Doug&Deb
-
Posts
1,217 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Links Directory
Profiles
Articles
Forums
Downloads
Store
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Classifieds
Everything posted by Doug&Deb
-
Since I installed a Scarebird kit on my Coronet I only have left hand threads on the left rear wheel. That’s always fun to remember.
-
How old are these points, condenser and rotor button?
Doug&Deb replied to Cooper40's topic in P15-D24 Forum
On my last Dodge I decided to replace all the tune up parts and after much frustration I ended up with all the old parts anyway lol. -
How old are these points, condenser and rotor button?
Doug&Deb replied to Cooper40's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Before buying new components try filing the points and reset the gap. You may be surprised to find they still work. Honestly the new stuff is pretty hit or miss. I went through 3 or 4 condensers before I got one to work. I’d check any wires in the distributor and replace as needed. -
If you have any doubts at all about any brake components replace or rebuild them. You can’t put a price on safety.
-
Servicing the u-joints wouldn’t be a bad idea. Also, when changing the clutch if you didn’t get the driveshaft on exactly how it came off that could cause a problem. It’s best to mark the orientation front and rear before removing it. Try removing the front of the shaft from the trans and rotating it 180 degrees. If that doesn’t help then try doing the same on the diff side.
-
Which electric pump are you using?
-
The service manual will tell you what gauge wire you need. Rock Auto sells a reprint manual fairly cheap. They also show up on eBay and Facebook marketplace if you want an original.
-
It keeps the idle from dropping too quickly when you come to a stop. Dodge intended the car to be driven in high gear without shifting. When you come to a stop you don’t need to disengage the clutch. The dash pot keeps the car from stalling. There is an adjustment on the stroke of the piston. The spec should be in the service manual.
-
It’s problematic with the semi automatic transmission. I believe a resistor is required. Check the technical archives on this site. I think this has been covered. I also went back to points after a bad experience with Pertronix so use caution.
-
I’m thinking the input shaft may be sticking in the bushing. I’m going to try loosening the bolts holding the inspection plate to the bell housing and re-tighten the trans. Perhaps I don’t have a completely straight surface. After that I’ll check the clutch adjustment again. I’m using a mish mash of parts so that may be the issue. Right now shifting into low range then reverse is working but that’s a band aid fix. My idle speed is 475 and the transmission operates normally. With the transmission in gear and the clutch disengaged I can definitely hear something spinning. The sound goes away in neutral.
-
There are bias look radials available that will fit properly and are the correct height. They are not cheap however but it’s an option. Because of the design of the wheel you may or may not need to run tubes. When I had my D24 I ran radials on the original rims with no issues or leaks. My 52 Coronet has 15x7 police wheels which allows for a larger tire that matches the height of the bias tires.
-
The tune up parts that are available are terribly inconsistent. I went through 4 new condensers before I got one that worked. Also I would check the wire to the points to make sure it hasn’t come off.
-
In Pennsylvania they pull two wheels to check the brakes. I’d love to see them try to pull a rear drum lol. Thank goodness for antique plates. I normally drive my Coronet around 3500 miles a year. I’m able to use it for all the things PA mentioned fortunately. I rarely get to go to any shows or cruise nights.
-
Check your speed with an app on your phone. Sometimes the problem is the speedometer not working properly.
-
I have the M6 semi automatic transmission so I don’t know if that method will work. It’s worth a shot though. I’m also going to play with the clutch adjustment again.
-
Your car has a 3 speed transmission with the fluid coupling. It doesn’t self shift. It can be driven like a normal manual transmission or simply shift into high gear and drive like that without using the clutch. Of course acceleration is very slow that way lol.
-
I’m still having issues getting my Coronet into reverse. I now shut off and shift into reverse then restart and back up. Not the best solution but better than chipping a gear tooth. I was reading an old Chilton manual and in the DeSoto section it mentions using a straight edge to align the bottom inspection plate to the bell housing. Apparently I missed that step. My question is whether loosening the bolts on the inspection plate and tightening the trans mounting bolts would pull it into alignment or do I need to remove the trans to align the two?
-
I don’t remember the brand. I believe it’s Spectra but I bought it a few years ago. I’m not sure where it’s assembled. Made in Canada is cast into it. It’s definitely worth fixing. I think there may be a crack in the pump that’s currently on the car. The adapter fitting for the outlet never seems to tighten properly so I’ll fix the pin and replace the cracked one.
-
I’ve heard about fuel pump pins walking out and it finally happened to me. Fortunately it didn’t completely come apart so no damage. What I found that shocked me was that it’s made in Canada. I know we’ve all been bitten by cheap Chinese parts but this was unexpected. The pump appears to be well made except for the pin. Go figure.
-
The pump is wired with an inline fuse and it failed. It’s been in the car since I got it 10 years ago so I don’t know if there’s a problem or time just caught up with it. The electric pump isn’t my primary pump but it would have gotten me home. I’m trying to figure out how it vapor locked so bad. My first thought was a stuck heat riser but it’s working fine. I put some aluminum foil on the fuel line and a few wooden clothes pins. I’m going to stick with some local trips until I figure it out. I’ve been fighting this car since I swapped engines and I’m about ready to throw in the towel.
-
I’m a little confused. Your title is M6 seal yet you have a Plymouth correct? Are you ordering based on the M6 or the Plymouth? The M6 is the semi auto trans and is completely different from the manual 3 speed. I’m not trying to be smart just clarifying what you need.
-
For the first time in the 10 years I’ve owned my 52 Coronet I had to be towed home. I was half way home from work when it died. Fortunately I was on a back road and a local gentleman pulled me into a parking area. The car would only run as long as carb cleaner was being sprayed. Of course it didn’t help that my electric fuel pump isn’t working at the moment. The best part is after getting it home we had some work to do setting up for a benefit event so it sat for about 3 hours. Afterwords it started right up! Now the investigation begins.
-
I’ve noticed that more people use old Mopars as daily drivers than other brands. I drive mine from March through November usually.
-
As an update I found that the gasket between the manifolds has failed. That explains the vacuum leak and the louder exhaust sound. I’m puzzled by the failure. I was careful about the installation remembering to only finger tighten the 4 bolts until the manifolds were fastened to the block. I’ll do some checking before re-installing. Hopefully that’s the last of the gremlins (except for the electric fuel pump no longer works).
-
As the engine warms up the vacuum drops slightly. I’ve already removed the manifold from my old engine and I have the necessary gaskets so that’s my next project. Learning how to rebuild my engine was both rewarding and frustrating. I’m seeing light at the end of the tunnel so hopefully this is the last project. My idle speed is about 600 until the engine gets hot enough then it drops to 450 or so. Once I get the leak fixed I’ll set everything back to normal.
