Ivan_B

I am 😃 Any particular reason you want 12 volts? Just because "everyone does it" does not mean you have to. For example, I always wanted electronic ignition, the reason being - I did not know how to properly service the points. Once I got around to actually learning how it operates, I am totally converted. Absolutely no need to put one into a car that is running perfectly fine with the OEM setup. Or, you can simply get a 6 volt to USB converter for the iPhone and a proper adapter for the stereo (unless it is actually using 12 volts). I am running my AM transmitter and an MP3 player of a tiny 6 volt USB power supply.

I've been away for a month, still have to put them new radiator hoses with an inline filter back together so more content is on its way 😇

The author is from Florida, why are you "Frenching" him? ?

You need to make sure the wheel itself is centered, first. Rotate all the way to the right, then to the left, and count turns. Return the wheel half way back (straight ahead, thereby centering the steering box) and then adjust the rods so that the wheels are also straight ahead, using string and tape measure. If the wheel itself is not straight after you center the steering box (unlikely, unless someone removed it in the past), also adjust the wheel.

I am still using 84-year old mounts, for everything... Got to get those replaced, at some point ?

Good point, that is very true. Same with taxis... ?

Already posted, 7 days ago ?

Quick question: is this also applicable to 40 Ply? My lines look like they are 1/4 all the way ?

There you go Try going through the linkage adjustment process, described in the manual.

Are you able to shift when the engine is turned off? How about when you manually move the levers under the car? If moving the levers by hand is not a problem, the linkage must be at fault.

But did you see the extra nuts? ?

It says "Australia" and gives an address at the bottom of the flyer. ?

Well, you still made an offer, so it wasn't totally bad. The few cars I've seen, the last time I was looking, were a total no-no

Well, makes sense. I just don't like adding a lot of aftermarket stuff to the car, so a smaller inline filter seems to be more appealing than a full-size remote one (unless it is hidden under the car). I am just experimenting, for now. The strainer is about $15-20, it is a metal screen, so you just unscrew the bowl and flush it. The valve and fittings are probably another $20. I'll see how it looks and work. If I don't like it I'll remove it. A proper remote coolant filter appears to be a more involving setup. Maybe I'll do it later

That was also my first impression - probably a fake police car, hence all the extra cost ?

And that will probably be the same story with a good majority of the vehicles you see, regardless of the price range and advertising condition. Have you been looking for a while, or was this a random impulse decision? Always ask the far-away seller for more pictures. The ones that tell you that the car is in great shape, etc., and then find 101 excuse why more/better/larger pictures are unavailable - are full of "nonsense" Show winner - means nothing (unless properly judged, etc.), since most people cannot tell a difference anyway, as long as the paint is pretty... We have some rather bad cars on the floor at the local classic car museum, for example. Always beware of the pretty new paint.

Thanks for looking into this. I've done some tube research, and it seems that there are at least a few people, out there, who use filters on cars. The most common seems to be a fuel filter (or an oil filter with a remote flange) on a heater hose setup. The solution I will try is a pressure sprayer strainer with a spin down bowl, which is easier to clean. Apparently, the household sediment filters/strainers are not rated for the required temperature. The sprayer strainer is rated at 140-150F but at high pressure. Without pressure it can hold greater temperature (there is a confirmed use case for coolant filtering). The finest I've found is 200 mesh (74 microns) and this is what I'll try (people report good results with even coarser mesh). The only down side is I have to order parts. Tractor supply sells these, but they are non-transparent (not fun ) and I need the matching color valve, adapters, clamps, etc., to make it look reasonably acceptable under the hood... I'll be back with a report after a while.

Come on, guys, this is not funny... The above statement actually made me stop and think, for like ~3.5 seconds... ? This must be a long awaited "hello" from the Chrysler engine casting techs. No other ideas how it got there.

Another great find from inside the engine: This was tucked inside the head, behind the spark plug holes. I incidentally stumbled upon it, when feeling the perimeter of the thermostat opening, for debris, with my finger. Hopefully, I did not pull anything important ?

Hi Joe, You are basically describing a standard acid flush. I did not dare to do that, just reverse-flushed the block, radiator, and the heater with tap water, and then with distilled water (to get the tap water out/diluted). I did get some muddy water from the radiator, at first, which cleared overnight to reveal some calcium deposits. The antifreeze that I drained, produced no sediment, so this is good. I might use the acid, next time. I wasn't even planning to flush... Just wanted to replace the old hoses ? You are right, though. The fact that virtually no manufacturer installs coolant filters probably suggest that this is not necessary... As long as you flush the system and change the coolant regularly.

Has anyone used these? I am thinking about installing an inline coolant filter, to catch debris remaining inside the cooling system. I did a quick water flush, but that does not get rid of all the contamination inside the system, and I do not have the means to disassemble the engine, etc., to do a proper cleaning, at this time There are specific automotive filters available, that go into the top radiator hose. But these have a rather large mesh (not very effective) and I do not really want to mess-around with the radiator flow. How about putting a regular bowl water supply filter/strainer into the heater return hose? These have a considerably smaller meshes and the bowl might even clean some smaller sediment. I just need to find one rated for boiling water. Do you think it will filter much at the heater line? ?

I believe that the author is experiencing exactly the opposite symptoms ?

That might be a different issue. Are we talking about idle or driving? How about the engine temperature? Did you do anything to the car before it started running poorly? Could be even non-carb related

What's going on, you press the pedal but it ain't going? Or something else? Check the accelerator pump and float level. These two things, alone, probably take care of the many carb issues.

Not on these, apparently (which I did not even know, because my older model has a simple aluminum profile), but in general