Scruffy49

.060 is only about 1/2 used up, if that. These old flatties aren't like modern sissy thin wall V8s. Kanter used to carry much larger overbore sizes but I haven't looked at them for years...

Credit card security and farmer. Work from home, 1/2 day at each. Ex-zookeeper, trucker, parts counterman, rod/bike custom builder, ridge runner (my 69 Sweptline came with a whiskey tank under the bed, complete with fake fuel lines and transfer switch, 1/2 ton with heavy 3/4 ton springs).

Whole wheel are just the hoops? Hoops are easy, any farm co-op can get them brand new, in fact, so can Northern Tool. He just has to get the master catalog. Wouldn't happen to be a guy named Jurgen (short stocky, long dark hair, drives a big red Kenworth for Graham Trucking) from up in Rochester by any chance? His 8N was at his in-laws in Virginia and I know the rear wheels and fenders got beat to pieces... Any tractor dealership can order brand new reproductions. Originals are getting a bit scarce. I can check the local ag junkyard but shipping would be a nightmare.

Go Hagens or get new. I took one of mine to Hagens (used to live out there) and they almost keeled over dead at the amount of brake fluid turned green sand in the bore. Flushed it out, handed it back and told me to use it as a steelheading weight. They aren't all that high new. And if the cylinders are that bad, if it were me, new lines and master as well, plus DOT 5 brake fluid. Perfect time to upgrade the master cylinder to a dual circuit or swap for front discs.

Every time I start my 69 D100 it has to be primed before hitting the key. I use 2 stroke mix for it, less likely to set the carb on fire.

I've done a couple. Bell/crossmember first, then engine (with clutch assembly installed), then do the transmission from under the cab. Not as bad as trying to guide the whole mess in one shot.

I've got a spare, do you prefer circa 1949 or circa 1956? Both need to be stripped and repainted. Both are off of Plymouth engines.

Sailor swing by here (Memphis area) and get the spare 3 speed (column shift type), and bellhousing/crossmember. I'm getting ready to toss them in the iron pile if nobody wants them or use them as erosion control blocks. 56 or 57 Savoy stuff, I'm only keeping the 230 they came on.

If that was my bc I'd be going gasser. Since you are already adding a V8 and such, and it has no kid seating... Good starting point, my 49 truck was used pretty hard by its original owner to haul heifers,firewood, boats, horse trailer. I've got a lot of metal repairs to do, but since it is a one family truck... Nice way to bond with your son. I wish my Dad was more of a gearhead, but, so be it. I'm building a bike like he and his friends all rode before they left for the military in 1964. I'd have turned it into a sign, but the way his eyes lit up when he saw it a couple years ago... maybe I'll get it to him before he decides he's too old to at least try riding it (1963 Honda 250 Scrambler race bike). He hasn't ridden since 1964, hasn't driven my truck since sometime prior to 1973 when he bought a new big block F100. Let your son do as much as he can to "help", he'll appreciate the car that much more when he is older.

Sweptline (61-71 Dodge truck) power steering was ram assist, but it sucked. Same with the Torino version. Don't waste your money. If you want power steering look into the 4x4 Toyota box and pump swap. Fairly common and works.

The filter should contain a coolant life extender. That's how the modern ones work for on highway diesel engines. As the coolant ages, it loses strength, the filter additive package helps to balance that out. Even our John Deere turbo diesels have coolant filters. You can get filter elements that contain sacrificial anodes/plates to slow the galvanic corrosion action. You could also just drill and tap a coolant passage to accept the anode off an outboard motor lower unit. But, it will create another potential failure point... Truck Pro, Fleet Pride or Tractor Supply Company should have add on inline coolant filter units. Do you need them,no. Do they help? All the big rig engine manufacturers seem to think so, or they would not have added them at the factory. You do have to match the coolant type to the filter type if it is a conditioner as well as filter. The conditioners aren't spec'd for "green goo", they require an extended life formula.

Hmm... my Savoy bell looks nothing like that. Guess mine is L6 only. Still available to anybody that will come get it if they take the trans and starter with them. and I guess the flywheel/clutch can go with, I'm using a truck bell/starter and the flywheel/clutch that matches them (if a 48 assembly will fit a 56 block).

You can stil have my spare if you need it. Haven't gotten around to tossing it in the iron pile yet. I'll dig it out and see if it is worth doing something with, right now it's just on the cab floor collecting spiders... You watch, I'll send it to you, decide I'd rather have the smooth one instead of my mirror one... even though I plan to run dual outside mirrors and shouldn't need the inside one I'm hanging on to it for now... so getting rid of the smooth bar would be in my favor decision wise...

Someone near me did that with a 49-51 Mercury sedan. I need to see if it is still sitting in the boneyard and bring it home if it is. Would love to finish it, the bodywork was almost done and the guy lost interest. Almost looked factory...

My 49 1/2 ton has a mix of fine and acme threads. None of which are getting reused. I'll save the acmes and their clips for the resto guys. Every fastener on mine that I can safely do so is being replaced with stainless steel and/or high silicon bronze marine grade. Visible ones will likely get acorn nuts just to add some to the " huh?" factor... Suspension stuff will be hardened stainless with bronze (oil lite) bushings. I only want to do a full blow it apart on the truck once, but with the ability to easily take something off for repairs in the future. Stainless and bronze aren't cheap, but they last for a LONG time.

Tinted windows (done before I was born), Plymouth engine, 15" wheels with radials (until the stock wheels with wide whites are finished), rear bumper with trailer hitch, front bumper guards, blue seat instead of cow poop brown. Still to come: 5 speed, 230 to replace 218, rear axle swap, lowering, wooden strip headliner, spotlights and visor, have a lead on a stock radio, modern gauges, 12v conversion (with hidden modern stereo), rear skirts (if I swap to the 39-47 rear fenders I want), rear bumper delete or at least tuck itin tighter, 2 tone paint... All depends on whether or not I decide to stick with a traditional 50s custom lowrider build or keep it as Grandpa's old work truck.

I'm making a shed out of the motorhome. I can't afford 4 miles per gallon...

Near Rosemark TN, 38 miles from the Memphis airport, 15-20 miles east of the MS River.

I've got a 56 or 57 bell I don't need... but you have to take the side shift 3 spd with it. I'd even toss the starter (12v car type, untested, I have a 6v truck one for my project) into the mix.. shoot me the bolt pattern and I'll measure my bell.

$2500, tops as it sits. At least in the Memphis TN area. Ford or GM... add a 0.

It will work, but you're going to need to beef up under the car even more than you would for a standard big block. And always order medium duty truck or motorhome replacement parts, which are a LOT more expensive than standard parts if you need something other than belts and tune up bits. A minor freshening up of the 413-3 in mine was over $4K in 1999/2000... better than the air over hydraulic to straight hydraulic brake conversion, but not by much... Industrial and medium/heavy truck engines will have the displacement and -3 cast into the block. Also, the TRUCK (2 ton and up) engines are cammed for torque, you'll rip a car or light truck rear end apart. If you plan to run a real RV/truck cam (not the mild so called RV cams from the parts house) you'll want a Dana 70 or 80, GM 14 bolt, Ford 10.25 or 10.5 inch rear axle, and they are 8 lug stock. The rear axle in my motorhome is a giant round unit that looks like it should be under a Peterbilt.

2.2L was decent if you had a Shelby version.

25th Infantry '66, got a Purple Heart courtesy of an NVA mortar attack on his 21st birthday... If you were there in 67/68, maybe you found the black and gold Olympia beer serving tray that he forgot when he rotated back stateside... He went back to CuChi about 5 years ago, said it's still a whole bunch of nothing surrounded by palm trees and peanut fields. Of course, he's a bit jaded... my wife is STILL mad at him for saying New Orleans French Quarter looked just like Saigon... and he said that in 1997 when he came to Long Beach MS for our wedding...

You cut up 4 doors, 2 door wagons are too hard to find. There's a 49-51 Mercury sedan around here that got Ranchero-fied decades ago and never finished. I'm trying to find it again to drag it home and finish it. I THINK it will fit on my 114" 2.3L 5 spd chassis... Customs don't need fancy engines, just reliable. And unless you haul around a passel of rugrats, sedans are just sheet metal donors around my area. Literally can't GIVE them away.

You guys can hit 55? Lucky... my truck ith a 218, 3 speed top loader and 4.78:1 rear end tops out at 50, gas pedal alsmost through the floor, engine trying to jump out of the frame. My dad used to drive it in high school, said the only time it hit 60 it ended up breaking the crank in half and holing the stock block. I'm hoping the 230, 5 speed and more modern rear end (Ranger 4 banger) will let it do better than that. Might go ahead and upgrade the rear again before I bother swapping the Ranger axle in (afraid it won't hold up). I'd really like to run an IFS/IRS but I'm so far beyond broke it isn't remotely amusing... I can't even swing free parts right now (ran out of welding wire).