Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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I use an Airtex E-8902 on my 52 Coronet with 6 volt system. I still have the mechanical pump. I use the electric pump for priming after the car hasn’t been started for a while and for hot starting. I wouldn’t recommend using starting fluid any more than absolutely necessary.
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Good for you! Glad it’s working.
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These old Mopars are very capable as daily drivers. More maintenance is required but they’re much easier to work on.
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Keep asking questions. There is a lot of knowledge here.
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1949 plymouth special deluxe p18 1st oil change
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Fram C134PL or Napa 1080 -
Could be either. I’m in the same boat but mine is a fresh rebuild with 500 miles on it. Pull the valve cover and rotate the engine by hand to see if the valves are moving. With two low cylinders I suspect the head gasket more than stuck valves. Have you checked the oil? A blown gasket will cause the oil to be milky looking. Good luck and keep us posted.
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1949 Plymouth SD goes *blaaaaah* when accelerating
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
A bit north of me. Unfortunately I’m fighting a problem with my Dodge and that’s my weekend project or I’d be glad to help. Do you have access to another carb? Even if the linkage won’t hook up it might tell you something. -
1949 Plymouth SD goes *blaaaaah* when accelerating
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Any one barrel should bolt on but I would rebuild the original carb myself. Where in western Pa are you? I’m near Scenery Hill. -
Be careful with the fluid coupling. Pull the trans straight back. You don’t want any side load on the fluid coupling. Before removing the clutch assembly place wooden wedges between the clutch and coupling and use wire to hold them in place. You don’t want to crack the carbon seal. If you remove the trans you can pull the engine and bell housing as a unit.
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1949 Plymouth SD goes *blaaaaah* when accelerating
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I’m not sure about the bushings. I’ve never had to replace them. I don’t think that carb would cause your problem. It has a dash pot that you don’t need with the manual transmission. It might be worth while to rebuild the original carb although you have to wonder why it was pulled in the first place. -
1949 Plymouth SD goes *blaaaaah* when accelerating
Doug&Deb replied to Oliver Klozoff's topic in P15-D24 Forum
That’s odd that you have that carb on a Plymouth. That’s normally on a Dodge with fluid drive. Try this test. With the engine running spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb. If the idle picks up there is a leak. It could be worn throttle shaft bushings or a leak at the base gasket. -
Check eBay and Facebook marketplace. I see distributors on there frequently. Best to pull yours out to get the number off the tag. Don’t forget to turn the engine to tdc first. Don’t ask how I know lol
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I second what Rich said about the pin in the fuel pump. That just happened to me.
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Mopar certainly wasn’t thinking that nuts like us would be wrenching on their stuff 70 years later or they would have used different fasteners. Try heating them if possible. I know they’re for a boot so be careful. Let them cool down. Try tightening with your impact first then loosen. Slotted screws are a bear when they get stuck.
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I hope to.
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Thanks Rich!
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Does anyone know the model number of the original fuel pump for my 52 Coronet? I’m going to a swap meet this weekend and I’d like to find one to rebuild.
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Check linkage adjustment first. Hopefully that’s the problem.
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Partially. I’ve had intermittent problems with the old engine also. The old tank was definitely leaking on the top in a few places and there’s a fair amount of floating things in it. I’m glad I replaced it although I’m planning on having it repaired. I’m also glad I knew what to look for when it still didn’t run properly. I’m also glad the pin didn’t completely come out and cause damage. I’ve only got about 500 miles on my engine.
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Finished installing the new tank from Auto Metal Classic. The hose was a beast but I got it. Unfortunately the car still wouldn’t run without the electric pump so I decided to check the mechanical pump and discovered the dreaded walking pivot pin. The pump on the old engine saved the day so that project is done.
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The trans will up shift without the electrical connection but won’t downshift. I second the Imperial website. Also a service manual will have the wiring diagram for the transmission.
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Eneto-55 that is the hose I’m referring to. Getting it pushed onto both the tank and the filler tube is the problem. I’m going to try the soapy water method for that and the grommet on the fender.
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Rich that’s where I got my hose. It’s just really hard to push on either one. It’s sort of like installing u-joint boots.
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Installed a new fuel tank from Auto Metal Classic. The problem I’m having is the short hose between the filler neck and the tank. I have to use all my power to get it on one or the other but I can’t figure out how to connect both. I’m thinking boiling it then using vasoline. Since the hose has wire in it I don’t know if that will help. Any suggestions?
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There is a super massive black hole under my car. It sucks up fasteners at an alarming rate.
