Ivan_B

You hoarders... And then people wonder where have all the engines gone... Long time passing... ?

I think people just don't realize what happens in a crash at high speed. We just don't deal with such physics in daily life. I, sometimes, catch myself thinking the same. You are speeding down the street and thinking, well, if I catch that next light pole, the car will just bounce off it or something like that... Just like if you throw a toy car around the house. I am in a metal box with full control, what can ever go wrong... But then, I have to remind myself that this is not at all what will happen in a real crash. I still remember that red asphalt film from high school driver's ed class. That was great, about half of the class did not want to drive after watching. We need more education like this for everyone. And physics, of course ?

And I bet it was funny, but not necessarily applicable to real life. I was, once, surprised to find out that there is a genuine believe among some individuals that a real man/tough guy (or whatever it is called, these days) should never let anyone offend them and must immediately retaliate against any perceived threat to set the offender straight. And people just do not seem to think it over one more step further: what will happen if two such gentlemen meet each other...

I think Todd is correct. 6-62-11 is not a part number. In the 65 catalog, this number is actually referenced as 2265 938, at the table below the diagram: https://www.manciniracing.com/mazbarbastbe1.html So we need someone to look up the part number in the 49 parts catalog. I do not have one, and don't see one readily available online

Do you really need the lights without ignition, though? I sometimes forget the keys in the ignition... The lights, radio, etc., is a given With the PO mode, at least if you get the keys out, everything is off.

That's my tactic as well. Hey, you got to do what you got to do. If you can't see well, because of them, you cannot go faster, can you? In general, you should "let the fool go"... They'll get in trouble by themselves, it won't take long, and you don;t want to be part of it. I once had a semi trying to merge into a busy highway exit right in front of me. Very rude, and he already went past the dashed line for making a legal move. So letting him in would've been the smart thing to do, but what did I do? I started honking and actually made him stop because he could not merge into my car and I would not budge. I was just very angry that day, for them rude drivers... Anyway, nothing happened, he stopped and got into the exit a few cars later. ? Speaking about trouble, I was once driving on an interstate, in a moderately busy traffic, and a motorcyclist passed be very aggressively... Street bike, no helmet, no protective gear, just shorts, long hair, and a back-pack. As I saw him weaving among the cars going further ahead, I thought: he must be on drugs or just insane... Two miles later, where the freeway was taking a 90-degree turn, I see the same bike completely flat on one side, laying next to a tall concrete divider curb. The guy is no where to be seen, because he flew over the divider ?

Is this what you are looking for? Here is the Ford part they are referring to: https://www.oneillvintageford.co.uk/acatalog/ford-pedal-bushing-01a-7526.html

I actually thought about it, today. And, although I would not do a setup like this myself, the fire hazard here is just average. I've actually looked into this, in connection to another thread on this board before. The air inside the engine bay does not get hot-enough to melt the filter. Otherwise, the rest of the non-metal parts under the hood would melt away. So as long as the filter is not touching the exhaust, it is good to go. Even if it does touch the exhaust, suffers mechanical damage, or just falls apart for no apparent reason, the exhaust manifold temperature is not hot-enough to ignite the gas at atmospheric pressure. Gasoline is certainly very flammable but it is not that flammable.

Hi Nicolas, do you have any pictures of the car to share? Did you buy the car in person or through an agent? I've used agents to look at far-away cars for me, a couple of times and, once I saw their reports, with illustrations etc., I've widely disagreed with the assessment results, for some reason. They rated the car considerably better than it actually was ? Did you already buy the service manual? It's a good read to prepare yourself for when the car gets there. What kind of questions do you have? What city are you from? I've been to Paris a couple of times

Oh, I did not realize this was a cable-operated valve, this makes sense, then. Shouldn't the valve be hard-mounted to something in this case, though, for reliable operation?

Looks right, now. Quick question: why did you decide to install a separate valve (and now have 2 extra joints in your system) when you could just use an OEM valve straight out of the back of the head? I know that this is not an airplane or a space ship, and your setup will work just as good. However, the OEM setup just seems more elegant, without the unnecessary clutter under the hood

Update: the steering box is a bit loose, I can see it moving slightly while turning the wheel. Will fix that and re-check my toe

Here are the parts you need:

I am having difficulties understanding how the rear axle would be bent that much. Also, there is probably some factory +/- tolerance, so it would be good to know what it is. Perhaps, I should re-check it, maybe I just did not measure correctly. Good point. I did not notice the box being loose, but I'll check it, thanks.

I tend use anti-seize mostly everywhere, unless the manufacturer specifies something else like thread lock or sealant

Yes, it is.

This is it. It looks like you just need to find a 45-degree pipe with the correct thread to go into the top hole, and a 90-degree heater valve to go into the back of the head The setup on my car is OEM. Not sure why you have the nipples setup around the thermostat on your engine, right now. The coolant will circulate the same, either way, but it is somewhat strange to have the nipple in a spacer under the goose neck if you have a plug with the "heater" sign next to it at the back of the head. The same goes for the second nipple spacer above the water pump, while there is an unused pipe plug right above it. Maybe some of these heaters were universal, for different engines?

Isn't that the picture of your car? The water pump spacer is where the hose is coming from. In fact, you have your loop hose connected to both spacers. You can remove these to make a stock heater setup

Keith, that does sound exciting. For some reason, I thought you were retired, after watching some of your tube videos. No offense, you just look like a person who has some extra time on their hands ? I did try to look-up the engine cold-spin process, but did not find anything except the Spintron. But that seems to be a research/testing tool, not exactly for the break-in process. The fresh engine does look well; so if all of the internal parts are up to specs, I am sure it will work as expected for a long time

Yes, that makes sense. But the TS is just redoing the wiring at this time. The oldest cluster I ever removed was a 1953, but I do not recall dealing with the oil line, etc... Maybe it was already an electric sensor-based or had no oil pressure gauge on it...

Well, it's just a thought if you have a powerful electric motor sitting around I know for sure that some manufacturers used to do this in the past with engines and other gear. I've even read the instructions for doing so on a rebuilt gearbox, in the military repair shop manual, for QA process. You were supposed to set the box on a stand, and hit it at different RPMs, for a set period of time, shifting gears, etc., to confirm that it shifts smooth, makes no noise and is not leaking.

A cold break-in is when you hook up an electrical motor to your engine and spin it, for a certain period of time, at a certain speed, simulating working conditions but without the engine actually running. Maybe I am not using the correct terminology here. This is usually done on a special stand, but can be performed with the engine sitting in a frame as well.

This setup is congruent with the previously shared diagram. But, the TS's mechanism is different. So either the 53 used different levers, or there was some "customizing" involved. ?

Are you just re-doing the wiring harness? Why would you think about taking the cluster out for this? You just need to disconnect the original wires, take them out, duplicate, and put the new ones in. I do not believe that removing the cluster is useful for any of the above ?

Update: performed a DIY toe adjustment. It is definitely better than it used to be. The car, now, still pulls a bit to the right (used to be the opposite way) but no more wandering. Also, I improved the steering wheel positioning, but it is still not perfectly straight. I think I have too much play, so I'll tighten the steering box and re-align. In conclusion, the DIY toe is definitely doable and quite fun to do