TodFitch

Driving for five years now? First automatic transmission car I got was after I'd been driving 36 years. Seems like using a manual transmission is like riding a bicycle. You just get in the vehicle and everything works without conscious effort. Well maybe not. A couple years back my wife and I took a trip to England and Wales. The rental car was a 5 speed diesel. Between always having to look the wrong way for traffic and using the wiper to signal turns I did have to consciously think about moving the shift lever with my left hand. Stalled it a couple of times when I got third rather than first... Regarding learning to drive a stick shift, two things come to mind: First, "back in the day" a VW Beetle was a good car to learn in as it was pretty forgiving and non-intimidating. The second one was how my mother taught us to drive on the column shift family car (Dad did not have the patience). She had Dad set the idle up just a little then had us practice driving around our rather hilly neighborhood without touching the accelerator. Didn't take long to learn how to use the clutch and learn when to shift with that type of lesson.

Maybe 15 years ago I purchased a reel of copper core cloth covered spark plug wire. Still working off that same reel and have a few more years worth of tune ups left on it. I don't remember who I purchased it from but it looks like YnZ's carries it: http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=32 I'd be surprised if you couldn't get the same or similar stuff from other vendors. I buy the boots and end pieces from my local auto supply when I buy the rotor, cap, condenser and points.

142 ft-lbs. See http://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque Don't forget the cotter pin. They can come off without it and don't ask me how I know...

Good for her! And good for you! Question though: Where the heck did you find that big a parking lot that was empty? I am unaware of any like that here in the South Bay.

Check for blockage in the tiny relief hole in the master cylinder.

Regarding that tiny hole: If you have junk big enough to clog a hole that you can see through with your naked eyes, you have bigger issues than the effectiveness of the oil filter. And if you have that stuff it should be stopped by the strainer on the oil pick up. I believe that less that 50% of the oil is filtered on each pass. But that is still enough. If only 10% is filtered on a pass (90% or 0.9 unfiltered) then on the second pass 0.9x0.9=0.81 or 81% will be unfiltered, etc. After 10 passes only 35% will be unfiltered. And after 100 passes only 0.002% of the oil will be unfiltered. That many passes only takes a few minutes and you get 99.998% of your oil filtered. If you have a decent filter, then the oil should be cleaned up in just a few minutes of running time. A good depth media type bypass filter can remove sub-micron contaminants and restore your oil to "like new" condition. Having the equivalent of an fresh oil change every 10 or so miles sounds like a good thing to me. Unfortunately they decided to be cheap on the filter in later years and put in a paper surface media filter good to only 40 or so microns which largely negates the advantages of a bypass filter. Yes But I think you mean Alemite hydraulic fittings rather than Zerk fittings which were last used on Plymouth in 1933. http://www.ply33.com/Backmatter/LubricationFittings

Good solid looking car you are starting with. For what it is worth, here is what the serial number implies: Serial Number 3089 3607 Found in range 30799738 to 31011765 Serial 93870 of 212028 Year 1947 Make Dodge Model Name DeLuxe or Custom Model Code D24 Plant Detroit Engine 6 cylinder 230.2 cu. in. L-head Wheelbase 119 1/2 inches

I think that "K" was added in an edit. I'm pretty sure I noticed it missing when I first looked at this thread. I did see an article about how she just recently decided to stop driving because of vision issues. And that she doesn't want to give the car to her children, grandchildren or great-grandchildren because they don't appreciate it so she wants to sell it to a collector who will take care of it properly.

I think you should say the reverse: VW Beetles look like '34 Air flow coupes. The 1934 Chrysler Airflow pre-dates the "People's Car" by a few years. First production of the VW KDF trickled out of the factory in '39, five years after the Airflow.

That explains your posts elsewhere for copies of a '53 Plymouth service manual. If the engine was installed reasonably well and you aren't a stickler for originality, you'll probably find that the '53 engine is far easier to get parts and service than the original '30 engine. There was a huge design change on Chrysler engines starting, at least on Plymouth, in 1933 and the older engines are much different (poured babbit, etc.) than the '33 and newer (thin shell inserts, etc.). Getting mechanical parts for a '33 and up Plymouth is far easier than getting equivalent parts for a '32 or older Plymouth. A quick web search turns up that "Dickie seat" and "rumble seat" are synonyms. Have to add that to the bonnet/hood, boot/trunk, wings/fenders, etc. translation list.

Been a lot of years now since I pulled my axles. I know I didn't have any special tools to do it. I think I simply re-installed the brake drum/hub on the axle after removing the brake backing plate and used the brake drum as a good hand hold to just pull the axle out. But it has been so long that I don't remember exactly how I did it. I guess that means I had no issues because that is usually what I remember: The issues and problems associated with doing a job.

Welcome. I recall seeing your posts over on the AACA forums. I don't recall the photos however. Looks like a good solid vehicle that will be a strong runner once sorted out. Interesting looking engine: I was under the impression that prior to 1933 the water pumps used by Chrysler had a gland nut and used packing for sealing. Your engine has the later style water pump complete with a blocked off thermostat bypass which, I thought, would make it 1934 or later. I suspect a later engine has been installed on your car. What is the number stamped on the block above the generator?

Might want to notify them that you are the owner of the photo and that at the least you'd like credit.

Did they get your permission to publish?

It is possible to deform it too much...

I noticed this Chrysler-Plymouth sign on ePay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OLD-42-CHRYSLER-PLYMOUTH-APPROVED-SERVICE-Red-W-B-SIGN-/130670547287?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6c925157 It is similar in design to the one I picked up back in the 1970s for about $40 but mine is in much better condition. If their asking price is anywhere near the actual market, then that represents about a 13% annualized return. That is a heck of a lot better than I've been doing with my investments what with the Dot-Com bust and the 2007/8 crash. Now I just have to invent a time machine so I can go back to the '70s and buy a few more signs and I'll be able to make enough profit to put the retirement fund over the top.

As this is being posted on the car side, am I correct that this NAPA part UP 10591 it to fit a P15 that uses Chrysler part number 1123005? In the hope that I am correct on that, I've updated my parts database at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group5#5-67-01 Ian, All the bleeder screws I've seen on old Plymouths were steel. From the photo I am guessing that the NAPA part is iridited steel.

My solution:

At least on the horn on my '33, the electrical is all through the two screw terminals. The horn housing does not need to be grounded at all. It does take a lot of current which means that my usual #20 gauge test leads wouldn't work. Need something like a #12 or maybe #10 gauge test leads and a good high current source of power to test the thing.

Never noticed them before your post. I only see an eBay store, is there no "real" presence for them other than that? Looking at the product line I think you should be careful about the applicability they claim. For example they show a hydraulic kit for "1930-35" Plymouths with a master cylinder that won't fit the '30 model and wheel cylinders that won't fit any of them. Maybe the pictures are wrong and they actually tailor the kit to the vehicle you specify but I did not see that feature if it exists.

I have that serial number being closer to 3/4 of the way through the run: Serial Number 26016749 Found in range 26010840 to 26018852 Serial 5910 of 8013 Year 1948 Make Plymouth Model Name DeLuxe Model Code P15S Plant Los Angeles Engine 6 cylinder 217.8 cu.in. L-head Wheelbase 117 inches The number on the title looks nothing like a Chrysler product serial or engine number. I think greg g is correct in guessing that it is a number off of a replacement engine and that the DMV paperwork was updated when the engine was replaced.

Add another $248 if you want a dual carb intake from that same vendor http://reds-headers.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=822&zenid=f04281f3b1cc245d565998e55cfaa413

You are right. And if you can't get enough leverage on the linkage on the starter pedal the hand crank is behind the rear seat back. Oops. Now you know where I store the hand crank... But you will still have to bring your own coil to start the engine.

Ahh. Shorting or bypassing the starter solenoid with a quarter to get the starter to run. I hadn't thought of that. Still need to jump the coil but I guess that is what the wire with the clips was for. Neither would work on my '33 as it has a mechanical linkage to engage the starter and an armored line between the ignition switch and the coil. But there are plenty of '50s and '60s vehicles where it would have worked.

My suburban local "better auto supply" has all the tune up parts for my 79 year old Plymouth. I give them a call in the morning when they open and the parts are available for pick up at lunch. Same thing for the 6v battery. I haven't bothered checking on the light bulbs as those are easy for me to stock. NAPA carries the generator cut-out, I can get generator and start brushes easily too. So I am wondering what 6v parts might keep me from using the car as a daily driver? If you want/need 12v for modern accessories that is a good reason to convert. But I don't buy the "getting harder to find" argument.