Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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With my rebuild I ran it on a test stand with only water in the cooling system. After I was satisfied that all was well I drained it completely until I installed it in the car. I recommend using antifreeze no matter how little you plan on running it. The last thing you want is to forget and leave water in it once it gets cold out. A cracked block will definitely ruin your day. I agree with running it up to operating temperature so you know the cooling system is working properly. It also keeps condensation from forming in the engine.
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I’m in southwest Pa not far from Pittsburgh so if I can help let me know.
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I have a 52 Coronet with the same transmission and they don’t climb hills fast lol. With that transmission you can floor the accelerator at any speed below 35 mph and it will kick down to 3rd gear. Then just lift off the gas to up shift when ready. I have both the mechanical pump and an electric pump that I only use as needed for priming purposes and vapor lock. I doubt you’re starving fuel but without knowing the particulars of your setup I can’t advise you.
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Good tip. Thanks
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I have a 52 Coronet with a Stromberg BXVES carb. There is a brass bushing on the air horn that the dash pot piston goes through. Mine keeps coming loose and I’m wondering what I can use to get it to stick in its place. It’s a press fit that’s not tight enough anymore. I’ve tried using fuel resistant permatex but it’s not holding. Just a nagging little problem I’d like to fix. It doesn’t seem to affect the drivability at all.
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Since I installed a Scarebird kit on my Coronet I only have left hand threads on the left rear wheel. That’s always fun to remember.
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How old are these points, condenser and rotor button?
Doug&Deb replied to Cooper40's topic in P15-D24 Forum
On my last Dodge I decided to replace all the tune up parts and after much frustration I ended up with all the old parts anyway lol. -
How old are these points, condenser and rotor button?
Doug&Deb replied to Cooper40's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Before buying new components try filing the points and reset the gap. You may be surprised to find they still work. Honestly the new stuff is pretty hit or miss. I went through 3 or 4 condensers before I got one to work. I’d check any wires in the distributor and replace as needed. -
If you have any doubts at all about any brake components replace or rebuild them. You can’t put a price on safety.
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Servicing the u-joints wouldn’t be a bad idea. Also, when changing the clutch if you didn’t get the driveshaft on exactly how it came off that could cause a problem. It’s best to mark the orientation front and rear before removing it. Try removing the front of the shaft from the trans and rotating it 180 degrees. If that doesn’t help then try doing the same on the diff side.
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Which electric pump are you using?
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The service manual will tell you what gauge wire you need. Rock Auto sells a reprint manual fairly cheap. They also show up on eBay and Facebook marketplace if you want an original.
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It keeps the idle from dropping too quickly when you come to a stop. Dodge intended the car to be driven in high gear without shifting. When you come to a stop you don’t need to disengage the clutch. The dash pot keeps the car from stalling. There is an adjustment on the stroke of the piston. The spec should be in the service manual.
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It’s problematic with the semi automatic transmission. I believe a resistor is required. Check the technical archives on this site. I think this has been covered. I also went back to points after a bad experience with Pertronix so use caution.
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I’m thinking the input shaft may be sticking in the bushing. I’m going to try loosening the bolts holding the inspection plate to the bell housing and re-tighten the trans. Perhaps I don’t have a completely straight surface. After that I’ll check the clutch adjustment again. I’m using a mish mash of parts so that may be the issue. Right now shifting into low range then reverse is working but that’s a band aid fix. My idle speed is 475 and the transmission operates normally. With the transmission in gear and the clutch disengaged I can definitely hear something spinning. The sound goes away in neutral.
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There are bias look radials available that will fit properly and are the correct height. They are not cheap however but it’s an option. Because of the design of the wheel you may or may not need to run tubes. When I had my D24 I ran radials on the original rims with no issues or leaks. My 52 Coronet has 15x7 police wheels which allows for a larger tire that matches the height of the bias tires.
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The tune up parts that are available are terribly inconsistent. I went through 4 new condensers before I got one that worked. Also I would check the wire to the points to make sure it hasn’t come off.
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In Pennsylvania they pull two wheels to check the brakes. I’d love to see them try to pull a rear drum lol. Thank goodness for antique plates. I normally drive my Coronet around 3500 miles a year. I’m able to use it for all the things PA mentioned fortunately. I rarely get to go to any shows or cruise nights.
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Check your speed with an app on your phone. Sometimes the problem is the speedometer not working properly.
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I have the M6 semi automatic transmission so I don’t know if that method will work. It’s worth a shot though. I’m also going to play with the clutch adjustment again.
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Your car has a 3 speed transmission with the fluid coupling. It doesn’t self shift. It can be driven like a normal manual transmission or simply shift into high gear and drive like that without using the clutch. Of course acceleration is very slow that way lol.
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I’m still having issues getting my Coronet into reverse. I now shut off and shift into reverse then restart and back up. Not the best solution but better than chipping a gear tooth. I was reading an old Chilton manual and in the DeSoto section it mentions using a straight edge to align the bottom inspection plate to the bell housing. Apparently I missed that step. My question is whether loosening the bolts on the inspection plate and tightening the trans mounting bolts would pull it into alignment or do I need to remove the trans to align the two?
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I don’t remember the brand. I believe it’s Spectra but I bought it a few years ago. I’m not sure where it’s assembled. Made in Canada is cast into it. It’s definitely worth fixing. I think there may be a crack in the pump that’s currently on the car. The adapter fitting for the outlet never seems to tighten properly so I’ll fix the pin and replace the cracked one.
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I’ve heard about fuel pump pins walking out and it finally happened to me. Fortunately it didn’t completely come apart so no damage. What I found that shocked me was that it’s made in Canada. I know we’ve all been bitten by cheap Chinese parts but this was unexpected. The pump appears to be well made except for the pin. Go figure.
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The pump is wired with an inline fuse and it failed. It’s been in the car since I got it 10 years ago so I don’t know if there’s a problem or time just caught up with it. The electric pump isn’t my primary pump but it would have gotten me home. I’m trying to figure out how it vapor locked so bad. My first thought was a stuck heat riser but it’s working fine. I put some aluminum foil on the fuel line and a few wooden clothes pins. I’m going to stick with some local trips until I figure it out. I’ve been fighting this car since I swapped engines and I’m about ready to throw in the towel.
