Ivan_B

Wouldn't that potentially move the car forward at a very abrupt fashion? Just like what happened before? How about we just take the clutch cover off and pry it loose with a knife or something like that? ?

No, it is definitely closed. You can easily see it on these old bellows-type stats. When its open, the bellows are expanded like an accordion ? Also, the good-old boiling pot method is still very much in use. I am planning to do it when I get the new thermostat delivered. I got the 160-degree (instead of 180) and will test them together to make sure that both work and the new one opens before the old one.

I like some parts that have sleeves\inserts from the factory. This way you can pull the old one out and just use a new one. Back to specs ?

Well, how would you restore that, paint? New plastic? These seems to be either low quality or very expensive solutions ? The skin, on the other hand, could be a good-looking alternative, especially since them wheel covers became rather popular on cars, a bit later. I was thinking about using a thin ivory leather with a simple hidden seam. Do not like those baseball or other seams with multiple threads, used on modern cars.

That is certainly true on the P10. The Engine number matches the frame number. There is also the serial number on the passenger's A-pillar, and a body number above the steering column. Does not really make any difference if the title does not match the car, does it? ?

Is that actually a crack? To me it looks like some kind of weird corrosion edge ?

So the title has both numbers listed, like a one long vin?

That is an extremely worn hub ?

Not sure. I would probably expect a different seal for the sleeve application... But then, again, I've never even heard of these in the first place.

That is true, but I suspect that you would have somewhat different symptoms when that happens. In this case, according to the TS, the car was simply started in gear and is no longer shifting, and he had to get under the hood to shift it into neutral, for some reason. Like when your shifting linkage is out of adjustment or broken ?

I am planning to make my floor mats out of this, the next time

You are right... ? I wonder what the seal manufacturers think of these, though, because I cannot image the sleeve being so thin that it actually fits within the seal seating clearance specified by the OEM.

What's a Speedi sleeve? A jacket you put on a worn hub to use with oversized seal? That groove is too much. If you can see it with your eyes, the seal will not seal properly... ? The proper way to fix that is to get a new hub or machine the existing one (proper sleeve or metal coating).

Are you planning to put on some leather skin on the steering wheel? I was thinking of having it ivory-colored, to match the knobs, but receive the wrong color leather - too dark. Goes well with my old sun-burned knobs, but not with the new ones I might get some day ?

My car was out of state, so I also had to do an official vin check. But, regardless of the state laws, you should always check the vin, etc. Otherwise, you are just transferring the title (the piece of paper) in your name, and nothing else, if that title cannot be linked to the specific vehicle at hand. So, Marko, did you find any numbers on the car?

Well, he can technically bolt a recliner to the frame and take a chance... ?

Did you at least transfer the title to yourself? Or is your state very relaxed about motor vehicle registration and does not check the vin either? These old cars do not technically have a vin, but an engine, chassis (frame), and a body number. Some of these will be the same number, depending on the model. So, you should be able to find at least one number matching to your title, somewhere. If i recall correctly, the chassis number on some cars is also stamped in several places on the frame. I can see one behind the driver's real wheel, on my sedan, for example.

Sorry, a silly question: how did you check it when you bought the truck yourself? ?

Going back to the original issue: did you order the same oil filter you had in there before? There were a few different options, available, using different filters (I believe). My engine is using Wix 51076, and I have an orange FRAM canister

I suspect that the author is interested in advise on getting the specific car, and not about the police stuff. A short story is: check everything. Especially underneath the car. If you have some pictures, feel free to share them here, we have plenty of qualified critics available

Hi Dave, Thank you very much for the reply. Your illustration is showing a correct OEM thermostat, with the main opening on top (closed when cold) and the bypass openings on the sides (open when cold). The thermostat I found must be from a way different housing configuration. Although, I checked, the way it sits inside the housing, its valves will only be able to open about half way up. So it looks like when both - hot and cold, the flow of coolant in my engine was open through the radiator and the bypass at the same time, with the radiator part becoming somewhat more restricted with rising temperature ? I already ordered an OEM thermostat, waiting for delivery. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256372276175

I believe that those are called worm gear clamps. Virtually the most common clamps, these days. I personally, prefer the t-bolt or spring clamps, for some reason. Also, I believe that spring clamps are actually technologically superior because they supply constant pressure to the hose. But the early cars have an open cooling system, so it is not like you need a lot of force to hold the clamps in place. Also, I've seen different types of clamps in different Chrysler illustrations from 1940-50. Some wire clamps had Philips screws, some had round slotted head. Once, saw a single wire spring clamp on the bypass hose ?

That should be the last option ever. Even if you need to remove the remains of the plug physically, I would first attempt to cut it up to the thread, from the inside, with a tiny saw blade. And then pry it out toward the center of the hole. I've removed some stuck bolts like this in the past. You drill it out, but at a smaller diameter, and then chisel away the old threads. If you are careful, the hole itself remains the same way it used to be

Is there a shackle in the rear? Otherwise, this leaf spring will have no place to expand under load... Could be a cool DIY lowering, as well ?

Maybe this little guy? ?