Ivan_B

For the OEM setup - yes. I am running a standard transparent paper filter before the pump, and the fancy rock sponge after

@Dave72dt don't pay attention to the hose barb, this is just for vacuum testing. There will be a 90-degree fitting and a copper line going over the head, just like it is supposed to 😉 @vintage6t thanks for the picture. This appears to be the later-style 10:30 position. According to my research, the earlier cars had it pointing the opposite direction, at 4:30, and that's the problem. It does not seem to fit well this way 🙄 Ihazwings have it mounted correctly, but his distributor is different (41 had a different model number) with a liquid oiler, at the opposite side of the vacuum advance unit.

Hi everyone. 1940 201, with the stock IGS-4109-1 distributor. I finally managed to replace my old vacuum advance diaphragm, so it now holds vacuum. It's time to do proper vacuum line routing and I am having problems with the correct distributor position. When I bought the car, the coil wire tab was at 12 o'clock, the vacuum advance unit at 4:30; based upon some old pictures I found, this appears to be the correct OEM position for these cars. However, when installed this way, my grease cup is hitting the timing adjustment screw and is obstructing the block drain valve. When I removed the vacuum advance unit for repairs, I turned the distributor 60-degrees CW, so that the grease cup is in the clear, but now the vacuum advance is a bit too close to the steering box. I know, on later cars, the vacuum advance unit is mounted at 10:30 (180 degrees around). Any ideas how they managed to fit everything on the 36-42 models? 😐

Normal, I do this all the time and have both indoor and outdoor covers.

I've bought some replacement parts with the grease fittings on them, about 10 years ago. Definitely would not expect it on a new car, though. I believe that, at least some, commercial trucks still use them (because these types of parts are more durable/stronger). So maybe the Silverado wants to be perceived as a real truck? Or else, they just use some of the same parts with the big ones Is there anything about these said in the owner's manual? Like get a grease gun and lubricate them every time it rains? 🥲

Let us know what you find out 🫠

Sounds like some serious project plans. I assume that you've already considered just getting another car that already has all the desired properties and does not need so much work? 🙃 Between work and family, having a nice car you can readily enjoy is priceless.

I would not expect a slight pressure loss causing any noticeable difference for the carb. I doubt that the engine will use that much gas that the bowl gets empty and the pump is struggling to fill it due to, essentially, an equivalent of a slightly longer line. Just try putting your soft hose back on, without changing anything else, and see how it works 🙂

I am not really into hydrodynamics, much, but here is the most general rule regarding bends and flow restriction I was able to find in a smart article: Designers usually apply the general rule that a 90◦ elbow bend has a pressure drop equivalent of 30 to 50 pipe diameter lengths of straight pipe (page 40).

So, if you use your new fancy metal line + electric pump there is no problem? Have you checked your mechanical pump output and pressure to make sure it is within specs? I am only using a mechanical pump, by the way, and did not notice any issues with the fuel delivery 😏

Well, the carb usually has a reserve of fuel in the bowl, which is kept-up by the pump. The pump is generally pumping more fuel than you need, that's why we have the shuf-off float and the needle in there. I would not suspect that whatever you did to your lines is causing the carb to starve on fuel. Thus, I would look for another explanation of the observed performance problem. Maybe even not a carb-related explanation. If everything else fails, have you tried putting your rubber line back on to see if it changes anything?

I doubt that a 90-degree fitting will create a restriction of any kind, unless you did something very special. And I assure you - you are probably not that special 😁 Can you please remind us what seems to the the problem, though? Is the fuel not getting into the carb? How do you know? Did you remove the top and confirm that the bowl is not filling-up while the pump is working? How about if you manually push/blow some gas/air into your custom line from the pump's side, is it going through?

Looks very interesting, and appears to be mostly original. It's a shame they are selling a family car. Probably an older re-paint. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/669161372209475

Wrong forum... But that does look nice and cheap, which is a very unusual combination, these days 😀

The above is a modern aftermarket version. The OEM-style one should look more like this: (this image is stolen from, the internet). This thermostat has two valves moving together as the bellows expand - one to close the bypass, and the other one to open the radiator loop. I know these very well, because I had a wrong one installed in my 201 by the PO. The car would warm-up forever, and then overheat after reaching the operating temp

Are you sure that this is a correct thermostat for the Flathead 6? The top part will open-up to close the bypass. However, I am not seeing the side opening for the radiator flow🤨 Otherwise, yes, bellows are at the bottom. EDIT: the top part opens the radiator flow, while the side opening operate the bypass.

Saw on FB: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/29309839975296310 Shows obvious signs of poor repairs, but looks like an interesting project 🤔

I was under impression that the resistor is bad for the spark. The only reason those are used, everywhere now days, is to keep the RFI in check 🤨

Rich, You've already posted this in 2023: Getting a bit older? 😂

Is your 218 original to the car? If so, you might want to rebuild it instead.

Isn't this one of them dual slave cylinder drum, which is supposed to grab even better when you are going forward, or did these come about later? As previously suggested, check the MC pedal free play and adjust each wheel. When you lift the wheel off the ground, it should spin freely each direction, preferably with no dragging at all. Also, if you have not already done so, it might be useful to take the drums off and make sure that everything is alright in there, like the retention springs are not broken, for example

Have you had a chance to get your own engine running, yet? Extra parts are good, but you do not want to clutter the garage because there is no going back once it is full of junk 😅 That could actually be worse than an old untouched engine. If someone's been in it, you never know what you might find inside. Someone could've (quite literally) wrenched it with their feet while blindfolded, so check everything before you attempt to use it

Yep, same us with your current daily driver... How many people are actually getting the OEM replacement parts, today? I certainly don't 😁

That's an excellent point. However, people will cut corners whenever they can and all sorts of classic car establishments are no exception For example, I just got a pair of 10" Trico wipers for my car... Not identical pair, but at least the same wiper model manufactured in either different years or at different plants. The first time I went with Anco, and then realized that this was not correct for my car because it required an adapter. Now, I am a crazy purist working on my own car, so I can afford nonsense like this. People pedaling classic cars or stuffing auto museums could care less if it is no cost-effective to do something.

It is definitely doable, but you would know that you are a fraud 😁 That's right, once you've "mastered the force", there is no going back... You'll be going to all them antique car museums and arguing with the staff that their exhibits are full of nonsense 🙃