wallytoo

i used a unit for an 80s jeep wagoneer. modified the arm by cutting it in the middle, using a paint can bail, straightened, and soldered between the two ends of the arm. it has worked excellent for over 10 years now.

when i took my blown 237 apart, i compared the sump/pickup and tubing with the parts from the 251. they were identical. so i used the parts from the 237 because they were original to the truck. the pan came from the 237, because the rear sump position of the 251 pan wouldn't clear the axle. the pan is not reversible.

it’s easy to do if needed, but a front sump pan is required. everything else works with either type.

you might need to swap the oil pan; in the pilot house series, the pan with the sump to the rear doesn’t work without modification - hits the axle. maybe it works on the earlier trucks like yours, though?

i guess i’m not tossing the oil pump that came with the 251 (original mopar). used the original mopar pump from the blown 237 when i installed the 251 into my b-1-f.

i'd leave the gearing alone, and just do what needs to be done to the engine to bring it to specification (for stock). my 1.5-ton b-1-fa easily hauls 4 tons in the bed, and with the same high-range gearing i can do 50 comfortably. i don't know that i'd be able to maintain 55 mph on hills with a load on, or especially towing, but i wouldn't be afraid to put the load on and go slower. i do have a 2-speed rear, which is a real advantage, as it allows for 8 different forward speeds, rather than 4 speeds. mine also has the booster brake system, with the remote midland vacuum cylinder. the brakes are excellent. if you are going to be towing a backhoe, you'll want to make sure your brakes are excellent, too. still operating with the 4 standard drums, no disc brake conversion (and the single-chamber MC). i've hauled a lot of stuff in my truck since 2007 when i purchased it, including 16' 8x8 bridge panels (3 at once), ice blocks (up to 4 tons), cordwood (1.5 cords), manure (2 tons), and hay (90 bales), maple sap (300 gallons), etc. use it and enjoy it.

there is no difference between the 237 head and the 251 head, and i believe the 265 is the same. same for the oil pump, distributor, and cam. i don’t know for sure on the valves; it’s possible all 265s had sodium-filled exhaust valves. 4500 rpm is a lot to ask out of these long-stroke flatheads.

well, what is it that doesn't match "the numbers that you have read"?

probably could have routed the tube "straight" into the filter, and then used the elbow at the outlet of the filter to enter the pump, which eliminates one "bend" in the tubing. still would be away from the d-shaft and drum.

yeah, those cam teeth look pretty ugly. sucks to have to pull it, but probably the correct action.

https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/master-cylinder-dodge-truck-plymouth-truck-fargo-truck-up-to-1-ton-1930-1958-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-1930-1936-1 at $125.

i bought a new MC from Roberts Motor Parts. $185 plus core charge. fit perfect, works perfect. it's the larger bore, because it's for a 1.5-ton with a booster, but i'm happy with the price, function, and fit. no more leaks, and the brakes work.

on the model 61 in my truck, no logo, and color is the same as the body of the heater.

timing for the truck 251, with no vacuum advance, only mechanical, is 2* after TDC, not before TDC. when i recently installed a 251 into my 1.5 ton to replace the blown 237, i initially set the timing at 2* before TDC. started decent, idled excellent, and had good power on flat ground, but would have no power on hills. it also would miss, and get hot pulling those hills. when i checked the timing, i discovered my mistake, and set it to 2* after TDC. runs cooler, and has power for the hills.

could be. are you running a 251? or something else? details like that will help those of us who aren’t at your truck. if it is a 251, what do you have the timing set to?

transmission mounts? again, as i noted earlier, the larger trucks do not have a rubber mount at the bellhousing/frame interface. it is a solid steel connection. the only rubber is at the front of the motor, where it mounts to the front crossmember. no rubber to the rear of that, at all. surprisingly little vibration (none noticeable) with this setup. very long rear driveshaft for my "152".

oh, you have a c-series. not used to seeing those on the forum yet. clearly different mounting, and perhaps why nobody has answered - a lot of us are b-series and earlier owners.

do the smaller trucks have rubber rear mounts? unlike this for my 1.5-ton? and these are actually bellhousing mounts, as the rear/middle of the motor has no mounts.

the distance from the front output of the transfer case to the front axle doesn't look too short, especially if for part-time 4wd. the rear shaft on my cj-5 is shorter and steeper.

plug is right at the top. and, in looking through some of my parts, i found the plug this morning and installed it, along with the lower bellhousing covers. all closed up - no mice this year.

missing the plug at the top of the bellhousing, under the toe boards. if i close that, they can’t get in. until then, open it is.

for the leak, check the dipstick tube mount on the side of the pan. when it leaks, the oil ends up at the drain plug.

this year, i’m running without the clutch cover, mostly to see if i can prevent mice from nesting in there (without the bottom, there’s nowhere for the nest to sit).

on my gasket from roberts, i installed using a light coating of blue rtv around the entire glass/rubber interface. no leaks in over 12 years.

that was probably back when i first bought it, in 2007. in person, it is a bit rough; fine by me, as i use it year round here in northern new england.