Ivan_B

Sure. And, of course, using a car that does not need re-wiring is even more convenient Okay, I actually did a brief research on these, they do solder. Appear to be not as strong when compared to the normal soldering, though: Of course, you would not expect that kind of force to be applied to your wires in the car... However, this could be the conservative talk\type, but are these really more convenient in comparison to the regular soldered joints? Are they only available for straight crimps? What about t-splices, and all kinds of other weird configurations? What about different terminal connections? What about not frying the rest of the harness while working with the heat gun in a tight space? Also, if you are re-doing or repairing the OEM harness, this would not really look appropriate with the transparent insulation etc. This would be my greater concern Exciting new technology? Sure, but is it really useful at home? I don't know. How difficult is it to use the soldering gun? ?

These are supposed to be "heat-shrink soldering", why is there a crimper on the main banner? ? I was under impression that these shrink (including the metal ring in the middle) but do not actually solder. If they actually solder, I would sure like to see the outer insulation jacket removed, and the soldered connection exposed for inspection, after the fact ?

Okay, that actually makes sense

The car appears to be in rough condition Do you have experience restoring junk-yard vehicles? If not, this is going to be a very interesting project. Why would you buy something like that, from abroad (no parts, etc.), in the first place?

Technically, the new grease is expected to go in and come out from the other side, pushing the old grease + dirt out of the joint. So, if you push but do not see the grease coming out from anywhere except the zerk or your gun connections, it is not good

Even a tight thread is not completely tight to hold pressurized liquids, etc. Think about all those fittings where we use the thread sealant so that they do not leak... If the grease is not going in, there must be something in its way. Despite the fact that the bushing is still rotating, I can see where the new grease passage could be blocked. I would still try to use light oil to dissolve and wash-out what ever could be stuck in there. Try threading your grease gun directly into the zerk hole to see if you can apply some extra pressure to this joint this way.

Yes, I've read that. As you've said, one would expect some grease holes/channels along the threads but, apparently, Chrysler engineers had a different design in mind

That sounds like a bare battery, on its way out... I would check the voltage straight out of the generator, and go from there to see where it gets lost. Do you have the wiring diagram for your car? That really helps to take out the guessing work from your troubleshooting As for no continuity, check if you have it with both meter leads on the same side of the single contact\connector. Some of my contacts have some kind of aged oxidation on them, so you don't always get a connection for the meter leads unless you scratch the contact or push the sharp point hard to the metal. Just make sure that the line is really broken, before you start taking things apart. If you think that the line is really broken, try jumping it with a temporary wire, to see if it changes anything (a wiring diagram is really helpful, at this point, to make sure that you do not connect things that are not supposed to be connected).

Not sure where the grease is supposed to go in this joint, etc., but if it is stuck, try to take out the zerk and spray some WD 40 in there, a few times. It should go through, eventually. Once it does, grease it to push the old stuff + WD 40 out. Repeat every 1000 miles, or seasonally, to keep things in good condition Also, the Chrysler master tech video shows the car being greased-up with the wheels in the air. And I suspect that this is the default position (on the lift). On my car, you cannot even reach the rear upper fittings with the car on the ground. If the joint is a complete no go, there are things you can attach to the fitting and hammer on it to push the liquid oil through at high pressure. I just greased my suspension, yesterday. Despite owning a couple classic cars before, this was actually my very first complete grease job ? All of the fittings took the grease right in, and seemed to be well lubricated before. On one hand this is very good, on the other - there was absolutely no change in ride quality, afterwards ?

I don't believe e-bay is very popular in Europe. The same is probably true for the English language, outside of just a few countries. Not sure who the listing is for. Foreign cars would be somewhat more expensive, considering the shipping cost. Unless it was an original dealer import, of course.

Is my eyesight getting poor or, for that kind of money, they could not even make the body panels gaps the same on both sides? ?

That's an interesting way to have fun with your money, and brag about it on the internet ?

This is nice. I also played with a cheap amazon scope, a while ago. Very interesting to take a peak inside the engine

Thank you for the write-up. Your "Bulbs" bucket is mislabeled, though ?

I assumed you've performed some troubleshooting before fixing the generator, etc.? What seems to be the problem, now? Is the battery continuously discharging while idling in the garage? Does the generator voltage rise when revving the engine? What kind of voltage are you getting (at the battery) at idle versus revving? Can you please provide a bit more information about the observed symptoms, besides the fact that the battery goes dead while driving? I do not believe that the old wires, per se, would cause the battery to discharge... ?

If you look at the same pipe for the in-line 6 engine, you will notice exactly the same configuration of the openings. I suspect that the openings are not aimed directly onto the exhaust valves, but are rather evenly spaced-out throughout the block to provide more even coolant circulation to the working engine in general. Later: actually, the above assumption might be incorrect, since the engine diagrams seem to show the openings directly where the valves are ?

Were these "carefully colorized" by a neural network? There are obvious mistakes\blemishes on most of these photos... ? These cars, in their day, were brand new, so there is no surprise that they were taken everywhere across the country and abroad under all sorts of driving conditions.

He would, except that it ain't starting... ?

That's the reason I mentioned this. My phone is showing something like ~5 miles off, from the modern car speedometer (stock wheels/tires an everything).

Just a thought: I am not sure how accurate the average GPS speed reading is. I suspect that one of those "Your Speed is" road signs is a better tester Or, if you see the highway patrol, just ask them to clock you going buy. These guys keep their radars well calibrated, for legal reasons.

I don't know. There is only one bulb. Take a couple buttons out, in the middle. See the light? Can you replace it? If not, here is your answer I have just the old DIAL tag from my radio. But there are some pictures of the buttons, on eBay, etc., appearing to be original. I would keep the older typewriter tags, though, they look appropriate. Matching the font for the new ones, and printing it so the paper looks old sounds like too much work. By the way, in case you've never done this before, you do need to remove the knobs to take the radio down.

I admire your dedication but, at the same time, am also very sorry to hear that you've kept yourself from enjoying a classic car ride for such a long time ? These cars are rather old, by now. So you either need to spend a lot of money to get a decently restored car (no guarantees here, btw., because people have a widely variable opinion about what "decently restored" car means; UTG has a couple of useful tube videos about hack restoration jobs as a good example), or you need to be a good universal mechanic to fix one up yourself. From what I am reading, none of these applies, unfortunately. It sounds more like a garage full of parts in need of assembly, to be honest I would not be so sure. It looks like the interior was re-done (good). A repaint as well. But, by the look of that rear bumper, the car might've been sitting in the filed, somewhere. So you need to carefully inspect the under-body and the quality of all the bodywork done to it. It might look alright, from afar, but still be a pile of rusted metal with some body filler. Quality body work is extremely expensive, so most of these cars that were re-done, I've seen, were re-done poorly. You don't want to buy that. If you are looking at a repaired car, ask the seller for the "before" pictures to assess what you are dealing with. Well, I've given enough of unsolicited feedback here. It is up to you. You know, there are dreamers and doers. Don't be on the wrong side. Reaching for the stars, and everything, is good motivation, but it is useful to be reasonable about your expectations, and plan accordingly ?

And I was after a 1956 Cadillac or Packard, but got a 1940 Plymouth instead. Why? Because all of the Cadillacs/Packards I looked at were in a very poor condition (including the expensive ones, out of my budget). And when I looked underneath this Plymouth, I thought: "no way, there is no rust holes and it looks like it is actually operational..." And it was. It is up to you, eventually, but I am sure many of us have been there. You get "the car", because you want it, and then it sits because you cannot fix it, for whatever reason. And you cannot sell it either, because you already spent extra money on it and it's not going to sell for what it's worth to you, now. So it sits, and sits, and you spend more money and time into it, and keep wishing you will drive it around some day. And some people do finish their long-term projects but, statistically, most of these probably sit forever. Is it worth it? I don't know... There is another way. You can get a car you can actually afford (and purchase price is only part of it, you must be able to maintain it, etc.) and enjoy it. Right now. What if you don't like it? No problem, you can sell it for the same price you got it for, or maybe even a bit more if you've done some reasonable improvements. Even dry-cleaning the interior goes a long way. Not many people will buy a garage project, but a working classic car is a completely different matter. How much money did you spend on your project, to date? Look up some ads for similarly-priced working classic cars. Would you rather have one of these, and forget about this whole mess? Not sure what kind of cars you are into, but I saw plenty of relatively inexpensive Thunderbirds from the 60s. These seem to look nice, for a $7-10k you can probably get one that needs nothing, except some regular maintenance, and you can drive it around, take it to car shows, and just get on with your life ?

No. If you want to drive an older car, look for the newest and the most expensive one (based upon its objective physical condition) that will feel old-enough for you, and enjoy.

I would also recommend using a stone filter instead. These Carter (and others) filters were sold aftermarket so it might not even be original to your car. I would research to see if your specific filter model can be fitted with a stone filter. If not, it would probably make sense to buy a closely related model that can. Unless, of course, you can find a steady supply of these old paper filters that no one uses anymore. The stone filter is reusable Do you also have a filter on your fuel pump?