TodFitch

Last I heard, putting a hole in a toe or finger nail to relieve pressure when you have blood under it is still standard practice. For the rest of your older home treatments listed, I'd really avoid them.

Parts group 19-30-18 "Steering Wheel Nut" shows part 145013 for the P7, P8, P9, P10, P11, P12, P14 and P15. The Standard Parts List shows part 145013 to be a 5/8-18 plain steel "Nut - lock, hexagon, thin, semi-finished" with an illustration that shows it looking like a castle nut.

Dirt in the gas? How does the sediment bowl on the fuel pump look?

Looks like the "Standard Catalog of American Cars".

With respect to the roof, it is fairly common for street rodders to weld in a steel roof. For restoration work it would be looked down on. So I guess it depends on the crowd you are trying to fit into. Since a folding canvas sunroof setup was available for some years and models in the UK when the cars were new, that might also be an interesting way to go that would be interesting and acceptable to both the restoration and street rodding crowds.

I've always liked to "time signals" to see if I can keep the car rolling. Just a bit of a harmless game: Let off on the gas when you see a red light ahead and coast down to the light trying to time it so it will turn green when you are just far enough away that you won't have to use your brakes to stop. You get to where you are going just as fast as those who drive full speed up to the intersection then slam on the brakes, you'll use less gas and you'll wear out your brakes a lot slower.

Not sure about flushing with alcohol. I've heard that it damages rubber. On the other hand if you flush first and then follow through with replacing all rubber parts as you suggest, I guess it would work out okay. I replaced everything in my '33s brake system when I rebuilt it: New cylinders, new hoses, new steel tubing, etc. Filled it with DOT5 (silicone) back in '97 or '98 and it has been fine ever since. The only real issue I had was getting them bled properly as the DOT5 fluid seems to hold small air bubbles a lot more than DOT3. You have to be careful when you pour it into the master cylinder or you'll be adding air which you then have to bleed out. Unless/until you get all those small air bubbles out you'll have a soft pedal.

Or watching movies...

You are right, I left off the smiley... I suspect that Don C can take the ribbing though. At least I hope so.

From this article http://news.cnet.com/8301-17852_3-57426115-71/watch-people-go-nuts-when-asked-to-text-during-driving-test/ the video is entertaining:

So if he prints the main web page it will be official for the DMV? Wow! If that works there will be lots of scams going on with his state's DMV.

Bendix number matches up to NAPA UP 36961 which is a short brake hose (7.625" long). Looks like the ends are correct for connecting up but the description says "Caution Statement : Do Not Use w/ Petroleum-Based Fluids - Designed Only For Use w/ DOT Approved Silicone Or Glycol-Based Brake Fluids"

http://www.latimes.com/news/nation/nationnow/la-na-nn-toy-car-20120501,0,7137707.story

We've been using Prii ("pree-eye") since 2003 when got our second one. Which apparently Toyota finally got around to agreeing with in 2011 see: http://www.engadget.com/2011/02/21/toyota-decrees-the-plural-of-prius-is-prii-your-latin-teach/ My wife's vanity tag is "II PRII". Since "DUO PRII" was taken we just went with Roman numerals.

That deserved a web search. Looks like the fellow purchased the car after it had the accident. http://www.aprs.org/APRS-SPHEV.html And he has this add-on for when he needs more room to carry things:

He's already done that, the engine is from a '53 Plymouth and the transmission appears to be mid-30s...

Probably a Rube Goldberg idea but looking at it like a stapler, maybe something that could hold the anvil clamped in place but with a free opening in the front of the tool would work. Kind of like your c-clamp idea except that you aren't trying to set the rivet with the clamp. That way you can position it as you like without messing up the rivet legs. Once in position and clamped then you insert a rivet and press/pound it in to set it.

But that isn't the "Goodrich blimp" that was referred to in the earlier post.

Don't know if they are NOS or reproduction, but Restoration Supply Company shows them in their catalog: Restoration Supply Company 15182-B Highland Valley Rd. Escondido, California 92025 Telephone: +1.760.741.4014 Fax: +1.760.739.8843 email: info@restorationstuff.com http://www.restorationstuff.com/

It might be nice to get Coker Tire to chime in on this as they are now selling radial tires in sizes where you can't buy a modern rim. For example, they offer one that fits on the skinny 17" rim used on my '33. Seems like they think radials are safe for older rims. Or maybe their radials are different in some way but they don't say that in their descriptions. They also sell it in sizes appropriate for Model A Fords but you can get new wheels for those. Noticed that they have some in the 165/15 size greg g wrote were popular when radials first came out.

That is one test, works for materials like cast iron that are affected by magnetism. I think that for things like aluminum they use a dye penetration technique for crack detection.

Just guessing, I think there is about a ten to one mechanical advantage the way my brake pedal is connected to the master cylinder. And I can easily put my full body weight worth of force on my might foot while pressing on the brake. Call it 200 pounds for nice round numbers. So we have about 2,000 pounds of force on the master cylinder piston. I think that my master cylinder has a 1 1/8 inch bore so the cross sectional area is very close to 0.99 square inches which make calculating the PSI real easy (force/one). So you better have a "oil pressure gauge" that goes to around 2,000 PSI.

If you aren't hung up on total originality, would some Chicago Screws work for you?

Does anything on page 130 of Restoration Specialties' catalog look like they might work for you http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2011_Catalog_Web.pdf

Sounds like you have a pretty good "next door mentor".