TodFitch

Looks like the same issue people run into when putting a later engine into a '33 or '34 Plymouth: The '35 and up blocks with the full length water jacket are a little wider and to account for that the factory redesigned the bell housing mount for the start to move it a little further down and out. On the swap of a later engine into the '33 and '34 Plymouth a fairly standard work around is to grind the side of the starter. That always seemed a bit dodgy to me but everyone I've talked to who has done it says it works okay. The other alternative is to machine the bell housing and/or make up an adaptor that moves the starter out and down a little.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=30110

That should work as long as you regulate the pressure down to something the gauge is designed for like 40 PSI. Wish I'd known about that pilot light fitting years ago when I was trying to replace an after market oil pressure gauge with the Dodge original on my '63. I ended up with a plumber's nightmare under the dash getting something that would go into the gauge on one end and on to the tubing on the other. And for years after there would occasionally be a small drop of oil that would escape that Rube Goldberg setup...

I just got one the other week from my "local better auto supply". They had it on the shelf with no need to order from the warehouse. Only caution though: From the parts book there appears to be a couple of different numbers depending on the year and/or fuel pump. So you might want to take the float bowl or old gasket in to verify you are getting the correct size. http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group14#14-80-05 Not sure that having them on the shelf at an American auto parts store will help for you in the UK though Robin... Edit: Oops. Answered wrong question. Don't know about carburetor float bowl gaskets...

I guess this is one solution:

Maybe. Or maybe it just wasn't well established enough so those people had it on their calendar as a "must go" event. There is an event in San Jose in September only open to vehicles "as they could have existed in 1945 or earlier" which gets 500 or more vehicles every year. There may be a lot of more people with newer or modified vehicles than there are of stock appearing older cars, but that is not to say there aren't enough of the older ones to make a successful event. In this particular case there are other established events in the same driving area that means it takes a while (years) for people to become aware of the new event and decide they'd rather go to the new one instead. And there are events somewhere nearly every weekend May through September that a new event will compete with, so you can't just change weekends to make it work. The least risky way is to get a cheap venue and only expect a few cars during the first years. Make it the best event you can and as it grows go for the bigger and more expensive venue. My reading of the cancellation notice was that the venue cost was too high for the number of vehicles they had pulled in the past. So maybe the problem is they made it too nice and did not have the resources or backing to run the losses until it got a reputation established.

For that you don't need to convert to 12v, simply fix the original back to factory condition.

Actually I work in Sunnyvale... If you come down Mathilda you drive right by my office on your way to Cupertino. I'll make a note to myself to drive on Friday and we can meet somewhere for lunch.

Worse comes to worse and you're willing to pay the tariff, I bet that Rare Parts in Stockton, Calif. will have them.

What year? (There are some slight variations from one era to the next.) I have a clean pump of the more modern (40s or 50s design) that I don't need so it is yours if you want it. If I recall correctly, you work not too far from where I am... We can make an arrangement for you to pick it up.

Or you can go nuts trying to have it reasonably accurate. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/fuelsender2.html

I once tried using some hollow brass rivets soldered to the end of the wire to make new lamp socket contacts. It worked. But if appearance is not an issue (under the dash, etc.) then a good soldered splice to a wire connected to a real lamp contact is a very good option.

Rich, I appreciate what you've posted and understand where you are coming from. I am not an expert either and have the parts books that I have (wouldn't mind more and I keep my eyes open for them). One of my side activities is the parts database on my web site. There are undoubtedly many, many errors in it. But I'd like to minimize new ones and correct old ones. So when I come across information that seems good to add, like the distributor bushings mentioned in this thread, I want to make sure that I've got the correct Chrysler part number on the cross reference. And I can get quite pedantic about it. I think I stepped on fatFreddie's toes early in this thread when I posted about the lack of NAPA stores in Germany. I did put a smiley on it but that was not apparently enough of a indication that gentle humor was indicated. -Tod

I wasn't trying to make wise cracks. I was trying to make sure I had accurate information before publishing something that was wrong. When I come across an apparent discrepancy I ask about it to make sure I understand the situation.

Your reference would indicate that the '41-'48 should use the same bearing as the others but the parts book does not. '36-'48 parts book shows '36-'48 lower bearing use 643906. Upper bearing for '36-'40 is the same 643906 but the '41-'48 are shown using part 871752. NAPA Online shows the 643906 still crossing to Echlin 4270 but don't show a cross for 871752. Anyone have a cross for the 871752?

Now he just needs to find a NAPA in Germany.

If you have an after market tank or fuel cell it might have a SAE fuel sender 5 screw mount for the sending unit which is very standard for the universal senders. A "one wire" sender has only one wire connected to it from the dash unit. It relies on chassis ground for the other part of the circuit. You may have to rig a ground wire from the sending unit to a good chassis ground to have it work correctly. To test the dash unit, pick up some resistors with values close to that needed for reading full and for reading empty. Connect the resistors one at a time between the terminal on the dash unit and ground. See what the dash unit reads. I made up a little box with a number of different resistors in it and a switch to select which one was connected to allow me to easily test my dash unit. I'd loan it to you but it is setup for my '33 which uses a resistance range that hasn't been used on any car that I know of after about '35 or '36.

For what it is worth, the casting part number on the side of the transmission (looks like 651358 to me in the photo) would be from the 1934-36 time frame for its first use. I wouldn't be too surprised if a light truck would have used that up into the '40s too.

I agree with Young Ed on both points. I think they could have probably stamped out a roof panel big enough for a coupe but couldn't for a sedan and the mindset just wasn't there. That said, Chrysler usually shipped their cars to England completely knocked down and for many models and years the sourced a local interior and top for the cars assembled there. For that reason the '33 Chrysler Kew Six Saloon (engineering code PCX known in the US as a '33 Plymouth Six sedan) had a folding sun roof arrangement that was never done in the US. For the US style roof construction for that era but not necessarily for the '30 see: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/roof

Seems very likely that a single filament bulb would be non-indexed. I'd have to check my old miniature lamp guide but I'd be surprised to find an indexed single filament bulb as there is no reason for it to exist: The indexing was to assure the filaments (plural) were in the correct position.

I just realized that I have some listings for "north of the border" and will try to get around to adding them to my serial number decoder as time permits. In the meantime I've added the one range of numbers that contains your serial number. Now my decoder at http://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin will return: Serial Number 96056320 Found in range 96044601 to 96057734 Serial 11720 of 13134 Year 1952 Make Plymouth Model Name Special DeLuxe or Cranbrook Model Code P23C Plant Windsor Engine 6 cylinder L-head Wheelbase 118 1/2 inches The serial number list I pull this from lists the engineering code as P23-2 but the other serial number list that I originally got the US numbers from lists it as P23C. Not sure what is up with that difference between two official Chrysler serial number lists...

Is it possible the crank gear was pressed on the wrong way and the mark is against the engine instead of out where it can be seen? (Not sure it can be put on that way but maybe it is possible...)

Heck, Google maps shows it's only 260 miles between Cypress, TX and De Leon, TX. Just a little farther than Hershey, PA is from Syracuse, NY. Reminds me of my freshman year in college in Upstate NY. All the people from the NYC/Long Island/Connecticut/NJ areas were making plans for getting together during the Christmas break. When I and a fellow from Houston, TX were asked if we planned on getting together we looked at them like they were nuts. Its a long way from Houston, TX to Tucson, AZ and most of it is getting across Texas.

I was able to finish a 1500 mile road trip back in the '70s in my Plymouth by simply putting some grease into the Alemite hydraulic (a.k.a. Zerk) fitting on the top of my water pump every time I stopped for gas... I guess you lose this type of fall back when you install a water pump with modern seals and bearings.

And Joe at Sierra Specialty Automotive will sleeve them too and I think it will cost you less than at White Post.