Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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I’m thinking my problem is the aftermarket gauge. I put a meat thermometer in the radiator the coolant is 180. The gauge read 195-200. Time to wrestle the factory gauge out and see about fixing it.
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Thanks, i may try that.
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Rich the engine was rebuilt about 13,000 miles ago. I have good flow from the block drain. It’s actually the only way to drain the radiator cleanly. Water pump and hoses are good. New aluminum radiator. I was getting lower readings with my infrared thermometer so I suspect the aftermarket temperature gauge may be off. I’m going to try sticking a meat thermometer in the radiator and see what it shows. I’m not overheating just running hot.
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My temperature gauge is broken so I have a Stewart Warner gauge under the dash. Seeing the actual temperature as opposed to a needle halfway up the gauge can be disconcerting. I’m probably overthinking things as usual lol.
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With a 180 thermostat my Coronet ran between 190-200 . In July I installed a 160 thermostat as an experiment. It cooled the engine too much. Today I installed a new 180 thermostat and realized that the 160 had failed which explains why it ran about 140. With the 180 I’m back to 195-210. Ambient temperature was about 55-60 today so I’m wondering if that’s just the normal temperature for my engine.
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Thanks James! Your input is always appreciated.
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I removed the clutch and fluid coupling from my spare engine as a unit after installing wood wedges and safety wire. What precautions do I need to take to remove the clutch assembly from the fluid coupling. I need to assess what I need to do with the clutch.
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My son and brother and their families live in Florida. All are okay thank God. It’s just part of living there.
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Beautiful car!
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Moore’s In South Dakota is a possibility.
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The chrome button to the right of the steering wheel is the starter. Turn the key on, hold the gas pedal halfway down and push the button. What year is your car? We love pictures here. I’m not sure about the button on the floor. Windshield washer perhaps? When I say to hold the gas pedal down I’m assuming an automatic choke. If it’s a manual choke hold the pedal part way down and pull the choke cable out then hit the starter button.
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This problem got me paranoid since I have a Chinese pump on my Coronet. I just checked mine and so far it’s okay. For those of us who don’t have an original style pump to rebuild, are there any vendors you all recommend. I’m rebuilding a spare engine and it’s missing the fuel pump. I’ll jb weld the one on the car but I’d sure like a better option if any are available.
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The device circled is the circuit breaker located on the air cleaner brace that runs from the cylinder head to the air cleaner housing. Rhode Island Wiring and YNZ Wiring sell the Gyromatic harness. I don’t know the technical specs but try the Imperial club website. They have the original troubleshooting manual and other technical publications available for download. I also have a 52 Coronet so if I can help I’d be happy to.
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1951 Dodge Meadowbrook Brake Drum Interchange
Doug&Deb replied to 51_Meadowbrook's topic in P15-D24 Forum
They should be but I’m not certain. I feel your pain. I did a disc brake conversion because it was less expensive than a decent drum. Dodge was the only Mopar with studs and nuts. Try Moore’s. They’re a Mopar specific salvage yard. -
Makes sense. I sometimes feel like James Bond laying a smoke screen. It does keep people from tailgating lol.
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I understand that worn valve guides cause smoke from the tailpipe while decelerating but I don’t understand why it takes 20 minutes or so of driving to start. Is it the oil thinning out because of the heat? Obviously the guides weren’t replaced during the rebuild. I’ll do better next time lol. If this thing didn’t leak and burn oil I wouldn’t know what to do.
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You can have 10 identical cars and every one will have a different starting ritual. I think they’re all possessed lol.
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Adding an electric pump would be cheap insurance. I use one for priming after sitting and to combat fuel percolation on hot days. Or simply replace the mechanical pump with electric.
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Kelsey Hayes rim on '48 DeSoto: OEM or aftermarket?
Doug&Deb replied to Art Bailey's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I don’t think they were OEM for 48. Perhaps they’re from a later year car. Mopar used those throughout the 50’s. I believe the bolt pattern stayed the same for many years also. -
Been there done that lol. Good luck
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Awesome job! Happy anniversary!
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Keith, I was watching one of your engine rebuild videos and I had a thought on your cooling system issues. Your engine in the Plymouth is a 1953 with internal bypass. It was originally designed for a pressurized system. Perhaps changing the radiator to one that can be pressurized will cool down the engine. Just my 2 cents worth.
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Rusty Hope and Scarebird are the ones I’m familiar with. I have a Scarebird kit on my 52 Coronet and I’m very happy with it. A previous owner changed the wheels so I don’t know about the track width. I didn’t make any changes to my suspension. I’ve put almost 10,000 miles on with no issues so far.
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Sounds like you’re on the home stretch with the project. Can’t wait to see pictures.
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A filter near the tank is best. Adding an electric pump would help for priming the system after the car sits.
