Scruffy49

And Mack R 685/686 series big rigs had the same basic parts. And they are still available from Mack. Cheaper than factory correct repops from Roberts. NOT a perfect match but great for a driver grade. You want early R escutcheons and handles. If you want closer to factory but a bit higher quality try the guys who carry early Ford parts. Through sometime in the 50s or 60s they used the same square shank.

Got a Tractor Supply Company store nearby? They sell a universal cut to fit 6 cylinder copper core set for under $20. Don't know the part number, but my new to me 230 came with a brand new set of Belden copper core wires, so NAPA still has them. Anything older than a Sweptline (61-71 truck) is a bit of a stretch for the national chains as far as Mopar stuff goes. I have a 69 D-100 and a 49 B1B-108, I get most of my parts through Parts Plus retailers or local independents.

That looks a LOT like the carb on the 230 I picked up last month for my B1B... If it is the same I guess I'll get my cracked exhaust manifold ear fixed and figure out how the car throttle bell crank hooks into the truck... Could have sworn I'd read 2bbl was 57-60, but my engine is out of a 56.

Stock 49 seat the rear cushion flips up and you can then raise the bottom cushion. Good luck finding a decent frame, I think they changed in 50 or 51. Cushions worth rebuilding are even scarcer. It took me 5 years to find a rebuildable that would fit the seat frame, and it is not for the right year. Forgot to pull the cushion to cushion latching brackets off my junk 49 base cushion. I've had my truck for 20 something years, finally getting around to the proper resto-modding job it so desperately requires.

Rednic79, I see you and I have the same parking brake...

Well, a header panel radio is correct for Power Giants... 57-60 trucks, my grandpa's 60 had a radio. I plan to install my radio and maybe a CB in my 49 that same way. If he used it as a working truck occasionally a plywood bedfloor is not unusual. Relatively inexpensive, easy to repair the inevitable scratches. Again, my 49 is going to most likely have a 3/4" or 13/16th" marine grade plywood floor so I can haul stuff to the farmer's market without messing up a show bed. I found the stock seat cushion in mine (even with the air-o-ride option) was rather uncomfortable. My latest bottom cushion is out of a V8 4spd, 1956 one ton if i remember right. Not great, but better than the stocker. I do have a car bottom cushion in the barn, if it fits it is going in, if not the truck gets a 92 Ranger seat. Buckets just look wrong in a 1940s pickup. Roberts Motors used to have replacement gloveboxes, but they are stock cardboard. Mine had been reinforced with 1950s interior paneling, so had the kickpanels. Wish I still had them, they actually looked good. Nice looking truck. Mine is a 3 window base model. With those same headlight covers (well, one, can't find the other one). And one 15 stainless steel spoke wheelcover (looks really nice, wish I had more of them).

I'd prefer to keep my 6v starter, I like the look and know it works. I've actually driven the truck with the old 218 in it back in 94. Last time I tried to start it I could hear rings tinkling down into the oil pan, I guess I didn't let the ATF sit in the cylinders long enough before turning it over (with a 900+ amp 12 volt battery). Simple is better, but my new wiring harness is set up for key start vehicles... No biggie, if the 218 starter fits I'll keep it. I'm going to be using the truck bellhousing, tranny and clutch anyway. Ought as well use the starter that came with that bellhousing. Definitely not afraid to mix and match parts. Heck, I'm already trying to figure out how to use the rear axle, front hubs/spindles/brakes, power steering and A/C out of my late brother-in-law's totalled 92 Ranger in my 49... Probably the seat, visors, fuel tank, and whatever else can be shoehorned in or trimmed to fit. 2.3L w/5spd manual so maybe I can adapt the trans too... Stock is nice but the truck is being restomodded the way my grandfather and I would have done it.

I'm going to switch mine to a spin-on the easy way. You can get a remote filter kit at any aftermarket Harley shop for around $50. Just get the one that takes a PH8A or equivalent. Swap your block fittings for barbed brass, kit comes with mounting plate, high temp hose, all required line clamps and sometimes with a filter. The canister looks cool, but I've found Napa and CarQuest get less helpful every time I go in there. Too many car guys have retired and been replaced with I.T. geeks that have no clue the paper catalogs exist, let alone know how to use them. It's a shame too, the kids (listen to me, I haven't even hit 40 yet...) have no idea the world they are missing out on.

I've tried the search function on truck, car and tech forums. Couldn't find the answer so... I'm switching my 49 B1B from a known bad 48 P15 218 6v w/truck starter (pedal starter) to a known good 56 Savoy 230 with what looks like an electric 12v starter. So far as I know it is the stock Savoy starter. How do I wire it in? Ford solenoid? Common as dirt and what, a whopping $10 or so the last time I bought one. Or should I just put the 6 volt starter back in when the engine is swapped? I know it is good, had it checked out/cleaned up about 5 years ago. Still spins just fine when smacked with 12v. Also, I'm going to switch to a common 12v 3 wire alternator. I have a 49 6v generator and a 56 12v generator I won't need. 6v bench tested good several years ago, haven't done anything with the 12v unit. 6v is deep/wide v-belt pulley, 12v is the skinny pulley. I like the generator but need a higher amp rating. Open to trades if you are local (Memphis area)... Or shoot me a price. Thanks guys. Oh, if anyone needs a 3 on the tree I've got one. Keeping the truck tranny.

That looks really good. I'm probably going to do my 230 in Chrysler Industrial Red so it will match the LA318 in my 69 D100. My current 218 is old Ford Engine Dark Blue (352FE era), looks great but the engine is bad... My truck is for fun so I'm not worried about stone stock factory correct.

No pics, but there is a B1B with 39-47 1/2 ton rear fenders running around Tacoma Washington. Used to see the truck alot, even at one of the local Mopar shows. Those fenders would actually look good skirted. And they actually flow well with the Pilot House trucks. I almost bought a 49 Wayfarer to go with my truck, but it wasn't $13k nice...

They were painted, but like you said, it burns off quick. Only thing I've had great success with is flat black BBQ paint, and even then, unless you coat the inside as well it doesn't last. If you want them to stay clean and shiny they'll need to be ceramic coated. Jet Hot has always had the best aluminum tone ceramic.

I like them, but unless I want to have one of the few traditional "bomber" lowriders in my area, have to pass. Can't find a ready made for a B1B anyway, but I suppose I could cut one down meant for a W900 Kenworth or 379 Peterbilt... And fender skirts on a stock B1B would be hideous, no matter how far it got lowered. And I'm not cutting the bumper to run 47 rear fenders... seen it, looks good, but... If my grandpa was alive to see some of the crazy stuff I've tried (and passed on) with his old cow hauler he'd keel over dead...

Pretty common. 600 degree is alright for engines and low heat brackets/accessories. 1200, 1500 or higher degree works better on manifolds, but will still discolor and smoke until fully cured. I worked in the custom motorcycle industry for years. Nothing except PJ1 high temp paints for me. I believe they still make a super high heat aluminum paint (2200-2500 degree). Check the Harley Davidson and Volkswagen aftermarkets. I know it is incorrect, but the 230 L6 exhaust/intake in my 49 B1B will be painted with BBQ paint or woodstove paint. Both get hotter than L6 manifolds...

No kidding. And unless you wax seal the ends like you do maples and a lot of the tropical woods it will crack on you like nobody's business. Oak is some kind of touchy. And tends to eat saw blades and planer blades... We do have other woods available on this place. Water oak, pin oak, black walnut, English walnut, pecan, sweet gum, hickory, elm, persimmon, yellow locust, black locust, bois d'arc (bodock, hedge apple), Tennessee cedar (nice purple and cream two tone naturally, think cedar mothballs). Arrangements can be made for anybody with a Utiline, Stepside, Flareside or whatever you prefer to call them wood bed floor truck. I'm just a PM away and need some of these trees cleared out anyway. Oh, and there is a coal fired forge and several anvils on site if you need to make something one off for your ride. This is a working farm, I'll be home most evenings and weekends.

John, mine came east on a U-haul transport trailer behind a 20' U-haul van. My next door neighbor from Washington drove it back here for us. We parted ways in Tremonton Utah after my 69 D-100 broke down (idiot mechanic did not realize Dodge rear bearings require grease instead of splash lubrication). Kevin may very well have dropped down through Denver to make up lost time. My wife and I continued on to Grand island Nebraska, dropped through Kansas to Tulsa. Stopped in Broken Arrow Oklahoma to get my 230 w/3 on the tree tranny (trans available if someone needs it). Pretty easy truck to spot, Cessna midnight blue peeling/flaking off of US Navy red lead primer (brushed over factory black paint, sanded smooth before blue went on). Truck was repainted when the 48 engine was installed in 1965, a ready to go swap for the stock 218 truck core. The current engine looks good but has a bunch of broken rings, and the 230 is a guaranteed runner. The oak is up for grabs. I have a "man killer mill" aka a chain saw ripping guide aka Alaska Mill. I maybe can rough slab some of it once my father in law remembers where he stashed the mill parts... He's 85 so it will turn up eventually. As much as I'd like a fancy burl oak and color matched stainless strip with polished bolt floor it likely won't happen. This is very dark wood, think properly aged/used Spanish colonial oak furniture dark with some reddish and goldish swirls/streaks in it. I should make sideboards and produce boxes out of it... Truck is going to be a "reversed Spring Special" even though it is the wrong year for that. Pumpkin and butter cream, polished mahogany armrests, bent hardwood strip headliner (think Chris Craft). Grandpa had mahogany boats, father in law had a beautiful restoration in progress double planked cypress over live oak 1946 30' wooden cabin cruiser destroyed by Katrina. I have a matching color scheme barhopper motorcycle, trying to tie a bunch of family elements into the one truck. Overly ambitious?

Truck has been in the family since new. I'll be the second title holder. Fairly plain 3 window cab. Has factory bumper guards, has a rear bumper (looks to be a panel model bumper) with hitch, turn signal kit. 15 inch wheel swap but still have 5 stock wheels and 4 hubcaps. 48 P15 218 engine (core grade, maybe), getting swapped for 56 Savoy 230 (keeping truck 3 on the floor tranny). Very minor rust in one door bottom, around both front fender riveted mounts. The usual cracks in a truck that worked hard, stake pocket, rear fenders, tailgate edges. Hasn't been licensed since 1974, I've had it since I was a little kid and am putting it back in service. As a working light duty to haul pecans and produce to the farmers market, no rough stuff. Towed it across country earlier this month from WA to TN. I had joined here in 2008 but hadn't had any time to devote to the forums. I'm glad I decided to rejoin and that there is such an active community for our old rigs. I'll put up couple as it sits now pics when I find my camera cord. Still unpacking. Oh, if anyone in the greater Memphis area needs some white oak for your floor let me know, had a 400+ year old one get yanked out the ground Tuesday night. The larger branches (12-30 inch diameters) have some absolutely stunning figure in them. Hate to see it wasted as firewood...

Mine is covered with a piece of chain link fence upper rail tubing sliced and spread to fit. Hold in place with sheetmetal screws while the edges are welded, then pull the screws and weld up the holes. I also sleeved the inside of the old tube remnants with thin wall iron pipe for a better fit on the side pivots. My truck never has had a center mount for the tailgate, so I did not have to deal with cutting a recess in the new tubing to make it fit. I guess it helps that my truck hasn't been stone stock since before I was born, Grandpa wore it out hauling 4H and FFA steers/heifers and the bed had been modified for that use. Plus it has a 48 P15 218 right now, getting a 56 Savoy engine transplant, 12 volt conversion, one piece bedfloor, etc. Working trucks don't have to be concours correct.