Ivan_B

Okay, the military rebuilt is congruent with the engine "number" and they block is from 53? BTW, I do not believe it is very common to install an older engine into a newer car, especially within 10-year difference (unless in was a brand new engine from conservation, maybe). It is usually the other way around, right?

Do you have the OEM service manual available? I am pretty sure that the cluster is bolted to the dash panel, from the back. You just need to undo a few small nuts, all around, holding it in place. The cables should have nothing to do with it, although, it might be necessary to remove them to slide the cluster out from under the dash. Later: my mistake about the cables, but here you go:

Yes, but these are something else, so the connector is also different

I am referring to these. They are identified on the blow-out engine illustrations in the service manual. I also saw them installed on at least one restored car, except that the author is using a more modern wires

But you are still the better man, right? ? Don't worry about jerks. They are probably just jealous that you are the one driving a fancy antique car. And to compensate for this, the "baboons" attempt to assert their "dominance" over others around them, which, of course, is usually expressed in a way offensive to a reasonable and intelligent mind ?

Possibly a rebuilt motor? The block/head years should still be ascertainable

Next time, just stay calm and go 10 miles below the posted speed limit. Ain't nothing he can do about it. Let him cross the double solid line to pass you Also, this is probably more of an off-topic thread.

Quick question: does anyone have an image of what the OEM spark plug terminals should look like for a 1940 car? I looked around but could not find a definitive answer. There aren't any vintage engine photos seem to be readily available. According to the illustrations in the service manual, the terminals are straight snap-on's, installed over Bakelite rain shields (which, I assume are held down by a standard spark plug snap-on terminal nut). But these illustrations are hand-drawn and do not necessarily reflect the actual setup. On the positive side, I think I still have two OEM rain shields, and that's better then none ?

How old were those NOS covers you've used? Probably not from the 40s? ?

I would guess ~9x12? The construction is similar to the old-school supports miners used, except that they did solid jenga-style columns.

If I recall the service manual correctly, you should not do that. The steering box should be disconnected from the wheels and centered on its own, with the wheels, then, connected in the straight-ahead direction.

No problem, that's what the forum is for. I hope I could be more helpful, though, but Google did not find any better illustrations. Maybe someone with exactly the same mechanism as yours can chime in with some insights...

Not at all, old fabric would be rather fragile and unreliable, even assuming that the moth, mold, or the UV did not get it. Like an old pair of your favorite pants you still try to wear, it just falls apart. That's a good point.

I would take it out, clean, and lubricate with graphite or copper. Depending on your color preference.

A lift is the best, for sure. That steering rack ain't supposed to be there, though ?

Under the frame.

Okay, this is way different from what I have in my sedan, sorry. But, according to this diagram: it actually looks about right... Except that are these original parts? Is there a lever that is pushing back toward the brake drum-shoe mechanism, when you pull the cable, somewhere above? If these parts are original, how much movement does this black bracket/lever has? Would it still bump the housing if you tighten the shoe a bit, to reduce the lever travel necessary to engage the brake?

Do you have a picture of what you currently have in there?

I saw those covers on eBay, but then decided to make my own. If your front seat back rest can be disassembled (like the ones on coupes) you can attach simple one-material covers folded from fabric, no need to sew anything. Alternatively, you just take the old fabric off, undo the seams, and trace and cut the same pieces from new fabric.

The brake cable on my 40 sedan is running along the drivers side of the housing, next to the transmission shifter cable. There should be a metal bracket holding the brake cable at the corner of the housing. Takes some pictures of your current setup.

Yes, the use of standardized parts is great, especially among different manufacturers through the decades. This way you can easily find part you need quickly, at any local store, and still find things for way older vehicles, which is especially useful for us. The only two unique things useful for a perfectly utilitarian vehicle are probably just the body and the interior

If the car ain't going straight, check the toe. But this could also be not alignment-related at all. First, swap the wheels from left to right and see if anything changes Later: oh sorry, I misread. If it's hard to steer, check the toe and camber at the front. Also, lift the front and see if the steering wheel rotates with ease and to the same number of turns both ways.

There should be 3 adjustments altogether: side, top, bottom. The top and bottom screws are sitting parallel to one-another, one of them is large with springs, the other one is tiny with no springs. https://p15-d24.com/topic/56670-hand-brake-adjustment-41-wc-pickup/

Not necessarily. The defrost is just warming up the glass so that it thaws. Defogging is a bid different function Also, having a cold/fresh air intake into the cabin is usually a good idea to keep the driver awake so it's a safety feature. I had an old Saab C900, a while back, and thought that something was wrong with my vacuum heater distribution because the center vent was always cold. When I finally read the manual, found out that this is actually a cold air intake. Later, I saw exactly the same setup on some other vehicles.

That is true. An old car, even in great original condition, still needs mostly everything to make it comparable (in terms of reliability and proper operation) to a newer vehicle. And we are not even considering the ~50+ years of technological improvements between the two vehicles, and the metal fatigue (I am thinking - broken axles, tie rods, cracked leaf springs, etc.). Well, the ease of service is an important consideration. Although, I personally prefer fuel injection and other fancy electronics. If you become a bit familiar with how all these things operate, they are actually very convenient to "service". You just mostly replace the worn-out parts in accordance with the maintenance schedule/as necessary. Are you seriously going to choose a 70-year-old truck versus a 20-year-old truck to drive for work, in adverse weather? Technically, you can drive any rough old vehicle in the cold snowy winter. Given enough skill, time, and a place to do the required maintenance. I've done it myself. However, I would much rather prefer to just make sure that the fluids are fresh, battery is good, and a turn-key-and-go operation of the new car in the morning. Vintage vehicles are much more fun to enjoy on good sunny days