kencombs

According to the diagram above, it only has one terminal with three wire on it. No personal knowledge but that's how it looks to me.

I bought a cooling system pressure tester. HF but works good. Plug the overflow, and hose outlets, put the adapter on the cap, pump up to 2-4lbs and submerge in water. Hope for no bubbles. Works on the car too to test for core plugs, gaskets etc.

Close clearances require oil thinner than most use in old cars, IMO. But, for years the rule of thumb was one thou per inch of journal diameter. Realistically I shoot for .0015 to .0025 for rods, maybe up to .0035 for mains. I would only go tighter on mains if the block had been line honed by a good shop. An extra thou clearance is sometimes needed to prevent binding due to a little misalignment. I've seen cranks that wouldn't turn with all the caps tightened, but when all but one was loose Plasti-guage normally. There used to be a source for oil pump 'overhaul' kits, spacer and longer gears to provide higher volume. Used them in old Y-block Fords that had oiling issues. Covered up the oil pressure loss by just pumping enough to build pressure. I know you've all seen engines with really low idle pressure but OK at speed. Result of bearings, especially mains, at the upper end (or over) or the spec. edit to add: If you want to get deep on the subject look up 'hydrodynamic lubrication' . The theory there helps with understanding viscosity and bearing clearances. Once started there should never be any metal to metal contact because of that phenomenon.

We had a 13 hour outage, ended about 4 hours ago. Lots of broken poles, downed lines etc. City just finished a big tree trimming contract or it would have been much worse. 80-90MPH straight wind foran hour or so as the system passed.

Remember the first rule of troubleshooting performance issues: Most carb problems are ignition related. I'd first rule out points, cap and condenser. Then fuel pressure and flow to the carb. Lastly deal with the carb if still needed.

I don't think you will find a pumpkin tha fits the housing in a ratio that high. time to measure the old unit and go salvage shopping for a complete rear axle. What engine and trans are you running that requires such a ratio? Just curious.

If you can post a pic of the front of the engine w/o the pulley, then a pic of the backside of the pulley, maybe that will trigger some ideas. Is the only change you've made the timing cover and pulley?

Matching engine and trans is the way to go, IMHO. Furthermore, a Mopar flat six is by far the easiest. Transmission fitment was unique to each of the big 3 back then. Even GM had different models for there products. Now if you are up for lots of mods to improve HP, or go auto then the sky's the limit. Lots of potential donors. Just not my cup of tea right now. Good cores are out there and not too expensive. For instance I have a complete engine / trans from my project but way to far South of you to be of interest. Lots of them should be around from projects not going the stock direction. Don't overlook combines, forklifts, aircraft tugs and old farm trucks as potential donors. These little workhorses were used everywhere!

The tool I use for most crimps is an ancient T&B that looks like the Klein 1006 on the page you linked. I have a couple of them, one in my big box with other electrical stuff and one on my roll around work table. Works for me. One just has to remember which jaw gets the open side of the terminal, if using folded barrel terminals.

Well, after all that I find that my Hollander doesn't cover pre-50 very well. But, in a few places that I found, all the bearings it did cover were the same 47-56. Maybe the issue showing up in this is some superceded part numbers over the years.

If you can post the actual part (axle, not assembly but actual axle shaft, bearing etc). and numbers you are questioning maybe I can find something in my old Hollander. It covers late 40s/mid 50s so there might be some info there.

I've cut 1" aluminum with my table saw. That's how I cut my 2bbl carb adapter. A couple of cuts would get me through 2" stock if needed. Just used a good .125 kerf triple chip grind blade normally used for solid surface cabinet top material. Wax the blade first, slow feed and solid hold/clamp the stock. Setting up for a tapered cut is a normal part of woodworking so no issue there, after determining the needed angle. A miter saw would work to but would require some supports, clamps to hold the stock rigidly.

And, you can open up the plug gap to take advantage of the potential higher voltage. The voltage will never be higher than the level needed to jumg that gap. So a closer gap will result in a shorter spark, lower voltage and heat/energy to light the mixture.

Just lay a straight edge on the pan, front to back centered on the bolt holes. It should touch the entire length. If not, 'adjust' the pan'. I use a piece of steel on the bottom and gentle hits with a small hammer on the top until each one is even with the pan's seating surface. that , I've used different things for the backup steel over the years, it just needs to fit into the pan seating surface from the bottom, not riding on the rolled edge. Best fit is a piece of strap whose width is a good fit, maybe a couple of inches long. Tack weld that to a heavier piece to provide mass if you don't have a thick piec.

To expand a little on that, the 1.0 and 1.25 numbers are the thread pitch. Metric is expressed in the length of one turn in mm of the thread, where SAE is expressed as the number of threads per inch.

Not that I'm recommending this to others, but it's worked for me. Chain over the frame, under the jack.

Are the six the same ID and OD, just different widths? That's usually the case. If you don't have the yoke off you'll have to wait for someone that knows. A small tip: Once you find the SKF PN, search online by number. I found a 'brand x' for my crank pulley hub for less than half of the 'real thing' price.

The pins don't need to be removed. They go thru the pan gasket and into the end gasket. And just get pushed all the way down when it's bolted down. That said, I've never used pins, just a bit of sealer to hold it aligned. Permatex#2 in the old days, 'The Right Stuff' now. But, the sealer needs to be partially set before installing, especially in the car, or it could slip around.

Mass produced springs are probably not very consistent in force needed to extend. And it only takes very little to cause the 'problem' you've observed.

What was the usage (model/year) of that type GM coil? curious

I would suggest a new coil, just because. If you're using points, a coil from a Mopar of 12v vintage along with a resistor and start bypass wiring would be best. Yes, one can get a coil designed to run on 12v, and no they don't have an internal resister (with very few exceptions from the 50s) but are wound with wire that provides the desired resistance. But, if you do that the starting voltage will be lower than a coil intended to be used with a resistor. The resistor goes in the switch to coil feed wire. Edit to add: I'll change my recommendation for coil and resistor. Use 50/60s GM as they are more readily available and work fine. And back in the day I saw many more Mopar resistors fail than other brands. Don't know why, just my experience.

If those are the same as my 56, and I think they are, they are just a flat piece of metal with a couple of bends/flanges and holes. Cut to size, bend the edges with a sheet metal break and cut/drill holes. Probably easier and cheaper to fab locally rather than ordering, IF one could find a source, I haven't seen one. I have one that is sort of beat up that will get copied in some 18ga stainless. Just because I have stainless that I salvaged from a soft serve ice cream machine years ago. But, to do that easily, one needs a pattern or original to copy.

The timing of their motion is totally dependent on the force needed to move shoe. The pressure in both will be the same, laws of hydraulics. And that pressure is determined by resistance to movement. Just a little drag from rubbing on the backing plate, difference in springs etc, will change the timing. But as soon as one touches the drum, the other will move. IMO, it would be highly unlikely to see both move beginning at the same time and continue at the same rate. Just to many variables in the parts. I'd just make sure the piston and bore is in good condition and assemble the brakes.

Was the relief valve removed and cleaned, valve and bore, during the rebuild? If so shouldn't be sticking unless there is a burr or some fault on the bore or valve. Or maybe a faulty spring, broken and coils binding.

Is it fluctuating with speed? Temp, other changes in operation? Quick moves or slow cycling? Electric gauge? Maybe sending unit changing value as temp builds? Sealer on the threads messing with the connection? Wild guesses.