chrysler1941

The protruding lens is supposed to be red. ?

I would not turn a stuck engine by crank bolt. You can only turn clockwise and can snap. Better at flywheel starrer ring. Larger diameter, less effort.

There are so many opinions about engine oil. It's almost a religion. ? A subject I wont get into. I will only comment regarding my engine. Choosing the right oil is all about engine wear during cold start and warm up. My Chrysler flathead was designed with tolerance for SAE 30W. I will never use multi grade oils. Simple reason, a 15-40 is 15 when cold and changes to 40 when warm. When cold cranking, 15W is half of what's needed and will not lubricate enough. When warm it's 40 and too thick. It will show nice pressure reading, but how's the engine doing? When hot all, oils are the same. Then there's the floating pick up tube. It has a purpose I will not get into. There is an interesting 33 page documentation about oil lubrication in engines. It's mostly for flat tappet OHV engines but there is some surprising info. You can download it here. Selection of the right oil for flat tappet engines.pdf

My carb is no different than yours and have no hesitation, so don't live with it.? How about fuel delivery? At these speeds your engine is thirsty. Could be carb float height, clogged passages, jets. Fuel line, Tank. Pump, filter, swollen rubber hose. If carb is ok, try adding an electric fuel pump as a test. Not any but one with max pressure 4.5 PSI like Airtex E8902

Yes I had one of those on my old battery. Like yours, my fell of after a while. Had to glue the second one on. I just love the look of OEM pre war battery

What oil are you running?

It's a rare model. Nice find. Is it an 8? 4 hubs caps will be difficult to find. Any PDF literature you need, let me know.

Is it a full flow system? If bypass, it's too high. It could damage the gauge. Have you checked your oil pressure relief valve? Uncle Tech says 40-45 it should open You may have wrong spring

Yes very odd. Besides Forklift, Golf carts also use these.

This is the correct way. I used a heat sleeve. Rock Auto has them https://northrock.com.sg/images/products/20895.jpg

Is that a fork lift battery ?

Briggs ?

Some years ago my clutch was stuck after long moist winter. Back and forth, shocking it. Towed by another car, pedal in and out, nothing....took lower clutch pan off and pried it loose. It worked perfectly after.

So I got these from a seller on ebay. These are reproductions for faux Optima topper. I'll have to modify to fit threaded fill. I'll probably cut off top of standard caps and glue to these. To be continued

I don't have the distributor but Auto Lite shows IAP·4102C·for 1949/50 Earlier they used the common IGS·41XX/42XX series https://www.ebay.com/itm/ENGINE-DISTRIBUTOR-1949-1950-DeSoto-Auto-Lite-New-old-Stock-1GC-4805-RARE-/264902467229

@Plymouthy Adams I want to apologize, I was to quick and didn't take time to download the upside down photo, which clearly is from a official Plymouth manual. Difficult to read but it states the 7 position. This must have been done sometimes in the 1950s as there is no mention of it in earlier manuals. I wanted proof and you delivered. ☺️ I do hope moderator will not lock this thread. Thank you.

Desoto Please find attached PDF Pages from DeSoto Shop Manual.pdf

Greg g you are 100% correct. Absolut no gain on flatheads except more smoke and waste of money That's why I use it for something else as mentioned earlier. And it's a good conversation subject at rallies.

I found out why the changed the distributor although they don't say why the rotated it so vacuum chamber is upwards. Here is a description: On the late type distributor the plate and contacts do not rotate about the cam as on the earlier type, but the timing is changed by the plate movement to give the same effect. The maximum advance is limited by a stop which is a part of the vacuum chamber linkage Any ideas ?

Not denial. I only said that Chrysler Corporation's shop manuals never talked about 7 position so it's not official. If someone printed that in some other manual, that is another story. I'm sticking to official printing. They produced the cars, they know best ? Yeah mine too

I have one in my other car. I use kerosene. Lowers the octane and slows burning. Much better suited for flatheads.

And I have a book where it says the moon made of green cheese.

I would really like to see where it's printed. No future owners will have problems with my car, as 7 it's not covered in manuals related to the model. Author has 3 projects and only one is post war ? Conclusion, all 3 grumpy old men are right. 7 o'clock position was not mentioned until 1949/50 probably to streamline diagnostic procedure as you both mention. Maybe flipped distributor is not a correct word. Rotate? Turned? Notice vacuum chamber. See attached picture of before 49 and after. Why ?

These pumpkins are different. As far as I know, no one makes parts for them.

From the manual 12. REMOVAL OF MASTER CYLINDER. - Disconnect the brake line tubes at the master cylinder. Disconnect brake pedal from master cylinder. Remove the bolts which attach master cylinder to chassis and lift out the master cylinder assembly.