Scruffy49

The nuts on my 49 are welded to the inside of the fender... Did they change that on the next fender series? Or was mine an owner modification (like about 1/2 the other stuff)?

Pop the shocks off, undo the shackles and roll it out. But it is a whole lot easier to break the u-bolts loose while the front end is in the truck. Same for the rear axle, break the nuts loose on the u-bolts before you disconnect the shackles... I usually pull the axle out, do one spring pack and the frame are around the shackle mounts, then install the finished spring pack. No different than doing the brakes, you do one corner at a time so you have an in your face reference. Fewer headaches and who cares about over spray on a chassis? I'm doing my truck kinda hodge podge, not really any rhyme or reason. I get bored very easily... Right now I'm getting ready to yank the bed apart, all the bolts are junk (so are the welded nuts they go into) so I've got a big stack of cut off wheels to play with... Then I get the fun of swapping my rear springs side for side to the inside of the frame rails. Have to for wheel clearance on my donor axle (which will probably not last long, 7.5" Fraud--- Ford Ranger 4 banger) That ought to be loads of fun, modifying cross members, relocating fuel tank... maybe should just fix the stock rear but 4.78 gears aren't any fun with a small 6 banger.

If they are in good shape I reuse them. But if they won't go back in the holes easily... The sources listed make them for tractor trailers and such, little bolts like ours are a piece of cake. Down here they send small stuff to a local trailer manufacturer that makes them and then heat treats them. So far so good. The ones in my 49 will have to be removed via Sawzall...

You can drop the 58 off here Tim if you're tired of working around it. My Super Beetle needs a "barn buddy". I had a 315/4spd 58 D300 stake, but it got Katrina-fied... had left it with a neighbor on the Gulf Coast and when they had to bug out, he couldn't take everything.

30 minutes? Unless the front end was perfectly maintained figure on 10x that long... And don't plan on reusing your U-bolts, half the time they come off alright, relax, and won't go back into place. Fleet Pride and Truck Pro can point you to a local source if they can't replicate them in house. Look up Posie's on the internet and get yourself some spring liner, makes an incredible difference in the ride of the truck. Get enough to do all 4 spring packs. The teflon takes all bind out of the springs, lets them slide on each other as they are supposed to. Clean, quiet, smoother ride. Check the forum for a dual chamber master cylinder conversion. It is worth it... and a whole lot easier to do if you can get under the truck without the suspension in the way of your arms. Shock mounting plates out of a 69-71 Dodge truck are set up for sway bars on an I beam front axle. Worth looking into... Dodge plates and end links, Ranger, S10 or Dakota bar will be close to the right over all length, D100 bars are too long. You can replace any funky bushings with self lubricating bronze versions. Tractor Supply, Lowes, Home Depot or your local bearing house can get you the sizes you need if you do some leg work. Drill and tap as needed if you want them greasable. Used to swap them all the time on older rigs w/o major issues, they can be a bit noisier and stiffer than stock though. True daily driver? Upgrade your front brakes while the axle is out. Discs work fine in a manual brake set up. I plan to order the A100 disc hub conversion parts from Speedway Motors and have machined as necessary to fit my front axle. And I'll run either a more modern drum rear axle or a disc rear axle. Discouraged yet?

I've still got my blue jacket manual, one pair of pants and shirt from my "Johnny Cashes", my dress blue pants, and one "Dixie Cup" left from boot camp. Everything else is gone or has long since been repurposed. And my father in law (WW2 LST QM2) wants the white hat, he wears them on the farm, Gilligan style... We only wore Navy gear when we were in trouble or standing quarterdeck watch at NCBC Gulfport. The rest of the time was cammies. I've been a civilian since 8/96.

Looks like the pre-luber or auxiliary oil feed pump for an ancient total loss oiling system engine. But I don't see a port for the feed line, so it isn't one of those...

Can't go wrong with Barred Rocks or Buff Orpingtons, they did fine in the snow in the Cascades when we lived in WA. Eggs all year, heat and light in the coop was a red incubator bulb in the winter. Both breeds will eat ANYTHING...

Steering damper is stock, forks are I have no idea, front wheel is getting replaced with a GT750 TLS drum (early 1969) or the later 500 wheel that was the same thing. Potential? I got it to make a sign out of and the thing fired off... no papers, so not a priority...

You mean goofy stuff like my junk heaps? This WAS a 1998 Savage... And what is left of my early 250 Scrambler that somebody made a cafe racer out of and I'm turning into a street legal tracker. This is the one that locked up on me... Guilty as charged...

Those first 2 are pretty cheap compared to same era Ford or Gm products. Old Chrysler products that are not muscle cars just are not very desirable in the States. Which is a very good thing for those of us that like them. One of my motorcycle friends from Sweden saw a pic of my 49 truck and thought it was a solid $5K example, around here it is a maybe $500 truck. With the 5 new old stock wide whites, maybe a $750 truck... It is also why old Chrysler products cost 3 times as much to work on as a same era GM product... less demand for the parts.

AvGas isn't hard to get, don't you guys have any crop dusters in your area? Couple cases of Bud is good for a car tank worth around here... except I use it in the John Deere 1020UL when it starts acting up. That thing does not like modern gasoline. Awful lot of swabbies on this site... BUCN NMCB 133

My old Hondas are OLD... like 1963 CL72 old. Old as in stand on a breaker bar on the generator side crank nut and nothing moves old... Let me check my stash, I may have a filter adapter. I used to be in the Harley scene something fierce... These work fine...https://twistedchoppers.com/shop/remote-oil-filter-mount/

Just buy new shocks. Spin on oil filter? That's easy, any remote mount or add on kit that takes a P8HA or equivalent will work fine, including the ones made for Harley Davidson based custom bikes (tend to be a lot cheaper than from the offroad or performance shops). There are a lot of people who buy the old canister filter housings. Cafe racer builders, chopper builders, restoration guys... filled with cement and the fittings knocked off they make decent cannon sabots...

I used some left over home center sourced wire for the generator to voltage regulator heavy lead. 6g multiple strand, heavy copper lugs on the ends. Looks good, works fine, rated up to 600 volts... Almost wish I was staying with the 6v stuff just because the wiring I've already done looks so neat, nothing smaller than modern 12g, wire from West Marine (tinned multiple strand, big time corrosion resistance and solders beautifully), high heat safe, chemical resistant... And I have no idea what goes to where now... many same color wires all eaten by mice.

I'd run that. I'd even run a 289 Studebaker if it looked that nice. Wish i could get my alcohol 340 or my 392 Hemi back, but they are long gone. Ah well, I do have a 413-3/727 combo in one of the old toys. And just got 5 wide whites for the 49 project (already mounted one up, they look some kind of good). 15s for the driver wheel/tire combo, 16s with wide whites for showing off... and have a lead on spotlights and the correct radio for the 49! Cheap (even better)!

You can get modern safety wheels with the right bolt pattern, just takes some hunting. Find a medium duty truck salvage yard, find a UPS truck. There's potentially 6 donor wheels that are close enough for a driver grade truck. UPS trucks had 3 different bolt patterns, so... take your tape measure... Also look on older Class A motor homes, some had the big 6 lug pattern, some had big 8, others had big 10. Kind of a crap shoot, and a lot of them are going to be either 17.5 or 19.5 inch wheels.

The inside of my truck is a mess, but Ill try to get some pics if it ever quits raining. Need to find my outside divider bar, hopefully it is buried in the cab somewhere. A lot of stuff got misplaced while packing for the move. Been here almost 2 years, still have boxes in the cabs of both trucks... I always thought the mirror, like the air ride seat, was stock in all of them, never been in a Pilot House without either.

Check your point gap, my old engines are bad about them sticking shut.

No worries, I'll chuck it in the forge into something useful out of it pile.

You can stand on them and they won't break. I want a set for my truck, but, since my stock ones can be fixed... The rear fenders are actually better than the stock steel fenders. A friend out west runs them on his 4wd conversion 50 1/2 ton, they don't crack like the stockers.

I have more time than money as a general rule... I know all kinds of odd stuff.

Tractor Supply has them around here. Lots of old tractors had oddball sized hardware.

I made mine from table cloth weight vinyl sewn over weed eater string. If you want it to look more "correct" , get a couple 2" wide strips of outdoor weight light black material, canvas or rip stop nylon work well. Making your own welting is easy. You can skip the stitching and just glue the stuff up, ask the lady at the fabric store for a glue that is water proof when dry. Wrap it, glue it, hold the thing closed with binder clips until the glue is fully dry. If your little retainers on the back side of the frame are broken, beading wire or floral wire work great...

My truck came with the factory mirror bar, but I've got a spare plain one if you need it. Kind of a core type set-up... you send a modified, they send you a core for the next person that needs one.