Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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The difference is the fuel bowl and strainer. The 52 pump bowl is on the bottom and the 58 faces up and is off to the side. It’s probably a clearance issue. I have an old pump. When I’m at that point I’ll check fitment before I buy a new one. I just wondered if anyone else has used a newer flathead. I got this engine from a 51 Coronet and I found out the true identity after running the engine number.
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The engine I’m rebuilding for my 52 Coronet is a 58 truck engine. I’m researching both the water pump and fuel pump. Both years show the same part number for the water pump but the fuel pump is different between them. I’m guessing I should stick with the pump shown for the 52. Any suggestions?
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Same to you and your family my friend.
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Got my engine back from the machine shop. Unfortunately I have 3 more weeks of hernia surgery recovery before I can get started. The engine is a 58 truck motor that has been bored.040 over. Should give my Coronet a bit more pep.
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The Mopar semi auto trans is the only old trans that doesn’t have specialized repair available. At least none that I’m aware of. Perhaps they are more robust than most.
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Marty send me your address. I found an extra solenoid in my unorganized parts stash. I’ll gladly put it in the mail tomorrow.
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I must be crazy because I just make sure the tires are aired up and the gas tank is full. I’m sure that’s going to bite me some day.
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I believe the pins can be driven further in. I’m pretty sure that’s how I removed the bell housing from my engine.
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An electric pump close to the tank would be a good investment also. It helps with starting after the vehicle sits for extended periods and helps with fuel boiling after a short shutdown. This isn’t a substitute for correcting your problem but it would get you home if needed.
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Radials will work on the original rims but the tires will be shorter than the original bias tires which throws off the speedometer. I have 15x7 Mopar police wheels on my 52 Coronet with 225/75R15 radials. The size matches the height of the bias tires and the speedo is correct. I’m currently running the dog dish caps but I’ve used the original wheel covers on those rims also. You just have to bend the tabs to get a tight fit.
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Keep us posted. Feel free to ask any questions. We all learn from each other here.
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I use AW32 hydraulic oil in my Gyromatic. The choke is wired to the starter. When cold starting the car press the gas pedal halfway down and turn the key. If you don’t have a service manual I highly recommend getting one. I can’t help with pre oiling the engine or break in oil but others here can help with that.
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I stand corrected Marty. The solenoid should be available. I can’t point you to a specific vendor. It may be cheaper to find a used carb and use it for parts. I’ve found them at swap meets. Depending on where you live that may not be an option right now.
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When you get to the car check if you can put the shift lever into 1st gear position. With the Gyromatic you have 2nd 3rd and reverse. 1st is blocked. Also the Gyromatic trans has a governor and solenoid on it. Coronets usually came with the Gyromatic but I’ve seen exceptions. Also in 70 years you never know what changes have been made.
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That’s it. It is expensive. They are available used and are easy to rebuild. I’ve found them anywhere from $5.00 to $40.00. The kick down switch and dashpot don’t normally go bad although they sometimes need a little cleaning. The carb I’m using was put together from 4 different carbs plus a rebuild kit.
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That looks like a Stromberg BXVD-3 which is correct for the 3 speed with fluid coupling. It’s not correct for the Gyromatic.
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The anti stall or magnetic dash pot keeps the idle from dropping too quickly which allows you to stop the car without disengaging the clutch. Try googling for a rebuild kit. The brand I used is from Daytona but I can’t remember the vendor I bought it from. I’m not sure what horror stories you’ve heard about the Gyromatic. I daily drive my Coronet from April through November and don’t have problems. It can be finicky to get dialed in but if I can do it anyone can lol. I believe there is a Carter carb for the semi auto trans. Chrysler and DeSoto used them. The Stromberg BXVES is correct for your car though.
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It may restrict movement. They’re meant to fit one way.
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Generic carb linkage clips are what I used. Take the link to your local parts store. Be mindful that there are left and right clips.
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I believe the torque converter shares engine oil.
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The carb should be a Stromberg BXVES. The magnetic dash pot is on the front of the carb and 2 wires attach to it. The kick down switch is on the rear of the carb and is activated by the throttle linkage. I’m at work so I don’t have pictures but if you google that carb you’ll see what I mean. It’s possible that you have the wrong carb.
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Also I recommend the Imperial club website. They offer repair and troubleshooting manuals for download.
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Beautiful car and scenery!
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I doubt that is included with the harness but it should be available. Try eBay. Don’t get sticker shock. Electrical parts for these trannys are expensive.
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No problem. Glad to help. Feel free to ask any questions.
