kencombs

6.2V isn't even battery voltage when charged. So it is clearly too low. A fully charged cell is 2.16volts. 3x that is about 6.4. And voltage must be above battery voltage to charge. IMHO, Either your regulator is bad, or there are some really bad connections somewhere as generators generally work or not. Could your belt be slipping, pulley worn and letting it bottom out or ?

Just be aware that most modern spin-on filters are not nearly as good at catching smaller particles compared to the bypass cartridges. But, there are spin on filters designed for bypass filtering. Most are found on diesels. 80s Mitsubishi Fuso trucks are one source for such. They have two filters, one for the full flow circuit and a second that filters the bypassed oil before returning it to the oil pan.

Common to find different types in aftermarket kits. as long as it fits it will be fine.

IMO, the 1deg difference is the way to go. Narrow the seat from both directions as needed to place the contact in the middle of the valve face. After doing that and a light lap to indicate proper seating all around and the difference is usually gone. The seat is so narrow and the angle so small, the lapping removes almost all of the 'gap'. Using stones as the tool makes it easy as the stone dresser will allow you to change the same stone from 45 to 46 and reverse. Even 45 to 30 if needed. Just do that carefully as it easy to knock the diamond off the dresser if you try to remove too much at once.

Not knowing the actual rear end ratio but guessing 4.10 or lower, 50-55 would be comfortable for you and it.

My understanding is that the semi-spherical washers are to positively locate the manifold with regard to the ports. Without them the manifold can move in two directions a slight amount. edit: Just to clarify, I'm referring to the brass washers used in a few of places, not the funny slotted and tapered steel ones. Those are a type of low torque but effective lock nuts.

I should do that, but don't always. Way back in the late 50s my uncle was a rep for a distributor that provided parts to a lot of accounts in and near KS. One of the lines they carried was Lawnboy repair stuff. He could also get deals on mowers from one of his wholesale accounts so Dad bought a new one. I wore out a couple of engines on that thing! Dad had a 1/2 city block and I mowed a number of lawns besides that. So it ran several day weekly. One of the things he recommended when he brought us the mower new, was to turn off the gas and let the carb empty, every time it was used. Remember that iteration of Lawnboys were all two strokes with diaphragm carbs. Over several years we never had carb problems. The thinking was that gas in the tank was ok, but not in the carb. Probably true back BA, (before alcohol). And when I wore the engine down to really low compression, he got a brand new short block from Evinrude/Johnson for under 25 bucks! If we had had today's ashless two stroke oils they would have lasted longer.

Maybe up the idle speed a tad, and definitely open the idle mixture a quarter turn each, maybe another 1/4 if that helps but doesn't fix it completely. I don't think the off-idle stumble is related to vacuum advance timing, but a degree or two initial may help. The vacuum advance only works after the engine comes up to speed and the vacuum rises. On initial opening it will drop sharply, then increase.

Years ago I had a reverse issue. My light was 6v, really ancient but great quality. So I used a 6v lantern battery to run it. In today's world, I think the correct number of 18650 cells in a home-made tubular holder would be perfect. Rechargeable, but in timing use probably would need that only every 5 years or so. And they don't discharge when not in use.

Yes, our knowledge of oils and all things mechanical has increased in the last 70some years. Thus changing recommendations.

If your pistons are usable the cups should be available at most any good parts store. Dorman and others make generic cups in many sizes.

IMHO, the reason for the ND recommendation way back when was due to the lack of adequate filtration. Think about the ring seating we hear so much about. That comes about through wear. H the high spots of the cast block and rings wear down to improve fit. All those cast particles are in the oil. Detergent keeps them in suspension longer than ND. Any stuff in the oil will circulate until it is finally routed through the bypass filter. And those are the reasons mine is getting plumbed for a full flow filter. And will get a 100 and 500 mile oil change.

I second the oil recommendation. Actually, most any oil is ok. More important is a very short interval for the first oil change. Anything in the engine or 'new' wear particles are flushed out then. Critial on engines like these with bypass filtration as those particles will not be filtered for a while.

It's still unclear to me exactly what the symptoms are. Did it not go into gear or the lever moves properly but it won't move under power? Is it in gear now? Will it roll in gear not running? Lots of unknowns. The others may be right about the clutch, just too many questions open to give decent advice. If the lever is in the correct position for any gear the car should not roll when pushed, engine off clutch out.

I've not done that specific part but on similar items I've used the cheapest masking tape I could find. Backwards of my usual selection of the best tape. The reason was I found a cheap tape that was very thin, and when applied you could vaguely see the outline of the part/letters etc. Just covered the whole thing and cut away the part to be painted with an Xacto knife. Much easier than carefully taping each little feature. Even works in reverse to mask decals on newer cars and tractors.

That was my first thought. Tighten the belt, and press on the slack side while turning it.

Way back in '82 I was finally comfortable with spending the money for my first new car. Actually, wife's first new car, I had my toy vechicles. So, my boss was big on Mercedes and I took a look. Wound up buying a Toyota Cressida, their top of the line at the time. Because, the 3-4 year cost of dealer recommended maintenance on the Merc was more than the payments on the Toy! Never regretted that decision. Even though I traded it in on an 83 when they put the Supra engine and independent rear suspension into the Cressida line. Great cars! 100K + miles and not one cent in unscheduled maintenance. Oil, filters , tires and just drive it. OTOH, my bosses Merc made several trips for fix little stuff. Turbo diesel was bulletproof, but power accessories were another matter.

JMHO, but no sealer should be needed at the pipe to manifold connection on a new installation. If it fits correctly, it won't leak. Double check the flange. Is it flat? If not correct that first. Does the pipe project slightly into the manifold? Or is the pipe flush with the flange? A projecting pipe was original on every old Mopar if my memory is any good. That makes the gasket last longer and reduces stress on it.

Except there have been reports of new replacement parts from somewhere other than the USA being supplied with metric tapping. Examples of engine mounts, water pumps and wheel cylinders have been mentioned. So, one should check when in doubt.

Can you clarify the red statement for me? Does that mean it is in neutral and can't be shifted into any gear? If so, first go over all the linkage attachments to be sure everything is connected. Then check for looseness at all pivot points. Lastly adjust as described by another poster. The low on power may mean that it was not in the expected gear due to misadjustment.

I'm in the 'you're OK' camp too. Added clearance used to be a common setup on competition engines. As long as the pump can maintain adequate flow to build pressure it's a good thing.

THANKS, For translating the pic into something PC friendly. I have no idea why Apple has to be so unfriendly. And, they want to charge for the app for my PC.

I'm pretty sure the manifold he used will allow the stock steering to be used, IF, one offsets the engine to the right a bit. A lot of later Mopars have the the engine offset. I'm not sure why he specifically stated he didn't offset. Best way to do it IMHO. Edit: That manifold can be from any A body of the 63-66 years with a V8, not just power steering. Hard to find though, and if one is performance minded it is sort of restrictive. But, the 65 Dart I once owned still ran really good even with that restriction.

Try NiCop, flares great, as well as bending much easier than steel.

Take the pump apart and see what's wrong. Could be one of the check valves stuck due to sitting so long. If the diaphragm isn't cracked it may be repairable with no parts.