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Doug&Deb

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Everything posted by Doug&Deb

  1. Great work! Patience pays off.
  2. My Coronet needs a prop to keep the hood open. The springs don’t hold at all anymore.
  3. Are you sure the wheel isn’t splined? I’ve never seen one that isn’t but I’m not familiar with the older stuff. Mine is a 52.
  4. Greg my other distributor is correct for 49-50. I forget the number but the correct one is the IAT4011. Both work equally well. All I need to do now is adjust the points gap. My dwell is 28 and should be 36-38. That’s what I get for using a feeler instead of my dwell meter.
  5. The basic body shell is the same I believe.
  6. As the saying goes 90 percent of fuel problems are ignition. I checked the fuel system and even installed my other carb. No luck. I also have a second distributor although not technically correct for my 52. That solved the problem so I’m going to install some tune up parts in the original distributor and see how that goes. Thanks for all the advice.
  7. I don’t believe there’s extra payload. They were designed for door to door salesmen so more volume than weight. If your engine still turns freely a new head gasket and bolts may be all you need to get it running again. Not overly expensive.
  8. Greg I’ve never gotten above 17 inches on the vacuum gauge no matter what. My vacuum port is on the intake manifold behind the carb if that makes any difference. I’m going to dig into it tomorrow. I did take a quick test drive and it still stumbled until around 50 mph then it’s fine. No power pulling a hill through. I do have a 2nd carb. If nothing else I can switch fairly quickly to see if that helps.
  9. Be careful drilling through the plug. You don’t want to drill into the bulb.
  10. Los, the tank is new as well as the filter but I’m still going to check for dirt first. I recently had my dwell meter hooked up and everything was fine. Still things to check though.
  11. I haven’t done anything recently. The idle is fine. I’ll start with the basics. I haven’t looked at it yet. I used the car to run an errand last night and noticed the problem. I’ll get into it this weekend. Rich I hadn’t thought about the choke sticking. I’ll add that to my list.
  12. It runs but at lower speeds it runs ragged but smooths out at higher speeds. It’s weird because it ran great last weekend but I’ll check the accelerator pump and float. It’s a starting point and that’s what I needed. Thanks!
  13. I know this has been covered before but I’m having trouble finding it in the tech archive. I’m having a low to midrange stumble with my 52 Coronet. Can anyone point me in the direction to diagnose this? The carb is a Stromberg BXVES that has been rebuilt in the last 1000 miles with ethanol resistant parts. Thanks.
  14. The gunk on the bolts is thread sealant. All of the bolts go into the water jacket. Remember to use sealant when you install the new bolts. Also after installing the new gasket you need to re-torque the bolts after a few heat cycles.
  15. As always Rich, thank you for your diligence.
  16. Dan I ruined the choke on my D24 years ago because of not having the gasket. After replacing the choke and using a gasket I had no issues. I think it’s necessary for proper heat transfer for sure.
  17. Dan make sure to make a gasket for under the choke assembly. High temperature gasket material works. The original gasket was asbestos which is a no no.
  18. Tire size makes a difference also. The original bias tires were tall and skinny. You can’t mount a large enough radial tire on the original wheel to match the height.
  19. Congratulations on getting it running! Your questions are never stupid. That’s what this forum is for. We all help each other. Keep us posted on your progress.
  20. Glad you got it fixed Tom. It’s usually always electrical.
  21. How about cleaning the points on the governor. I’m probably reaching here but I agree that these units are pretty bulletproof. Try the Imperial club. The troubleshooting manual covers both up shift and down shift problems. It’s usually something simple with these.
  22. Tom when my Coronet had that problem it ended up being the wiring for the transmission. Do you have the troubleshooting manual? The Imperial club website has it available for download. It’s more comprehensive than the service manual. In my case a previous owner had spliced in new wires for the transmission but it was too small of a gauge. If that’s your issue the transmission harness is available.
  23. The shaft is solid from the wheel to the box which dictates the position in the cabin.
  24. From what I remember the key switch should be on the right side of the steering column. Where your key switch is should be a push button for the starter. Perhaps the toggle switch is the starter switch now.
  25. For the fluid coupling Mobil DTE light circulating fluid ISO32. For the transmission AW32 hydraulic oil works well for me. The Mobil fluid is available from Grainger and isn’t cheap but has been verified by another forum member as being correct.
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