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Doug&Deb

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Everything posted by Doug&Deb

  1. Doug&Deb
    Stock 6 volt positive ground. New tank and all lines metal and rubber. New fuel pump also. Pivot pin hasn’t moved so that’s not the issue. The carb is a cheap swap meet find and I haven’t done anything to it yet but I don’t think the electric pump would cure carb issues. I did have to tighten the inlet and outlet fittings on the pump. I once cracked a new pump by over tightening the fittings so I’m always worried about that. I probably didn’t have them tight enough. Tomorrow isn’t supposed to be so hot so I’ll see how it goes.
  2. Doug&Deb
    As an aside, my engine temperature is 160 and the fuel line from the pump to the carb is as far away from the manifold as possible and insulated. The heat shield is in place also.
  3. Doug&Deb
    Keith it’s high 80’s and humid so definitely a factor. I changed the coil just for the heck of it. No improvement. I checked the pump while the car was running. I thought maybe the pin was moving. I noticed that the fuel in the sediment bowl was full of bubbles. The car actually stalled while I was under it. I got it started with the electric pump on and the fuel in the bowl was back to normal. No bubbles and a good supply. It runs great with the electric pump on so for now that’s the solution. I definitely understand why people switch to electric pumps on old cars. Ethanol gas really sucks.
  4. Doug&Deb
    Today I had a problem with my 52 Coronet. It just drops to idle while driving. It feels like vapor lock. Turning on the auxiliary electric pump cures the problem but I’m still confused why it started happening again. I fought this issue a few months ago and thought I had it fixed. I’m also wondering how hot is normal for the coil. I checked it after I got home and it’s hot but not to the point that I can’t touch it or have to remove my hand. Is that normal or is that part of the problem? I’m not sure how the electric pump would fix a bad coil though. Still thinking fuel issue. Any thoughts?
  5. Doug&Deb
    I also endorse custom made cables. A local shop that specializes in automotive electronics made them and rebuilt my starter. Definitely cranks faster. Also adding ground straps will help. They can be hidden if a factory look is important.
  6. Doug&Deb
    If I remember correctly removing the housing is the only way.
  7. Doug&Deb
    Most of the bulbs are available. I’ve gotten some from RockAuto.
  8. Doug&Deb
    Unfortunately you can’t unless you dyno the car and find out the horsepower. I have the same situation. The engine I rebuilt for my 52 Coronet came out of a 51 Coronet but decoding the numbers revealed it to be a 58 truck engine. It had all the correct ancillary components from the car so only the short block is the 58 engine. I feel a slight improvement from the original engine but that could be my imagination.
  9. Doug&Deb
    Higher compression mostly. Possibly some changes to the timing also. Improvement was made incrementally until the end of production of these engines.
  10. Doug&Deb
    To the original question. The engine in my 52 Coronet came out of a 58 D100 truck. It didn’t have a fuel pump and I ordered the same one you got from Bernbaums. It’s worked fine so I don’t believe it matters which one you use. I’m not sure why the truck used a different design.
  11. Doug&Deb
    What driveline? Stock or modified? Nice looking car!
  12. Doug&Deb
    Your original pump looks like a truck application. Check Bernbaums and Roberts for a truck pump. Also there’s a flathead group on Facebook. The admin can tell you what engine you have based on the numbers.
  13. Doug&Deb
    You would be better off rebuilding your original pump than replacing it. The pins on the new pumps have a tendency to walk out. I’m currently running one from Andy Bernbaums and it has epoxy on both ends of the pin.
  14. Doug&Deb
    I had a bad experience with Pertronix. It worked three times and burned up. They did reimburse me quickly but I’ll stick with points. Of course you have to be careful about that also. Lots of junk available.
  15. Doug&Deb
    It’s not uncommon to have this problem. The ethanol gas boils at a lower temperature than the old gas did so it’s essentially boiling out of the carb. Many of us have added an auxiliary electric fuel pump that can be used to push gas through the carb to combat the problem.
  16. Doug&Deb
    Be careful what you buy online. I’ve seen line advertised as nicop really cheap. It’s actually copper coated.
  17. Doug&Deb
    I believe it’s 3/16 and the ends are 1/8-27 npt pipe.
  18. Doug&Deb
    That looks like the same piece my D24 had.
  19. Doug&Deb
    I have the same transmission jack lol. It’s definitely a plus with that heavy transmission. Where are you sending the fluid coupling for rebuild? I have a 52 Coronet and I may need that in the future. Take your time and fix anything that needs fixing while you have the space especially any safety issues. Be aware that coupling is heavy and awkward and the nuts are not easily accessible. Keep us posted.
  20. Doug&Deb
    I can’t say the Carter carb won’t work. I’m just going by experience of owning a D24 previously and having parts cars. All had the Stromberg. Dodge fluid drive from 46-48 was the 3-speed with fluid coupling so any carb with a dash pot will work. Also no matter which carb you use the idle speed needs to be 450-500 rpm’s. To the original post, your car won’t shift automatically. The fluid drive allows you to start in third gear and not disengage the clutch when stopped. I normally drove mine like a conventional manual transmission but used the fluid coupling in town.
  21. Doug&Deb
    The correct carb is a Stromberg BXVD-3
  22. Doug&Deb
    Thanks guys. I’ll contact Then and Now and go from there.
  23. Doug&Deb
    While going through some old parts I found two fuel pumps. One has a tag stamped rebuilt 588. It’s missing the sediment bowl and the bale. The other has a tag stamped 705. It has no provision for a sediment bowl just a plate bolted to the bottom. That one was in a box marked Carter M847. With the problems with pins walking out on the new pumps I’d like to rebuild these. I’m not sure what kit to order for the 705 pump. Both of them are definitely used. I had a 49 D24 from 2001-2013 so they’re from that era. Either one should work for my 52 Coronet.
  24. Doug&Deb
    Better to rebuild the original. Try Then and Now Automotive for rebuild kits. The new pumps have a problem with the pivot pin walking out.
  25. Doug&Deb
    Try The Carburetor Doctor. I’ve used them before and their prices are reasonable. The kits contain ethanol resistant parts also.
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