Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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Be optimistic. Next year you’ll drive your car there.
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Greg it sounds like I have a crack in the manifold somewhere. The car gets louder after it heats up like it’s expanding. I’m confused because I was careful with the installation during the rebuild. I didn’t tighten the 4 bolts holding the intake and exhaust together until the whole assembly was fastened to the block. I also retorqued after a few heat cycles. It wasn’t as bad today but I did install my spare carb and I spent time tuning everything. I should have been more specific about the symptoms. I had to keep giving it throttle for it not to stall and with the M6 trans that’s tons of fun lol. Heat riser and choke are operating properly.
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I’m going to check the carb today. Keith the carb is recently rebuilt. Would a vacuum leak cause problems after the car is fully warmed up? The problem starts after I’ve been driving for a while. I’m going to check settings and see if I can locate any leaks. I also have another rebuilt carb. If all else fails I will swap and see if that helps.
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Had a rough running problem with my Coronet. One cylinder had half the compression of the other 5. There are 500 miles on the rebuild. Turns out the intake valve wasn’t sealing properly. I fixed the problem but another issue I was having was that after being at operating temperature for a while the engine doesn’t want to idle. The two issues showed up at the same time but I’m not sure if they’re related. It’s always tricky for me to differentiate between fuel and ignition problems. I definitely fixed the low compression issue and the valves are all adjusted to spec. Any thoughts?
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Thanks everyone.
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Does anyone know if the gasket between the air cleaner and carb is supposed to be a cork ring? I’ve always had a homemade gasket there but there’s a cork ring that seems to be the right size for it in the gasket kit I got for the engine rebuild.
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I use an Airtex E-8902 on my 52 Coronet with 6 volt system. I still have the mechanical pump. I use the electric pump for priming after the car hasn’t been started for a while and for hot starting. I wouldn’t recommend using starting fluid any more than absolutely necessary.
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Good for you! Glad it’s working.
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These old Mopars are very capable as daily drivers. More maintenance is required but they’re much easier to work on.
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Keep asking questions. There is a lot of knowledge here.
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1949 plymouth special deluxe p18 1st oil change
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Fram C134PL or Napa 1080 -
ANSWERED Lost Compression on #3 and #4 Cylinders
Doug&Deb replied to dwest999's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Could be either. I’m in the same boat but mine is a fresh rebuild with 500 miles on it. Pull the valve cover and rotate the engine by hand to see if the valves are moving. With two low cylinders I suspect the head gasket more than stuck valves. Have you checked the oil? A blown gasket will cause the oil to be milky looking. Good luck and keep us posted. -
1949 Plymouth SD goes *blaaaaah* when accelerating
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
A bit north of me. Unfortunately I’m fighting a problem with my Dodge and that’s my weekend project or I’d be glad to help. Do you have access to another carb? Even if the linkage won’t hook up it might tell you something. -
1949 Plymouth SD goes *blaaaaah* when accelerating
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Any one barrel should bolt on but I would rebuild the original carb myself. Where in western Pa are you? I’m near Scenery Hill. -
Be careful with the fluid coupling. Pull the trans straight back. You don’t want any side load on the fluid coupling. Before removing the clutch assembly place wooden wedges between the clutch and coupling and use wire to hold them in place. You don’t want to crack the carbon seal. If you remove the trans you can pull the engine and bell housing as a unit.
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1949 Plymouth SD goes *blaaaaah* when accelerating
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I’m not sure about the bushings. I’ve never had to replace them. I don’t think that carb would cause your problem. It has a dash pot that you don’t need with the manual transmission. It might be worth while to rebuild the original carb although you have to wonder why it was pulled in the first place. -
1949 Plymouth SD goes *blaaaaah* when accelerating
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
That’s odd that you have that carb on a Plymouth. That’s normally on a Dodge with fluid drive. Try this test. With the engine running spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb. If the idle picks up there is a leak. It could be worn throttle shaft bushings or a leak at the base gasket. -
Check eBay and Facebook marketplace. I see distributors on there frequently. Best to pull yours out to get the number off the tag. Don’t forget to turn the engine to tdc first. Don’t ask how I know lol
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I second what Rich said about the pin in the fuel pump. That just happened to me.
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Mopar certainly wasn’t thinking that nuts like us would be wrenching on their stuff 70 years later or they would have used different fasteners. Try heating them if possible. I know they’re for a boot so be careful. Let them cool down. Try tightening with your impact first then loosen. Slotted screws are a bear when they get stuck.
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I hope to.
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Thanks Rich!
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Does anyone know the model number of the original fuel pump for my 52 Coronet? I’m going to a swap meet this weekend and I’d like to find one to rebuild.
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Check linkage adjustment first. Hopefully that’s the problem.
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Partially. I’ve had intermittent problems with the old engine also. The old tank was definitely leaking on the top in a few places and there’s a fair amount of floating things in it. I’m glad I replaced it although I’m planning on having it repaired. I’m also glad I knew what to look for when it still didn’t run properly. I’m also glad the pin didn’t completely come out and cause damage. I’ve only got about 500 miles on my engine.
