Doug&Deb
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Posts
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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I’m still fighting a fuel starvation problem with my Coronet. One thing that was mentioned is the vent in the cap. I understand that a clogged vent is bad but what about too much air getting past the cap. My cap is original and fits loosely. The cork is mostly gone. There’s also a bit of leakage around the sending unit. It’s a new tank and gasket but seeps when I fill the tank. Could either of these be causing any issues?
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Thanks guys. Decisions decisions.
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I know some of you are using the Carter P4259 pump successfully. I’m not here to debate the merits of electric versus mechanical but I’m curious about whether anyone using this has a newer pump. Mine is made in China which is a concern. I’m not sure yet if I’m going this route but after fighting a fuel problem for a few months I’m considering it. Any thoughts on the reliability of the new pumps?
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Make sure whatever you get contains ethanol resistant parts. I use Daytona carb kits for my Stromberg.
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Any idea when they did away with that? I know the post war cars didn’t have that.
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That’s way different than my 52. That’s the coil wire? Interesting.
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Try the flathead 6 group on Facebook. The admin there can id the engine.
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I used the stock master with the residual valve removed but I added two inline residual valves. Two pound for the discs and ten pound for the drum. Because of the position of the master I was concerned about getting air in the system. I’ve had a Scarebird kit on my 52 Coronet for five years now with no issues.
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Possibly the horn relay? Doesn’t a lot of the wiring run through it? I agree with voltage drop testing as others have mentioned.
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That pump is definitely worth rebuilding with ethanol resistant parts. Then and Now Automotive has kits.
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Can you post some pictures? It might help someone else do this mod.
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Try going back to the original valve lash specs. The service manual recommends.002 larger on the exhaust valves for high speed driving. I’d also suggest a leak down test and compression test as well as checking all your tune up specs. Beautiful car by the way!
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Rock Auto has lots of parts for our cars also.
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Sam sometimes when a coil is going bad it fails when it heats up. Your suggestions are valid also. Fuel and ignition problems are so interconnected sometimes.
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I certainly hope Pertronix got it together. Their product used to be first rate and I always want small companies to succeed. Unfortunately once I have a bad experience with something I’m hesitant to give it a second chance.
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I’ve decided to run a line to remove the mechanical pump from the system and run on the electric pump to see how it works. I’m suspecting a crack in the pump housing is causing the problem so this is an easy way to test it. DCPD1941 I sure hope the coil is the problem and the new one fixes it. I know that frustration.
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Los I think it’s the mechanical pump also. It’s a new one but I think it’s cracked somewhere and heat is causing the crack to open enough to cause problems. I found two older pumps in my parts stash. I’m planning on rebuilding one and trying that. If that doesn’t work I may just go with an electric pump and eliminate the mechanical pump altogether.
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Tod, it’s new fuel injection hose which is better quality than standard fuel hose.
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Keith I have an Airtex E-8902 pump that’s been on for several years now. I think it’s the same one you have on your Plymouth. It’s possible it’s causing the problem but I doubt it.
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Another update. I drove to work today with ambient temperature in the low 50’s. Got almost to work before it acted up. It’s weird. It seems like the pump is sucking air but it took 16 miles to show up. I would think a leak in the line would cause problems all the time.
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Be aware that some of us have had problems with Pertronix. I installed one on my 52 Coronet and it worked three times and burned up. They refunded my money quickly but I’ve stuck with points since then. The older units work great but quality seems to have slipped recently.
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Sorry Keith. What I experience is a loss of power. Turning on the electric pump gets it back quickly. I haven’t had to pull over yet. It’s a complete lack of throttle response. I should have been more clear in my original post.
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Stock 6 volt positive ground. New tank and all lines metal and rubber. New fuel pump also. Pivot pin hasn’t moved so that’s not the issue. The carb is a cheap swap meet find and I haven’t done anything to it yet but I don’t think the electric pump would cure carb issues. I did have to tighten the inlet and outlet fittings on the pump. I once cracked a new pump by over tightening the fittings so I’m always worried about that. I probably didn’t have them tight enough. Tomorrow isn’t supposed to be so hot so I’ll see how it goes.
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As an aside, my engine temperature is 160 and the fuel line from the pump to the carb is as far away from the manifold as possible and insulated. The heat shield is in place also.
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Keith it’s high 80’s and humid so definitely a factor. I changed the coil just for the heck of it. No improvement. I checked the pump while the car was running. I thought maybe the pin was moving. I noticed that the fuel in the sediment bowl was full of bubbles. The car actually stalled while I was under it. I got it started with the electric pump on and the fuel in the bowl was back to normal. No bubbles and a good supply. It runs great with the electric pump on so for now that’s the solution. I definitely understand why people switch to electric pumps on old cars. Ethanol gas really sucks.
