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louie the fly

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  • Biography
    Been a MOPAR fan forever
  • Occupation
    Technical Services Engineer

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  • Location
    Woodside, South Australia
  • Interests
    Err, cars. Water skiing, footy

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  1. And people say beer is bad for you. I once took a 61 Holden for a drive that I was interested in buying. We drove it around the suburbs for about 10km. When back at the dude's place I said no thanks & went on our way. In the car my missus said "you DH, you know you had the handbrake on". Nope, I didn't...
  2. Good luck with your new position. It's a strange feeling changing jobs sometimes. Especially if you've been there a while & like it. I handed in my notice 3 weeks ago & start with a new company on May 16th. After being with my current employer for 7 years, and forming a great working relationship, I felt I needed to switch my career into overdrive.
  3. Desotodav, we buy all our fasteners from Universal Fasteners. If they don't have what I need I generally get by with what I can get. But I have heard of Classic Fasteners before. I think I came across them at a swap meet or something. Roger (the Dodger), I have checked out the Wilcap one, but designing stuff is what I do for a living so, yet again, I thought I'd give it a crack. I'd just like to get the block hole dimensions so I can cross check what I've measured. Unfortunately I can't put the block on the CMM & digitise the hole positions. I'm just in the process of changing jobs, but my (soon to be ex) boss said I'm welcome to come in & use the machines. He's a car guy too.
  4. Funny! I used to be into pommie bikes & like Andy said, we had loads of British Standard threads. All the old English bike stuff was British Standard Cycle 26TPI, LH & RH. A pain to get taps. I haven't progressed much with the swap other than designing an adapter to put a turbo 350 onto the 251. Does anyone have the dimensions of the bolt & dowel holes on the back of the block?
  5. I think it depends on what look you're trying to achieve. I went for 3" in the rear & 1 coil up front. I think it looks right. I made the blocks out of some aluminium offcuts we had lying around at work. I also made some 4" blocks for a mate's 53 Chebby sled. It sat super low to the point where he had trouble getting out of his driveway. I reckon 4" is too low. Here's a pic of how mine sits. It's a bit rough at the moment due to some recent work. All those cars shown above are very nice. I'm jealous!
  6. Thanks for the replies. I have a 230 with 3 speed, and a 250 with a 3 speed & overdrive in a parts car. Both are good runners so I'm tossing up what to do. Put the 230 back in, maybe with the overdrive from the 250, or put the 250 in, perhaps with an auto. If the bolt pattern is the same on both at least I can measure the 230 bellhousing & block and work out how to adapt the auto to the 250, if I go that way. Don't want to take the engine out of the parts car til I'm ready to use it. So much to think about. I'm in a bit of a rut at the moment and lacking motivation. Lots of things happening and no progress on the car.
  7. Do the 23" & 25" engines share the same bellhousing bolt pattern? I.e. can I put a gearbox from a 230 straight onto a 251?
  8. At the moment we're paying around $1.48 a litre. That's around $6.50 a gallon, which at the moment, is about US$6.75 a gallon. We just traded our V8 family wagon on a small 4cyl. It nearly killed me.
  9. I think it's Hughforrest that has the 2 cars, but that's OK. Mine is a 54 Dodge, pretty much the same as the Canadian models of the era. From what I've seen the suspension is all the same though. Thanks for the info.
  10. Wow, this is getting deep. I've decided to change my design a bit and go with a stem top mounting - either S1 or S3 as per the Monroe chart that was posted earlier. I'm not near the car at the moment so does anyone know what size the stock bottom mounting is? I suspect it is a 3/4" pin that the shocker mounts on. Can someone confirm this?
  11. I am an engineering type of sorts but I'm always loath to reinvent the wheel (or the shocker mount). I like to see what others have done and what has worked for them. This is what I've come up with based on designs I've seen on the web. I considered the deflection that could result under braking & cornering and decided it needed to be boxed. I did some tests with our software and it seems like the chassis may be the weakest point of the design now. Now to get them cut and welded, then tack weld them on to the chassis.
  12. The world is full of tools & unfortunately they run our countries.
  13. Alshere59, thanks for all that. I did see that one on the HAMB. I reckon I can modify the design a bit based on the dimensions I can get from the pic with the ruler. The Monroe charts are a great reference as well. Thanks
  14. I've been scouring the archives for a while now and have decided that the top shock mount is the next job on the autumn/winter list. I have a couple of questions for those who have done it. Mines a 54 model Kingsway, like your Canadian models. 1. How long (typically) are the replacement shockers? 2. What part of the stroke should the shocker be in when the car is on it's wheels? 3. If anyone has a template or photo of a mount plate I'd appreciate it. This will tell me how vertical the shocker needs to be. I think the more vertical the more efficient it works, right? Louie
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