each and every time I glanced at the title. Maybe 'cause I'm old.

Not brakes, hydraulics. Small front loader and rear 3pt.

True of 218/230 and some long blocks. But some 251 and 265 had factory full flow systems. And my 230 will be full flow if I ever get it installed. Retrofit of course, installed by me but copied from another member's design.

No Not all 37deg stuff is AN. JIC is 37 also. Usually, not always, AN fittings will be aluminum while JIC are steel or stainless. Either are good for much more pressure than our brakes will ever see. Not all AN/JIC is DOT approved, but some are. The DOT approval doesn't specify materials but does have a very rigorous test process that must be done to gain approval. The cost of that process is why most of them aren't approved. The DOT approved 37deg stuff is many times more expensive that the others. As far as I can tell there is no DOT approval or regulation for or against 37deg hard lines, just the flexible parts. I have a need for 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8" 37deg tooling for a tractor project and will probably use 1/4 for my brake hard lines. Fortunately, inspection is not an issue in OK as we scrapped that worthless law many years back. All it proved in our implementation was that the vehicle had adequate brake pedal and tread depth, all lights and wipers worked, ONE DAY of the year. My Dad owned a salvage from 1960 though 1990. An untold number of wrecks went in and out of inventory during that time. Not one was caused by a defective vehicle. OTOH, a high school classmate was killed by a driver with no brakes who ran a stop sign and broadsided the car she was in. The car had a valid inspection sticker. The problem with our law was that the original procedure spelled out in the law required far to much labor to execute for the statutory pricing. So, shortcuts were taken and eventually no shops would sign up to be inspection stations. Lawmakers looked at the alternatives, raise the price, get the state into the inspection business or drop it.

Another flare tool question. I have a good old style set but would like a 37deg male end. Anyone know of a source? And/or a complete 38deg that won’t break the bank. id like to add that capability up to 3/8 tube size. Takes more parts but seems easier to do JIC/AN than doubles

Reaming and filing the end straight are key to making good flares along with a little lube. lots of lube choices but I just use what will be in the tube when installed. Unless it’s water!

Rule I've always followed and it hasn't failed me yet. Look at the vacuum advance unit on the distributor, turn the distributor in the direction it points to advance. Visualize what that unit is doing in operation, high vacuum pulls the point plate toward the vacuum line to advance timing. That's worked on everything with a vacuum unit, GM, Ford, Mopar, Datsun (remember those), etc, 8s, v8s, six, all the same.

Lots of choices, I usually use 1000 or 1500 grit wet or dry for such things, just because I always have some handy.

I think you'll be fine. Don't recall ever seeing a factory drum/drum setup with a proportioning valve. The only question I have is the possible lack of a residual pressure valve in both ports of the Toyota. Maybe locate an exploded view of the one you're using?