Ivan_B

Same car, already reported:

Posting ended, not sold ?

Sorry, I certainly meant the drums, assuming that we are dealing with the OEM brakes. Thank you for the correction.

One more question: are all the new components (and especially the master and slave cylinders) the correct OEM size? Some of the aftermarket cylinders might be smaller, and that will considerably increase the requisite pedal force.

No, it is not. I assume you are feeling good pressure at the pedal and it is not just going to the floor? For the very basics, I would start by making sure that: 1) bearing grease is not leaking onto the rotors 2) brake fluid is not leaking onto the rotors 3) the rotors are clean (you've probably figured it out by now) 4) the shoes match the rotors with a good (large) contact area. Technically, you should grind\machine the shoes to fit the individual rotor properly. Also, the rotors themselves should be perfectly cylindrical (verified with an indicator). The disc brakes are much less sensitive to the above problems, due to the way they function

Please check all of the bulbs, and try to remember what happened to the wiring in the replaced junction box. Is it possible to return it into its original configuration, for testing?

Thanks. The specs are available here: https://desoto.org/wp-content/uploads/wpforo/attachments/54/22950=2553-803.pdf None of the tubes, unfortunately, are compatible with my unit, so I'll have to pass. If you want to get rid of it, and no one here is interested, we can post it on AntiqueRadios forum, I have an account there.

Well, there are a few ways to get it out. First, you can probably try the heat/cold/oil and the extractor method: If that does not work, the other methods would involve physically destroying the left-over plug and potentially getting metal shavings inside the cylinder. If it's dry, you might be able to clean those out with a vacuum/magnet, etc. As a last resort - the head comes off

Do you have a picture of how it's broken? You might have to remove the head to get that fixed...

Okay, so did you fix the low beam issue? Because on the old box, I see 5x4 configuration, and the new one is 5x5 ? Does your turn signal switch has a hazard lights position as well? The fact that after messing around with the junction box, front lights started working and all 4 lights now flash, kind of points toward incorrect wiring, and a poor contact somewhere (front lights not working). Do you know for a fact that the lights still worked as intended after your replaced the junction box?

I don't see how a clutch would get stuck after trying to start the car in gear... Why did you need to get under the hood to switch the car in neutral? Wasn't the gear shift lever disengaging from the cabin no more? How do you know that the clutch is stuck? Did you verify that the disk is physically not disengaging, under the flywheel cover? Are you able to shift the transmission through all gears with the engine turned off?

Oh, come on... ? So the front lights did not work? Silly question: when you worked on replacing your junction box, how did you memorize what wires go where? Did you label them, etc.? The front junction box has the wires for the front lights in it so, technically, something can be messed-up in there, since the front and rear signals are connected together. Does your first picture displays the old junction box before you touched it? The top wire seems to be not connected to anything, is that right? What happened to it after you got the box replaced? Are you able to take a multi meter and tell us where each of the wires from the junction box is going?

Yes, the rear flashers would be connected to the front ones, at some point because I imagine that you have only one flasher and the switch connects to it either 2 left or 2 right bulbs. What else have you done with the wiring, lately? What junction box did you swap? ? Are you able to trace your rear flasher wires to the turn signal switch using the multi-meter?

Looking for a second opinion here Finally got around to replacing my coolant hoses, because the old ones had thick flakes of rust visible from underneath at the metal/rubber junction. The thermostat housing was very difficult to remove, one of the studs was heavily corroded but I managed to get it off without casualties. There seems to be plenty of dirt inside the cooling system, although, the block drain was not clogged as I expected (hi Keith ). Don't be fooled by the bright green antifreeze the PO put in. The thermostat housing has obviously been on the car for a while... The most interesting thing, I found, is this guy: Based upon the way I understand the Chrysler 201 cooling system, by default, the radiator inlet (upper hose) is closed, and the coolant is circulating through the bypass. From what I see, with the OEM housing, this thermostat appears to be working in the reverse order: the radiator inlet is open by default and the bypass is closed. Was my cooling system closing the radiator while warming up, all this time? ? Also, for the little tip of the day - here's how you drain the block without making a mess:

No snow around these parts... The temperature was in the 60s, now is in the 70s and slowly getting warmer. Might get brave and go for a swim, one of these days ?

What specific model is this? The signals were installed somewhere in mid/late 40s, I think. Some older manuals are available here: https://chrysler.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/index.html

That's what I thought. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed, or did one of the members put one inline with the carburetor? If the car has not been driven for more than a few years, I would probably avoid trying to run it with the stuff you have in the gas tank, for now We have an original engine with a carburetor, right? It does not really need much pressure to start/run, as long as the carburetor fuel bowl has fuel in it, the car should start. It will eat the bowl and stall, in a minute or two, but it should start alright.

That's probably a good idea, given the very little information provided by the TS. I'll just ask one more question: How do you know that there is no/low fuel pressure? ?

Not at all. Been there, recently, when I just got my car... ?

Good So, what have you found-out thus far, the pilot light bulb is wrong? How about if you remove both pilots, does it make a difference?

Our condolences for your loss. Does the car still have an original engine in it? Would it run of you gravity feed the carburetor? When was the last time the car was on the road? Some pictures are always welcome ?

Sorry, but not exactly ? On the provided diagram, once you turn on the left turn signal, the left rear bulb is completely disconnected from the brake circuit (at the same time) so if the bulb has a bad ground it just wont work, in this case. But you are going into the right direction. This is exactly why we've asked that you check if the problem is still there with one of the bulbs removed. The fact that it is - indicates that the other bulb is not involved in the process.

That looks like the OEM system, like what Tired iron has, doesn't it? I think OUTFXD is using some kind of aftermarket setup. The above diagram is using only the brake circuit, on the back. So you either have the light bulb connected through the brake switch (steady light if the pedal is down) or to the flasher if the switch is activated to either position. Nothing is done to the ground, the bulbs are always grounded to the body where the lamp bracket is. A very elegant and simple system, actually. I had to use 4 relays in my "custom" setup because I did not have this type of switch\wiring and did not want to use the aftermarket ones or mess-up the factory harness ?

I could probably used some spares myself, what kind of radio did you have in there? Was that a Philco? What model number? Before hording some good things it would at least make sense to make sure they are compatible with my unit

May I suggest using some oil undercoating on the inside while the interior is still out? Also, did you save the radio parts? These might still be useful for repairs of the OEM units.