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Found 9 results

  1. A previous owner hacked up the sheetmetal behind both of my marker lights. Why? Who knows? As a result, I have no idea how the sheetmetal should be behind the marker lights or how the marker light wiring and sockets should project through the sheet metal. Also, did Dodge use a grommet to seal out water where the wiring comes through the sheetmetal? Can someone with a 51 - 53 Pilothouse post a good photo of the sheetmetal behind the markers? Once I know how it should look, I'll weld up the hole damage, figure out how the wiring goes through, drill a new right-sizedhole for the wires/sockets, and then repaint the damaged areas. I should have just fixed it from the get-go. Driver Side From Front of Grill... Driver Side From Back of Grill... Passenger Side From Back of Grill With Marker Light Installed...
  2. Did 1951 - 53 pilothouse marker lights come with silver reflectors behind the bulb? Or was the inside surface of the housing painted white (or something else)? And did they come from the factory with amber or clear bulbs?
  3. Hello all i do not seem to have any interior lights. No dash lights (switched the toggle back and fro) no back seat headliner light. Tried to remove the bezel but couldn't get it off. Don't want to break it. Opened and closed the door. Flicked the little switch in the back seat on drivers side Tried with head lights on and off. They work. Break and signal lights work. Is is there a special procedure for removing the dash bulbs behind the console? Arg...
  4. On my 48 deluxe dodge my headlights do not work but I have right turn signals and the license light stays on along with my tail lights any help where to track grounds? My break lights do not work as well
  5. My dash lights are dim. If I have my 42 Dodge out at night, I can see the speedometer and gauges but not really see the numbers and needles I have the dash dim switch set to the maximum setting. And all my wiring is new. Should I be chasing the ground of the dash board? Is there a certain spot that it grounds or would it be any and all places the dash bolts to the car?
  6. Couple questions based on pictures below: Is proper light operation for the parking lights to go off when headlights are on? This is how mine works and based on the switch/wire orientation it appears correct but is not how most "modern" cars work so I'm just curious. I don't have a pic handy of the originals but my tailgate had two red reflectors, probably 3" or so in diameter bolted to the bottom of the tailgate in the area where you may be able to see the holes. Where these original equipment or possibly added later? Is the mirror pictured OE or added later? Also, should there be an inside rearview mirror or were these optional? My truck only has a driver's side sunvisor which I've learned is probably correct but I don't know about mirrors. There doesn't appear to be any provisions for mounting one.
  7. I wonder if anyone can help me with some brake light wiring questions. I finally decided to add an extra pair of brake lights to my stock 41 Plymouth P-12 coupe. It originally only had the single, trunk mounted light, which just doesn' cut it in modern traffic...too many times people don't notice me braking. I added two NOS 6 volt "Guide Lamp" style lights with red lenses on the rear bumper, and connected the wiring to the existing single brake light wire. I installed 6 volt, 20 watt halogen bulbs. It worked fine initially, but eventually blew the single 30 amp fuse in the main lighting circuit. Following some on-line tech tips, I tried re-routing the hot wire from the brake light switch directly to the solonoid on the starter, and installed a 20 amp in-line fuse. This bypasses the main light circuit and keeps the central fuse from blowing, but when I tested the brake lights for several minutes I noticed that the ammeter now jumps way to the positive side and the brake light housings get so hot they literally start to smoke! Is this an issue with the halogen bulbs themselves, or is re routing the hot wire to the solonoid a bad idea? Should I just ditch the halogen bulbs and go back to regular (dim) bulbs, and/or switch the wiring back? Maybe I'm the dim bulb here.....
  8. My '49 has a single interior light, at the rear above the rear seat/rear window. The metal trim ring doesn't appear to have any visible screws holding it in place, and neither did the glass. I just wanted to check the light bulb to see if it's burnt out or not. It appears to have a manual switch on the inside of the B-pillar. How do you get in there to check the bulb?
  9. Just thought I would post some pics of my bullseye headlights being changed to new reflectors with a mount for a Halogen bulb fits 6 or 12 volt. I bought some Bosh headlights and broke the lenses out of them. Then you just clean the silicon off. Still need the bulbs and relays as they are not here yet. I did end up cracking one prying the metal from around the edge. So the next one and a replacement went into a mild acid solution and did the reverse of the Rust Removal using Electrolysis. So my headlight was connected to the positive lead on my 6 volt battery. Also I used some muriatic acid I had left over from the pool that I diluted with water. So 2 thirds water 1 third acid. Everything done outside. Total time to eat away the lip holding the glass was about 5 hours. I had a baking soda bath waiting for the headlight after it came out of the bath. Then used the rest to neutralize the acid. So anyway that where I am currently If you have never heard of the rust removal a link is below. I just reversed the connections so that it ate away my headlight. The electricity goes mostly line of site so I had a big washer right in front of the center of the lense. http://antique-engines.dickerson-design.com/electrol.asp
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