Ivan_B

Use a tiny wire brush (the ones made for dremels) to clean it, laying on a flat surface. It will be good as new

Actually, the U.S. is rather one of the more civilized places when it comes to road safety. So, don't worry, it can get much worse ?

Can't you make that contact (going to the bulb) disassembled some more and get a new wire in there?

Sure, and most of the crashes (if I recall correctly) are caused by the human factor, not the equipment. I am far away from the aviation industry, so maybe this was a bad example. Going back to cars, however, there are plenty of court cases (after people got injured or died), thought the years, revealing that manufacturers sometimes know about certain deadly defects in their products, etc., but choose to ignore the problems for cost-saving purposes. It's true that airplanes are probably a bit more regulated, though I was just making a point that cost reduction is a very important factor in mass production.

I've had, but I know nothing about the quality of workmanship and the materials used so it is unknown what was the cause. I would probably advise against mimicking the mass manufacturing, mainly because their main priority is cost reduction, as much as possible. Same goes with all new inventions, unfortunately. I suspect that many new techniques and materials get a bad reputation not because of their inherent qualities but because they allow greater cost reduction (poorer product quality, but still functional). If a plane goes down, now and then, its not a big deal unless a) they can be proven to be at fault b) the risk and magnitude of consequences outweigh the savings, and c) they do not have other safeguards in place, such as regularly requiring to replace all these parts anyway.

This is correct. This reminds me of some 70-years old wires in a residential building, copper, tied together. There was a good ~2 inches of contact between them. This is exactly what the tube testing video demonstrated. Although, I suppose for a more applicable testing, they should've passed some high current through the wires and measured the resistance/voltage drop/heat, etc. Just curious, are there any disadvantages of LED lights, besides the cost? ?

She was referring to her freshly lacquered nails... ? This is clearly an Off-topic thread, by the way.

Not sure about a Woodie, but the regular door handle (we are talking about the front arm rests, I assume) is attached by two machine screws, one on each side. Should be visible from below. Some of them you can even twist up and remove, no need to take the screws out. Do you have a picture of your handle, from the bottom?

Sure. And, of course, using a car that does not need re-wiring is even more convenient Okay, I actually did a brief research on these, they do solder. Appear to be not as strong when compared to the normal soldering, though: Of course, you would not expect that kind of force to be applied to your wires in the car... However, this could be the conservative talk\type, but are these really more convenient in comparison to the regular soldered joints? Are they only available for straight crimps? What about t-splices, and all kinds of other weird configurations? What about different terminal connections? What about not frying the rest of the harness while working with the heat gun in a tight space? Also, if you are re-doing or repairing the OEM harness, this would not really look appropriate with the transparent insulation etc. This would be my greater concern Exciting new technology? Sure, but is it really useful at home? I don't know. How difficult is it to use the soldering gun? ?

These are supposed to be "heat-shrink soldering", why is there a crimper on the main banner? ? I was under impression that these shrink (including the metal ring in the middle) but do not actually solder. If they actually solder, I would sure like to see the outer insulation jacket removed, and the soldered connection exposed for inspection, after the fact ?

Okay, that actually makes sense

The car appears to be in rough condition Do you have experience restoring junk-yard vehicles? If not, this is going to be a very interesting project. Why would you buy something like that, from abroad (no parts, etc.), in the first place?

Technically, the new grease is expected to go in and come out from the other side, pushing the old grease + dirt out of the joint. So, if you push but do not see the grease coming out from anywhere except the zerk or your gun connections, it is not good

Even a tight thread is not completely tight to hold pressurized liquids, etc. Think about all those fittings where we use the thread sealant so that they do not leak... If the grease is not going in, there must be something in its way. Despite the fact that the bushing is still rotating, I can see where the new grease passage could be blocked. I would still try to use light oil to dissolve and wash-out what ever could be stuck in there. Try threading your grease gun directly into the zerk hole to see if you can apply some extra pressure to this joint this way.

Yes, I've read that. As you've said, one would expect some grease holes/channels along the threads but, apparently, Chrysler engineers had a different design in mind

That sounds like a bare battery, on its way out... I would check the voltage straight out of the generator, and go from there to see where it gets lost. Do you have the wiring diagram for your car? That really helps to take out the guessing work from your troubleshooting As for no continuity, check if you have it with both meter leads on the same side of the single contact\connector. Some of my contacts have some kind of aged oxidation on them, so you don't always get a connection for the meter leads unless you scratch the contact or push the sharp point hard to the metal. Just make sure that the line is really broken, before you start taking things apart. If you think that the line is really broken, try jumping it with a temporary wire, to see if it changes anything (a wiring diagram is really helpful, at this point, to make sure that you do not connect things that are not supposed to be connected).

Not sure where the grease is supposed to go in this joint, etc., but if it is stuck, try to take out the zerk and spray some WD 40 in there, a few times. It should go through, eventually. Once it does, grease it to push the old stuff + WD 40 out. Repeat every 1000 miles, or seasonally, to keep things in good condition Also, the Chrysler master tech video shows the car being greased-up with the wheels in the air. And I suspect that this is the default position (on the lift). On my car, you cannot even reach the rear upper fittings with the car on the ground. If the joint is a complete no go, there are things you can attach to the fitting and hammer on it to push the liquid oil through at high pressure. I just greased my suspension, yesterday. Despite owning a couple classic cars before, this was actually my very first complete grease job ? All of the fittings took the grease right in, and seemed to be well lubricated before. On one hand this is very good, on the other - there was absolutely no change in ride quality, afterwards ?

I don't believe e-bay is very popular in Europe. The same is probably true for the English language, outside of just a few countries. Not sure who the listing is for. Foreign cars would be somewhat more expensive, considering the shipping cost. Unless it was an original dealer import, of course.

Is my eyesight getting poor or, for that kind of money, they could not even make the body panels gaps the same on both sides? ?

That's an interesting way to have fun with your money, and brag about it on the internet ?

This is nice. I also played with a cheap amazon scope, a while ago. Very interesting to take a peak inside the engine

Thank you for the write-up. Your "Bulbs" bucket is mislabeled, though ?

I assumed you've performed some troubleshooting before fixing the generator, etc.? What seems to be the problem, now? Is the battery continuously discharging while idling in the garage? Does the generator voltage rise when revving the engine? What kind of voltage are you getting (at the battery) at idle versus revving? Can you please provide a bit more information about the observed symptoms, besides the fact that the battery goes dead while driving? I do not believe that the old wires, per se, would cause the battery to discharge... ?

If you look at the same pipe for the in-line 6 engine, you will notice exactly the same configuration of the openings. I suspect that the openings are not aimed directly onto the exhaust valves, but are rather evenly spaced-out throughout the block to provide more even coolant circulation to the working engine in general. Later: actually, the above assumption might be incorrect, since the engine diagrams seem to show the openings directly where the valves are ?

Were these "carefully colorized" by a neural network? There are obvious mistakes\blemishes on most of these photos... ? These cars, in their day, were brand new, so there is no surprise that they were taken everywhere across the country and abroad under all sorts of driving conditions.