TodFitch

Google maps puts the center of Elko, GA at 32.330833°N and Tijuana centered at 32.533489°N which, if my calculations are correct, means that Elko is 13.98 miles south of Tijuana so your "straight WEST" might be a little off. On the other hand, Rosarita is pretty close to due west of Elko and is a much nicer place that Tijuana. At least it was the last time I was in that area many, many years ago.

And sometimes the "thief" is unaware that the car is equipped with LoJack: http://www.vvdailypress.com/news/vehicle-33970-foiled-hesperia.html

I didn't know that they had a column selector back then. I know the '56 my family once had was equipped with push buttons and there was a block out plate on the dash of the '63 manual transmission Plymouth for push buttons. I assumed they had push buttons from the beginning of automatic transmissions on Plymouth.

I'd give you the bolt numbers if the '38-'48 parts book had them, but I don't see them there. In '33 they used studs instead of bolts: 2 each "long stud" part 112572 which is a 3⁄8-16-24x1 5⁄8 Plain steel stud 1 each "short stud" part 103196 which is a 3⁄8-16-24x1 Plain steel stud So I guess some 3/8-16 bolds with a quarter inch or so less length than the studs would match up pretty well.

Sleeved with stainless and they are full of gunk? At the least, that sounds like there are contaminants in the system that should be flushed out. Old fashioned steel brake lines rust from the inside out as DOT 3 (and the pre-DOT rated brake fluid) absorb moisture. If at all possible I'd suggest replacing all the tubing and hoses in addition to cleaning out the wheel cylinders. You'd really rather not have a thin spot on the steel piping give way under heavy braking conditions...

Points provide a path to ground when closed and an open circuit when open. So use a test lamp or ohmmeter to check to see if you have a good ground when points are closed and no ground when points open. If you don't have a good ground then look at the path between the points and the distributor body to see that everything is well secured. If you always have a ground, check for shorting on the hot side of the points. Looking at your photos I am wondering if the plate the points mount on is well grounded to the body. The whole plate moves based on the vacuum advance and that makes grounding it problematical. Typically there is a flexible pig tail between that plate and the distributor body some place to assure a good ground and I don't see it in your photos.

Fuel pump has check valves in it to prevent reverse flow, so you'll have to blow in to the line between the fuel pump and the tank. Just remove the flex hose from the frame to the pump and blow into that.

Good looking and solid car. I'd have that wiring harness out of there and replaced with something safe pretty quickly if it were my car. But from previous posts I think you have that high on your list.

I had my brake cylinders sleeved in brass by Joe at Sierra Automotive. I'll never have to worry about them developing rust pits again. Only problem is they came back looking so great that it seemed like I should frame them and hang them on the wall instead of burying them inside the car where no one can see them. Sierra Specialty Automotive 3494 Chandler Rd. Quincy, CA 95971 Telephone: +1.530.283.1886 Fax: +1.530.283.4845 email: joe@brakecylinder.com http://www.brakecylinder.com/

Original was in a Denver paper and has been floating around "the Internets" for a couple of days now. You neglected to mention that one of his "sons", the one named "Chopper" is actually a cat.

Check out part P233 at http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/car_parts.asp?Action=search&c=Cars+%2D+Electrical+%26+Related+Parts Has one part number for '37-48 car sending units so that might not be a good listing as the pre-war cars typically had the 5 screw SAE mounting flange like yours and the later cars had, I think, a flange with no holes and a lock ring. Could be wrong about the later cars....

Are you referring to the "Steering shaft oil seal assembly"? http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group19#19-19-35

You might be able to use a layer or two of friction tape for that anti-squeak material. Friction tape is basically just tar impregnated cloth. It is available in the electrical supply section of any better home center or hardware store.

Looks like a '39 Plymouth to me. May 20th is also the date for the "Friendship Day" hosted by the Mid-Peninsula Old Time Auto Club in Redwood City. Last couple of years this show has been a little bit of a disappointment but at one time it was one of the largest in the Bay Area. Maybe with the new venue by the bay in Redwood City it will recover some past glory. Your link also had information about a tour preceding the concours on the 19th. Also on the 19th is the Maxwell Classic Car Show. I haven't been to that one but I have heard reasonably good things about it.

If by "it" you mean the crankcase oil, I agree. "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" does a better job of removing combustion byproducts from the crankcase and keeping the oil clean than a road draft tube. The fact that "positive crankcase ventilation" (not "pollution control valve") also happens to clean up the major source of smog forming emissions from an otherwise "uncontrolled" engine is a happy side effect. The first PCV systems showed up on high end cars in the late 1920s. But since a road draft tube was much cheaper and deemed adequate Detroit did not install them on most vehicles. Exceptions being things like military vehicles where the other side effect of closing off low openings in the engine thus allowing fording of deeper rivers was sufficient reason. If you dig back into the forum archives you'll find some simple ways of adding PCV systems to the Mopar L-6 engines. Here is one: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=13268#post110943

They went back and forth: The first independent front suspension on a Plymouth was in 1934 and it had a drag link to an idler arm in the center with equal length tie rods from there. If you look at the part numbers the left and right tie rods with ends have separate numbers but the tie rod body without ends has the same number for left and right.

I've used J-11 for years in my '33. Looking at http://www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/framesets/maintframeset.html it seems that the "normal" plug would be a J-8 while a J12 would be a "hot" one. Seems like it ought to work. Be advised that a number of people on this forum have expressed reservations about Champion spark plugs. The starter should be polarity insensitive as is any DC motor that uses a field coil rather than permanent magnets for the field: The direction of rotation is dependent on the relationship of the wiring between the field coils and the armature.

What? No water-wetter & water pump lubricant additive to your cooling system? Epsom salt for your battery? You're not trying hard enough to spend money and damage your car....

Don't really know about a crush sleeve: The only rear axle pinion gear I've worked on is on my '33 and it does not have one. I wasn't far sighted enough to pin prick the parts before I disassembled them either. Glad to hear my cross reference is correct for that entry.

Not sure that is true when it comes to cars and car parts. Seems like it'd cost a whole lot more to build a car paying parts department prices than to get the car off the show room floor. As much as I'd hate to see a car parted out, I suspect that if the object is to maximize the money that would be the way to go. Of course it will take a fair amount of time and effort to sell all the parts and that might also be a consideration.

If they were running a plant 3 shifts 24/7 then there probably was more demand than they could supply for. If I were running that business at that time I'd raise prices too. Agree that it is "simple arithmetic". Actually not quite that simple, maximizing profits based on a empirically determined and time changing supply and demand curve is not easy but that is what any business tries to do. Businesses are, after all, in the business of making money. For something like gas the demand is short term inelastic (you have the car you have, you live where you live, you work where you work and in most of the US the only option is driving) so raising the price definitely brings in more money short term. Longer term people can move or buy more efficient cars, etc. But amazingly few people think about future gas prices when looking at a car or house. Those can seem like "extra cost" considerations if they are considered at all. I've spent extra for a house that is within walking or bicycling distance of nearly any company I'm likely to work at. I spent a little extra for a car that averages 45 MPG for those times that I'm not walking or bicycling. The gas hog in the garage is the Plymouth which can be parked if I don't feel like paying for gas for it. Basically I changed my life style about 10 years ago in anticipation of the $5/gal gas I expected to occur by 2007 or 2008. I was wrong on my bet, but I'm still prepared for it when it happens. And along the way I ended up with a house that did not lose as much value as others when the real estate bubble popped (location, location, location) and a car that has cost less per mile on its "total cost of ownership" than average. Pay your money and make your choice....

Sounds like you have the general procedure correct. Don't know about the felt washer thing but you are right about that number being a pinion shaft seal. See: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#663602

I think he is referring to a 59" wide rear axle. Jeep Cherokees came in two versions: The older big one from 1974-83 and the smaller unit body one from 1984-90 something. Not sure which rear end he has, it looks too big for the later small unit body Cherokee, so maybe it is the older version from the 70's or early '80s.

Interesting to note the brake pedal travel on what I assume is a properly adjusted and maintained car....

Wow! That is the best old Plymouth video I've ever seen.