Alshere59

Nice engine I assume the blue is your trucks color. You may want to reroute the fuel line. That rubber hose and plastic(?) fuel filter will melt if it is as close as it looks. Also you may get some vapor lock issues.

Yep pretty close. I moved here after retiring from the Military 2 years ago so I wasn't here for those tornado's but have read and heard about them.

Power is out for a large area so probably won't get an answer right away. Hit the Bridgeton, Saint Ann area which are both by the Airport. I have a lot of family there. All of them are fine.

I would be more than a bit upset if I found anyone attempting that. Sad comment on society. Hopefully its just a few isloated incidents. Still to many though.

Thanks Dennis One last question. If I have it right it is a 3 inch diameter axle housing. So do you have the supplier for the u bolts, perches etc.

That was my thoughts as well. Not getting an eye on it is killing me. Hoping for a decent plan of attack when I can get down there. Thanks.

So what did you use to get all the brackets off? I had a family member pick up a 98 Grand Cherokee axle and he took it to a shop to see about getting the big hunks taken off with a torch. They said it would warp it and offered to put new axle tubes on it. I have just looked at pics so I know its a lot of metal but??? Anyway the best option is angle grinder, new tubes, Die grinder? My thoughts are just work slow and move back and forth. Torch then grinder. I haven't done it yet though. Also how much time are we looking at just for the clean up of all that metal? Yours turned out well. So any advice? Al

This is what my brother suggests for a paint job on my car.

Nice car if I only had the spare money, storage etc. I like these also. http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/2330878669.html Love the hump back http://dayton.craigslist.org/cto/2300270167.html

A couple of other questions for those that may know. On a 1950 Plymouth P20 stock rear end what is the pinion angle with perches level and what is the distance from the center of the axle tube to the center of the U joint. I just bought a 1998 Jeep Cherokee rear and as it was by my family they picked it up. So roughly 250 miles away. The idea being if I can get them the measurements they will have it ready to slide under the car. I used the info from Blueskies site awhile back to get a drive shaft made. It shows the u joint is the same as a Cherokee. So if the distance from the center line of the u joint to the axle is close All I should need to do is bolt that part together. The rest is just getting the the pinion angle and shock mount welded on right. Oh and cut off all that extra metal. Anyone with with a 1950 Plymouth axle sitting around that could answer these questions? Al

So what is the lowest we should go with a three speed with OD? 3.54? 3.73.. Assuming a 218 or 230 motor running fairly healthy.

About any of the rebuild kits are good NAPA Autozone etc. These are fairly eay carbs to do. Just make sure you get them clean. I highly reccomend a good dunk in cleaner like the link below. https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=MCR6402_0006414466

Yep there is a gear and a spring for that shaft. Another clock for parts or a repair shop would be the only way to fix it. If the shaft is missing someone took it apart already so the odds of it working are a bit slim. I would probably gut it and mount a modern clock mechanism in it. Then just put a knob in the hole to make it look right.

Yep once you Fid it just replace it. Its easy.

I haven't. I did try a pressure bleed using a garden sprayer converted. I have removed the check valve on the original master cylinder and installed residual valves. Results were front was good the rear just dribbled. I do not have a pressure guage yet so that may be an issue. My question is, if it won't bleed under pressure how would an IV type work? I think even fire wall mounted MC have pressure/check valves.

My suggestions in order Visual inspection: 1. Is there any sign of leakage at the wheels? Wet spot normally either running down the wheel of may be a splatter pattern going around the inside of the rim. 2. Is there any sign of leakge on the lines going back and forth to the master cylinder? Pay attention to the rubber lines going to each side of the front brakes and rear axle. No then go to 3. 3. Is there brake fluid in the master cylinder? Just open the cap and make sure its at least a 1/4 inch below the cap. 4. Push the pedal down slowly while the cap is off. a. Any resistance? b. Fluid level drop? c. Can anyone one hear the shoes moving in front or back pick one. Spouse or friend can do this? 5. Nothing above applies we need more information. Possible solutions.: 1: Leaks on wheel? Replace or rebuild wheel cylinders. 2: Same as above fix leaks. 3. If it is low add fluid. 4. a. No resitance and no drop in fluid level or no movement of brake shoes heard rebuild/replace master cylinder. c. If you hear it move or can feel some resistance while rotating the wheel while on jacks. Then adjust brake cylinders. You did get a manual right? So if you made it this far and adjusted the wheel cylinders do you have any brakes even a little. Then bleed brakes. If you have nothing then get someone that can help.

Just something to check. Are the shocks the right length and are your springs broke? Mine broke right at the bend going into the lower pocket. So I never seen it. If you decide to go a bit deeper. I just finished my whole front end. It was a bit nerve racking and I had the kingpins pressed in and out at a local shop. So that part I avoided. The control arm bushings and assembly I did myself. Measuring everything using the attachment as a guide helps allot. That and a lot of pictures. For checking camber I just used a magnetic angle gauge and got it within tolerance. Matter of fact all the alignment shop did was toe, everything else was within tolerance. I even had the negative camber I wanted for radials. Take your manual they wont have your settings in all likelihood. Springs I got from Espo and the ride height went up but not sure how much as I didn't find out I had a broken spring until I disassembled so no before measurement. It broke right where it enters the lower pocket and was buried in crud so may want to check that. The car sits level now so the rear springs were left alone. The only od thing I ran into was the kit I bought from Kanters had a different size socket needed for the bushings than what I took it apart with. I also found two bad shafts. Or at least I was unable to thread on the bushings by hand when I test fit everything. Went on about half way then locked up tight. One lower and one upper. So in the long run it would have been cheaper to get the whole kit or "deluxe" kit if you buy from them. Now that it is done it wasn't bad. At the time yea, I was feeling a bit uneasy. All in all, I have done harder, just as I never have done a complete front end I wasn't real sure of myself. No special tools other than a bar clamp to maintain the spread. A pic of mine now that its done.

I was refering to other posters. Sorry if it was taken other wise.

So anyone know of one that would fit? I'm willing to try it.

Has anyone ever fit a temp controlled clutch fan to a Flathead? Or know of one that may fit? Just thinking it may save gas and some noise.

To save time can the interested parities please just read this thread instead of reposting it all again. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=26455 I like post 38, 39 and 43. Seems to sum up the whole thing well. So why repeat ourselves.

Well I wasn't until now.. Thanks and sweet dreams. grumble grumble. LOL

When you ask about the bottom mount for a 50 plymouth its an L1 or 5/8th. The rest are given in the earlier chart. You have two vehicles so not sure which you are asking about.

Thanks for the info Marty. What size tires are you running?

Love this type of thread. As posted earlier I replaced mine due to addition of new springs. With that said I can only get 6.625 inches of travel with the shock I used. With a ride height of 14.5 inches (measured between shock mounts) that left me with almost 4 inches travel down and roughly 2 + a bit inches up. With no spring my suspension traveled a lot more than any shock available could. There is just not enough travel. I did my purchase with a compromise. Then added a higher control arm bumper so that I had a half inch of rubber for the shock to bottom out before it reached its compressed length. Old dodge has a point, I have seen a few broken shock mounts but never on my vehicle. So whats the consensus. Shock bottoming or can't handle the stress of dampening the bump? I don't see a big issue with it extending. I have been wrong before. With Hughforrests shock mounts I would probably weld the bolts making them studs. Should be the same as an F1 mount then. It looked good then and now just needs some more rigidity. IMHO. Is there anything to gain from a complete rework? Cant find any frame damage on the forum from welding the mounts but haven't been here long and no searches get me anywhere. So I can't speak to that at all.