kencombs

Agreed. But I start with a vacuum gauge setting first. That usually gets very near optimum. I don't think I've used a timing light on old engines in 20 years or more.

Good choice IMO. On the Fastenal question, they suspended the service I think in the earlier days of the pandemic. The biggest issue is their two zone system. They have an East and West zone and only ship within those zones. Shipments are never sent inter-zone. So your destination must be in your sending zone. Lots of guys have posted on other sites about using Greyhound. Seems to work but can be slow as it is a space available service with no transit time warranty. And limited coverage for damage.

I've always used the pinion shims to set depth and/or preload only.. Then backlash was adjusted using the threaded adjusters on the carrier bearings. Move both sides an equal amount to move the entire carrier in the desired location.

I don't understand how shoes were arced and still be too big. The first step in arc grinding is measuring the drum. The the shoes are ground to fit that diameter. And lining thickness will make no difference in the fit if done in that fashion. At least that is what I've always understood. Otherwise, arc grinding would be of no use. Explanation anyone? To the OP: when your shoes are installed and adjusted to the minimum, what is the measurement overall compared to the drum ID? Maybe a return trip to the grinder is in order.

from the appearance, it seems the big on just locks the arm to the serrated shaft. The other appears to adjust tension toward the windshield.

Well, a quick look at the code info leads me to believe it has either a wiring fault with the anti-lock brakes or a defective ABS module. That makes sense considering your traction control light is on. The anti-lock system is also used to control wheel spin. There is nothing that I found that connects that code to the ECM in any way. Here is some info:https://www.obd2-code.com/2017/05/c121c-torque-request-signal-denied.html If it were mine, I'd look very carefully at the ABS sensor connections, and if not found maybe search for a cheap module source to try.

According to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, the auto maker cannot require maintenance to be done by them as a condition of warranty coverage. They can however require records and receipts. If a dealer trys that, just contact either a regional rep or corporate and they will get straightened out in a hurry!

A log recording key services is good to have for several reasons. But, from a warranty or buyers view, receipts are much better. A loose leaf notebook with clear plastic page holders is ideal. Each holder could contain all the receipts for a given service. Tires, brakes, oil, filter(s), antifreeze change, brake fluid etc. Use a marker to record the date and mileage of the service directly on the plastic. All in one proof of service and expenses if needed for tax purposes.

I would first suspect late ignition timing, so mixture is still burning when the exhaust valve opens. Or, rich mixture, so rich that some gets burned in the exhaust system. But that would (should) also be accompanied with a really black tailpipe and probably a really eye burning exhaust fume and stink. either should cause noticeable driveability and/or power problems.

My cheap fix for pump pins: If needed, grind the pin short enough that it is recessed on both ends. Doesn't need much. less than 1/16". Insert pin, using a center punch make a series of small indentations around the hole. You can angle the punch toward the pin after the first tap or too. That assures the metal displaced by the punch flows toward the hole. Flip over, do other side. Use a small pin punch to make sure the pin won't move past the punches. Done. Been doing this since way back when rebuilding old pumps was just the normal thing to do.

I assume you meant nbr 6? I've never seen the 2-3 version... could be a candidate for making a pair of cheap headers. one rear outlet, one 2-3 outlet and lots of nickle welding rod!

yes.. Slight omission on my part. It also will try to rotate if the air pressure is too high. so a regulator or blocking it from turning is also needed, I just use about 10-15psi.

Depends on your use. If it will be driven at low to medium highway cruising speed, yes. it will help gas mileage.

That’s not what I said. Just pointing out that that is a weak point. Seldom happens but they can fail due to a weak joint not up to standard and repeated closing shocks. Luckily 230 springs aren’t very strong.

I think some , maybe most, valves are made from two separate pieces of material. The stem and head pieces are joined by a welding process before machining. It is probable that on that particular valve something went wrong at that stage creating a part that was defective at that joint. In the best of cases the joint is not as strong as the rest of the part. OHV engines sometimes suffer from valve to piston hits, and those can cause the valve to fracture at that same place. Extreme, but does illustrate that point of weakness.

JMHO, but sleeve install at the listed price is only for restorers. Drivers can get a brand new dual circuit cylinder for less money. I think I paid 80 bucks for a new Dodge replacement intended for a 70s pickup. Of course I'm changing to suspended pedals so that helped with the decision. I have been driving a long time, long enough to have more than one single master fail when in motion. I'd really like to avoid that happening again. If one chooses the same bore size as the original, there should be no need for any changes to the system other than a little plumbing to get the second line installed. Only if changing the brakes at the wheel end might any pressure balance issues arise.

I just looked at a spare intake and can see no way for coolant to migrate into it. Studs may leak, but there is no connection from those holes to the inside of the manifold. I second Sam's question as to the possibility of fuel pooling.

Eternal optimist you are! That was my best Yoda voice, could you tell?

I also suspect a bad valve. Easy way to confirm, if you have an air compressor: Buy or make an adapter to attach an air hose to a spark plug hole. Insert into #3 and attach an air source. Listen for air escaping at the tail pipe. You can probably use parts from your compression gauge to make the adapter if it's a screw in type. Or you can go all in and buy/rent a leak-down tester. Get the same general info but at greater cost. I like fast, cheap and easy.

I suspect that lack is a function of two things, neither parts+ nor Carquest meet my definition of a parts store, right up (down) there with Autozone and theny our location. Texas is not known as a state with lots of rusty cars/trucks. Neither is OK, my state, either. Locally Oreilly's and Napa both have them or can get them from the regional warehouse same day of ordered before noon, next AM otherwise. Autozone and Carquest have no stock. AZ can't even order them and Carquest is a couple of days out. That said, I always order from the net, always cheaper. That may be the third reason as that is the go to for more and more people, for lots of things.

I doubt it is different as my 56 low side looks the same. It is almost ready for paint! Floor boards Walnut!) are ready for a coat of urethane clear to protect the epoxy finish from the suns rays. First sub-assembly to get to that stage. Well, the cab is in the same state, last coat of primer and final sanding needed. Then the doors, fenders, hood in that order. Then bolt it all together. door go on, the rest After the engine is done and dual exhaust fab built.

True. But there is a little more to it than that. If the solenoid is extended by a manual switch with power applied it can damage the part the pawl engages. That's why manual switches should also do the interruption thing. Not hard to install one correctly. Not an issue when retracting the pawl as it just won't move until forward torque is no longer present. edit: that was poorly worded 'with power applied' sorta sound like I meant electric power, of course I meant engine torque applied.

That's true if it is an Oilite bushing, but not if it is just a plain bronze or brass part. The Oilite has 'pores' that soak up oil.

Sounds like that is the only ground the starter current has back to the battery. Do you have an engine to frame ground? If not add one. edit: JBN and I were typing at the same time and he's faster. I've even seen choke cables burn up due to lack of any other engine to frame ground!

I'm not fan of Simple Green on white metals as it can attack some due to its citric acid content. For instance it will dull aluminun almost instantly. But, with careful attention to soak times it is an effective cleaner of dirty parts. Purple power seems to be non-acid and cleans well. I've noticed no discoloration on aluminum wheels or parts with it. But I've not used in a heated solution.