chrysler1941

Wow beautiful car. Next time you're in Copenhagen let me know. Or Rømø if you're going. Today it's bank holiday and we're off, but it's pouring down as usual and only 12°. No summer yet. ?

I just want to add these copper gaskets kits as Sniper mentioned are not soft (annealed) enough. At least the kits I have used. I've been using aluminum instead with better luck.

Western Swing ! Great taste. I guess The Maddox Brothers and Rose are not unknown to you

I wish we had mountains........great pictures.

You had since what 2017 and still in box? ? LOL 1950 Special Deluxe sketch is perfect but I'll hide switch under pedal floor. For yellow and green I'll get a Reed Switch. These are small, almost same dimension, 5mm as wiring, and can be hidden in shrink tube. But they have a current limitation, therefore all 3 bulbs swapped with LED. Or use a relay with bulbs. A small neodymium with center hole on rod. https://www.ebay.com/itm/381589116888?hash=item58d87bd7d8:g:q8MAAOSwJblW~8RZ

The problem with modern instruments, digital and earlier analog is undersized input filtering for the high tension spikes occurring at ignition coils with points and especially 6 volt models. Not to bore you with details but these instruments cannot read pulses because they overwhelmed with signals. They have a hard time distinguishing between points opening and closing pulses and the charge/discharge of HT coil's harmonic spikes. Older analog Dwell/RPM meters had large filters. If you look inside one, it's mostly a huge condenser and a specified coil. This is a Low-pass filter. It is possible to use modern instruments and digital tach readers designed for 5v square pulses with additional filtering. Alternative (and easier) using a Schmitt trigger or a solid state relay circuit as filters. These are available cheap ($2-5) on eBay.

I think I need one of those.....?

How are you connecting it for dwell reading?

Not sure if it's me or car's vibrating most Correct, some butt and flag connectors where soldered but after crimping. This was done to allow higher current draw by enlarging surface contact where wire meets connector. This practice is not done any more. Did I mention no vehicle manufacture only solder terminals? LOL

Soldering is sublime on any terminals with no movement/vibrations. Soldering terminals in vehicles, ships, train, planes etc is never done due to vibrations. For a hobby car, it's probably ok. Personally, only crimp with correct tools.

Belly is not a big problem, but legs are. being 6'6" left knee is always cramped between steering wheel and driver door. I'm so happy for my flipper cranks. Interesting to read about your non Ethanol availability. Here in Scandinavia we use another Octane rating 92, 95E, 98, 99. The E is for Ethanol. Basically all of them are crap fuel for modern injected engines. The Chrysler has no problems with any of these, being fuel is cooled enough before it reaches carb. But my other non Mopar car needs 10-20% Kerosene mixed with fuel to lower octane and raise boiling point. If no kerosene/diesel is mixed, electric fuel pump is needed to avoid vapor lock. Stop corrosion on battery terminals with NCP-2 chemical pads. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NAPA-NCP-2-BATTERY-TERMINAL-PROTECTORS-corrosion-preventative-cable-ring-cleaner-/402103704237

Group # 17-11-7 ?

Stumbled at your 2 photos. Amazing how elegant design these MoPar had back then. The black one with fitted with correct wheels brings it's stylish Art Deco design flow with harmony. Sorry I'm not so good with words The Marron the small fat wheels looks like a girl lifting her skirt while tip toing across a puddle.

Beautiful car Let's see more photos, engine and front I suppose it has a M5/M6. How weird it must be to shift gear with left hand, I would probably crunch all the gears

If you mean the original filter, it's a sediment type. And it works.

No boots on mine. LOL yes you get some respect after being zapped a couple of time pulling throttle linkage. But it's healthy.

There are many tools as stated, but also many types of connectors. The one shown in photo is the worst. Cheap ,fragile construction and can easily fall off. I never use them. I use these fold overs. These tabs dig into insolation and locks. Also shown one of the many tools and after crimping. But that's my opinion

Basically your are connecting pilot to outer indicators. If outer work as OP states, pilot will flash with them. No need for a third pong.

X is power source L is load P for indicator lamp If outside indicators work, connect P to L You really don't need a 3 pong. The idea inside flashes opposite outside

Nope

Exactly. Kerosene or electric fuel pump. Lower the octane or force fill bowl preventing evaporation.

When I got my 1941 Chrysler Royal Coupe 3W some 16 years ago, it was my third Mopar. I had no preferences at the time other than: pre-war, 2 door, Not a Ford a model you never find a similar at rallies. I fell for the submarine look and the ridiculous rear

Well one terminal suppose to be bit thicker with a 7/16 nut and other 3/8" nut. Anyway here's a drawing showing A and F and wiring.

Never heard of polarizing regulator. You polarize generator for correct polarization (minus) at A terminal if generator has been dismantled. No need to but no harm if done again. If generator is connected to regulator, it can be done on regulator.

Theoretical and far fetched, if these 2 resistor that magnetize the field coil for correct polarity are burned, Build in starter relay coil could substitute this, but .........I recon it was someone in a hurry Correct, connecting to A, starter will not engage while engine running. Assuming your car is still positive grounded, starter button switched minus to starter relay (not solenoid). Other side of relay is connected to A on Gen and acts as a ground to energize solenoid for start. When engine is running and charging, A becomes hot (minus) . Minus on both sides of starter relay will disable it. Chrysler where smart.