Ivan_B

Not this time. I am not planning on removing anything, just changing the thermostat and hoses. Will flush the block, radiator, and heater with water, that's all. I suspect that the block should not be that bad, since my drain was not even stuck ? At least, I'll see what the flush brings out, first.

Or the steering box.

It could, when the current working temp is below the maximum thermostat threshold, which can be the case under certain conditions. I do know about the OEM temp and efficiency, though, that's true. Anyway, is seems you guys won, this time. Here is a fresh pot test: Both old and new stats open at the same time, and both still work ? The car is running fine on the road, it's just I get nervous at a parking lot or the light when the needle starts to fluctuate toward the right. I know it is very likely still within specs, for these cars, but still... My radiator is clean on the outside. The system will be flushed today. Never heard about the paper trick to check the fan, will try that, thanks.

Carb is probably leaking, or overflowing into the intake. Could be also old cracked fuel hoses, or tank vent seeping a bit. Get a new garage door seal (I did ?).

There should be no tank in the OEM system, or are you referring to the master cylinder? ?

I do not believe that this is relevant, anymore. The author was simply asking about the number's location. He located it and confirmed that it matches the paperwork. That's it

I am hoping that it will help to keep the engine running a bit cooler (which might not necessarily be the case, depending upon a variety of factors). I like when the needle is in the middle of the gauge

Take a lot of pictures! And take someone with you, preferably a non-interested and knowledgeable party. Otherwise, when you want something, the smoke does get in your eyes... ?

Are you buying remotely? ? Sounds great. Now, all you need is a 100+ pictures and a full inspection!

Wouldn't that potentially move the car forward at a very abrupt fashion? Just like what happened before? How about we just take the clutch cover off and pry it loose with a knife or something like that? ?

No, it is definitely closed. You can easily see it on these old bellows-type stats. When its open, the bellows are expanded like an accordion ? Also, the good-old boiling pot method is still very much in use. I am planning to do it when I get the new thermostat delivered. I got the 160-degree (instead of 180) and will test them together to make sure that both work and the new one opens before the old one.

I like some parts that have sleeves\inserts from the factory. This way you can pull the old one out and just use a new one. Back to specs ?

Well, how would you restore that, paint? New plastic? These seems to be either low quality or very expensive solutions ? The skin, on the other hand, could be a good-looking alternative, especially since them wheel covers became rather popular on cars, a bit later. I was thinking about using a thin ivory leather with a simple hidden seam. Do not like those baseball or other seams with multiple threads, used on modern cars.

That is certainly true on the P10. The Engine number matches the frame number. There is also the serial number on the passenger's A-pillar, and a body number above the steering column. Does not really make any difference if the title does not match the car, does it? ?

Is that actually a crack? To me it looks like some kind of weird corrosion edge ?

So the title has both numbers listed, like a one long vin?

That is an extremely worn hub ?

Not sure. I would probably expect a different seal for the sleeve application... But then, again, I've never even heard of these in the first place.

That is true, but I suspect that you would have somewhat different symptoms when that happens. In this case, according to the TS, the car was simply started in gear and is no longer shifting, and he had to get under the hood to shift it into neutral, for some reason. Like when your shifting linkage is out of adjustment or broken ?

I am planning to make my floor mats out of this, the next time

You are right... ? I wonder what the seal manufacturers think of these, though, because I cannot image the sleeve being so thin that it actually fits within the seal seating clearance specified by the OEM.

What's a Speedi sleeve? A jacket you put on a worn hub to use with oversized seal? That groove is too much. If you can see it with your eyes, the seal will not seal properly... ? The proper way to fix that is to get a new hub or machine the existing one (proper sleeve or metal coating).

Are you planning to put on some leather skin on the steering wheel? I was thinking of having it ivory-colored, to match the knobs, but receive the wrong color leather - too dark. Goes well with my old sun-burned knobs, but not with the new ones I might get some day ?

My car was out of state, so I also had to do an official vin check. But, regardless of the state laws, you should always check the vin, etc. Otherwise, you are just transferring the title (the piece of paper) in your name, and nothing else, if that title cannot be linked to the specific vehicle at hand. So, Marko, did you find any numbers on the car?

Well, he can technically bolt a recliner to the frame and take a chance... ?