Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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Good score Rich! I need to start shopping with you. You always find the good stuff.
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Set the idle speed at 450-500 so the transmission shifts properly.
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Nice work! It compliments your interior.
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You may be on to something PA. The dash light for the ammeter and fuel gauge went out about the same time as my problem started. At one point I reached up to try and find the bulb (unsuccessfully) . I may have jostled the wires and fixed the electrical connection. Dodge didn’t make it easy for someone with back problems to get to anything under there.
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If I’m reading it right it shows the same part number for both 1246 402.
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I believe the convertible is shorter. I’m at work but I’ll check my parts book when I get home and get back to you.
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Best way to flush / clean radiator. Not installed.
Doug&Deb replied to rcl700's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Just be careful with the radiator shop. Your car has a non pressurized system and if they pressure test it bad things happen. -
That’s what I needed. Thanks
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Yes I’m checking voltage with the key in the run position. Continuity testing is difficult due to the armored cable and the fact that I can’t get the switch to drop down far enough to get easy access to the terminals. 52 Coronet by the way.
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I’m trying to determine if my ignition switch is bad. How much voltage drop is acceptable?
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I don’t know if this helps but my 52 Dodge manual calls for 16 gauge wire unless specified.
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Thanks Frank. I forgot about that end of the harness. You even have the rubber boot on yours. Mine is long gone.
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Sorry forgot one. The last picture shows the wires to the dashpot and the Sisson choke.
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The first picture shows the double yellow wires to the kick down switch. The second is the circuit breaker that controls the transmission. Next is the back side of the kick down switch where the wires attach. Next is the dashpot. Finally the kick down switch. The plunger is activated by flooring the accelerator at any speed under 35. Hope this helps.
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More
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Here’s more.
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That’s definitely not what you need. Let’s see if these pictures will help.
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I’ll be in the garage either Saturday or Sunday and I’ll try to post some pictures of the carb and wiring.
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There are three wires to the carb. Two wires go to the electric dash pot on the front of the carb. On the driver side are two wires into a single male connector. This goes to the kick down switch. I would imagine any carb from a semi automatic equipped car should work. That wire harness is available separately from the main harness if you need it.
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Tennessee Clutch
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I’m not trying to talk you out of converting to 12 volt but I’m wondering if getting everything working as designed first would help. At least you can enjoy the car for a while and decide if you want to convert. It would also give you time to research and gather the necessary parts. Search the technical archives on this site as well. Several members have done this conversion successfully and you can get some ideas. Good luck.
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My ignition switch is directly above the ashtray. Even though it slides out the assembly that it slides on is in the way. I’ll have to investigate further. If anyone has a 51 or 52 Coronet I can sure use the help.
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Chrysler and DeSoto used a Carter I believe but I don’t know which one. The Stromberg BXVES isn’t hard to find and rebuild kits are available.
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Good idea. Will do.
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Thanks. I’m checking wire connections first then I’ll decide if I need to remove the tumbler assembly.
