Scruffy49

Quite a few of them rusted away to nothing. Lot's of pockets that trapped and held road debris and moisture. Your best bet is to get in contact with Slick Napier on the truck side of the board. He's building a V8 low rider 48 Panel that needed a LOT of body fabrication. You can also find him and his panel over on www.sweptline.org in the member's build threads area, but you'll have to join that site first (free). Build is chronicled in great photo detail.

Look for a flat spot on the top of the carrier... that's where it was on my 58 D300. And the 37 International 2.5 tonner down the road from us (truck used to belong to my father in law, he gave it away as a jungle gym...)

Replacement bail is less than $10. Take a pair of channel locks to the wheel. It will turn or it will break, not the end of the world. I've got a few John Deere 1020 UL and Willys CJ2A bails and bulbs around here that are a perfect match to the ones on my 48 218 and 56 or 57 230 engines. You can get the same diameter bulb in shorter or longer lengths as well, with bails to match. Chevs of the 40s carries some really nice ones... I'm probably going to run a generic 12v inline fuel pump on my truck. Cheaper, easier, cleaner. If I swap the stock tank for the spare Ranger poly tank I'll just run the Ranger fuel pump and inline filter, I know they work fine, I drive a Ranger every day.

My kit is still in the box, packed away in the cab of the 49. Haven't had a chance to install it yet. The harness has 3 looms coming out of the fuse box. Cabin/dash, front clip, rear end. You can order them with circuits to run power tops, they come with a power antenna wire (so do most modern stereos, so do antenna kits). Depending on what harness you buy, some are designed for later additional circuits to be added as needed. Rewiring a 30s to early 60s is easy. Even if you replace just one wire at a time. The entire rear end of my 69 is run off 4 wire boat trailer type with extra ground circuits to the individual light buckets from the battery. I added same color marker light wires on all 4 corners, truck came with round reflectors, I wanted actual marker lights. I rewired a former neighbor lady's 54 Chevy in under 2 hours with a universal kit and a 12v alternator instead of a generator. Everything worked better than factory new. Good enough for me. My trucks aren't going back to stone stock because I need them to work. Hard. I live on a pecan/produce farm.

My wife bought me an EZ kit for mine. Now to decide which truck it is going in, since both need full rewires. Both window regulators re stripped out in my 49, so the later kits that support power windows were important to me (universal flat glass kits). And the modern heater will be easier to wire with the modern kit (so will the radio, A/C, better lighting, power wipers instead of vacuum)... I started rewiring my 49 the one wire at a time method. And found out that every light socket is pretty much junk. Grandpa definitely used his old truck up before he parked it in 1974.

For your little wire in the dizzy just replace it with a modern style. You can make it, should run about 8 cents for the materials. With the cap on, who's gonna know (or care)? Cut the plastic off a couple crimp fittings and use them, the plastic takes up too much room. Oil filter comes apart as you described. There are a couple different sizes of insert, take the number off yours with you when you go to get the new insert. Or better yet, take the entire canister, just clean it out/off with Brakleen first and leave the lines hooked to the engine. Sediment bulb? Loosen the wheel in the center of the wire bail, swing bail to the side, bowl will pull off (if it doesn't fall off and break). Tractor Supply has bowls, gaskets and top screens, and a decent selection of filters to go in there. Take your parts in with you to match them up. Put the hoses back on the engine, fill the cooling system with water and radiator flush. If the radiator isn't in the truck, leave the fan off and hook big hose to big hose over a pipe connector (exhaust tubing is cheap and works fine for this). Fill the engine via the heater hose, and then hook the heater hoses together like the radiator hoses. Or let the flush mixture go through the heater core. If the radiator is in place, hook everything up like normal, bring the truck up to full operating temp and follow the flush bottle's label. Get the truck off the ground, on jackstands under the frame, wheels and tires off. My 49 is bad about trying to put itself in gear (or was the last couple times it ran in 94).

Raise the motor mounts on the frame rail or add one leaf to each spring pack. The high hood on our trucks gives you lots of fudge room, I've seen one out west running a blown 340 and everything fit under the stock hood.

Motivation to start working on it again. And the motorcycles. And a full bundle of pecan/hickory flooring (solid wood, 8 foot sticks). Since the truck is being built with whatever can be repurposed around the farm... I also got a 1920 something Henderson police motorcycle siren to replace the horn...

So just how many gallons of "fresh corn sqeezins" fit in that trunk anyway? Nice sled.

That's about as good as it gets. I hope my 230 turns out that nice.

I have a set of those mirrors. They're horrible...

Oil inlets so the shaft bushings get lubricated. 3 in 1 or similar work great.

NAPA, National or Parts Plus can all get the tune up parts. Plug wires from Tractor Supply Company (period, 1/2 the price from elsewhere). Your engine has the 1951-60 internal bypass head/water pump. Does your starter work off the key switch (1956-60)? Or is it the old style floor pedal with a modified 6v starter? Give the parts guy the model number off your distributor. The parts all look the same, but there are at least 2 heights of caps and rotors, and you can't mix them... If your engine spins over, and the distributor guts rotate, do not pull the dizzy. Retiming an L6 is at best a pain in the butt. If you want to pull it to paint the engine, don't. Just wrap it with a bread bag and rubber band, tape around the base. Paint the dizzy before you paint the block, no overspray on the engine that way. I know I'll catch some flak over this, but if you want a daily driver, sell the generator and install a Chevy one wire alternator (EZ-wire and related harnesses are set up for it). 1967-86 Ford truck headlight switch (slips right in). Cranked via ignition switch? Ford truck/tractor ignition solenoid (the 61-71 Dodge version is a piece of East Indian made junk, I went through 9 before I got one that lasted over 2 months). I'm sure I'll think up some more stuff later...

Slick's 48 Panel firewall with modification by wheelbarrow tub donor metal. Set up for a small block V8 but with a bigger wheelbarrow who knows how wild you could go. Went and got the pic because Slick isn't over here very often.

Rust converter, Rustoleum auto primer, Rustoleum bed liner spray, then the mat of choice. Cheapskate method that seals the top of the floorpans.

Go over to the www.sweptline.org website. In the member build threads is a 48 Panel being built by Slick (he's on this site too). Look at the firewall mods, he used a wheelbarrow as the donor metal... perfect shape. Or hit him up to post the build thread over on this site as well. Which he probably won't since it is a bagged, notched, IFS lowrider. You may have to join the Sweptline site to access the build threads section. Well worth it.

Take the seat out. You'll still have clearance issues but you won't constantly be getting stuck. Not as much space in a 40s model as in a 60s model due to the seat riser differences, but every bit of shoulder room counts. For really tight spaces? Borrow a 4 year old kid, they love to "help"...

8 or 10 cans of Rustoleum Dark Hunter green over the factory metallic/pearl puke green. You want work truck? Doesn't get much more work truck than spray paint and water bed rails coated with house latex... I painted it in late 2004 or early 2005, it has chalked out nicely. Looks almost like factory enamels of that era now. Like this, taken earlier this year... Oh, per your PM yesterday... $10 + postage.

External bypass water pump or internal bypass (no hose from head to water pump)? Green tags on the starter and generator or red tags? There should be a casting date on the block. Down around the starter and generator. My current engine was cast in 1948, replacement engine was cast in 1955 or 56. Casting date is close enough for them to work off of.

Thanks for the closer look at the manifold. That adapter plate was for a settable hand throttle. Like you'd find on an irrigation pump, pull the handle down and lock it, or pull the knob out, twist it and lock it. If it works as is, leave it alone. If it doesn't, pull the adapter and set the carb up in regular orientation. You'll need a different linkage if you do that. You also see adapters like that on multi-carb manifolds. And I'm pretty sure one of my L6 boat anchors, I mean, buildable cores, has one as well. Now I want to go look, but it's dark out and there is a skunk living under my truck.

If you do this run longer studs and you can easily add common as dirt Ranger/Explorer alloy rims... You can do the same on the front, very common on Sweptlines (61-71) as they run swedged front drums with non-swedged rear drums... And no more replacing reverse thread wheel bolts when the tire shop breaks one or more because they don't listen to you.

http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/indengines.php Chrysler industrial flathead 6s info site WITH engine identification based on displacement. Tell your NAPA guys to get off their backsides and crack the paper catalogs open. That's why I quit dealing with them.

Where are you located? There are forum members with spare parts available, one may be close enough to you to save you a bunch of money on shipping. And you can use the 12v regulator from Tractor Supply. Other options for 12v generators that are a direct swap? Small block Fords, Falcons and Mustangs had generators into the mid-60s. Look just like the Mopar ones from the mid-50s to 1960. And are a lot easier to find, new or used.

1950s 230 cylinder head, I have the same one off a 56 Savoy. Internal bypass water pump. Sideways carb is likely on an industrial use manifold (pump or generator). If your local farm co-op has a parts store they can get everything you could possibly need for a stock overhaul. Tractor Supply has the coil, spark plugs and plug wires. And the 12v voltage regulator...

My 49 has a rheostat heater speed control. Pretty sure it is still in the truck. I'm going 12v with a newer model heat/defrost/AC set up (1992 Ranger, I love having parts junkers around). Switch is yours if you need it (and I can find it). Heater isn't set up for a defroster if I remember right. Just went out and checked. Switch and braid covered wires look fine. Heater box has top of housing knock out plates for snap in defroster ducting, looks like 2 or 3 inch hose. Also has side knock outs. Doors are currently stuck closed but a dab of penetrating oil will take care of that. Design is so if the heat is on and you have defroster ducting, you get warm air from both locations.