Ivan_B

Okay, this is way different from what I have in my sedan, sorry. But, according to this diagram: it actually looks about right... Except that are these original parts? Is there a lever that is pushing back toward the brake drum-shoe mechanism, when you pull the cable, somewhere above? If these parts are original, how much movement does this black bracket/lever has? Would it still bump the housing if you tighten the shoe a bit, to reduce the lever travel necessary to engage the brake?

Do you have a picture of what you currently have in there?

I saw those covers on eBay, but then decided to make my own. If your front seat back rest can be disassembled (like the ones on coupes) you can attach simple one-material covers folded from fabric, no need to sew anything. Alternatively, you just take the old fabric off, undo the seams, and trace and cut the same pieces from new fabric.

The brake cable on my 40 sedan is running along the drivers side of the housing, next to the transmission shifter cable. There should be a metal bracket holding the brake cable at the corner of the housing. Takes some pictures of your current setup.

Yes, the use of standardized parts is great, especially among different manufacturers through the decades. This way you can easily find part you need quickly, at any local store, and still find things for way older vehicles, which is especially useful for us. The only two unique things useful for a perfectly utilitarian vehicle are probably just the body and the interior

If the car ain't going straight, check the toe. But this could also be not alignment-related at all. First, swap the wheels from left to right and see if anything changes Later: oh sorry, I misread. If it's hard to steer, check the toe and camber at the front. Also, lift the front and see if the steering wheel rotates with ease and to the same number of turns both ways.

There should be 3 adjustments altogether: side, top, bottom. The top and bottom screws are sitting parallel to one-another, one of them is large with springs, the other one is tiny with no springs. https://p15-d24.com/topic/56670-hand-brake-adjustment-41-wc-pickup/

Not necessarily. The defrost is just warming up the glass so that it thaws. Defogging is a bid different function Also, having a cold/fresh air intake into the cabin is usually a good idea to keep the driver awake so it's a safety feature. I had an old Saab C900, a while back, and thought that something was wrong with my vacuum heater distribution because the center vent was always cold. When I finally read the manual, found out that this is actually a cold air intake. Later, I saw exactly the same setup on some other vehicles.

That is true. An old car, even in great original condition, still needs mostly everything to make it comparable (in terms of reliability and proper operation) to a newer vehicle. And we are not even considering the ~50+ years of technological improvements between the two vehicles, and the metal fatigue (I am thinking - broken axles, tie rods, cracked leaf springs, etc.). Well, the ease of service is an important consideration. Although, I personally prefer fuel injection and other fancy electronics. If you become a bit familiar with how all these things operate, they are actually very convenient to "service". You just mostly replace the worn-out parts in accordance with the maintenance schedule/as necessary. Are you seriously going to choose a 70-year-old truck versus a 20-year-old truck to drive for work, in adverse weather? Technically, you can drive any rough old vehicle in the cold snowy winter. Given enough skill, time, and a place to do the required maintenance. I've done it myself. However, I would much rather prefer to just make sure that the fluids are fresh, battery is good, and a turn-key-and-go operation of the new car in the morning. Vintage vehicles are much more fun to enjoy on good sunny days

Also, if you want good connection for that wire, for a long time, I would solder that wire connection (propane torch + copper plumbing solder and flux).

This is bad. I am glad it did not catch fire...

I believe that the key word here is "new". I would not use an old vehicle for errands in adverse weather conditions because most of the older cars (I am thinking 15-20 years) are never properly maintained these days. And a "very rough '50 dodge pickup" definitely does not sound very promising ?

Just turn it with your hand (no plugs) using the fan, and spray some cleaner into the starter hole. Use a good quality respirator (or a gas mask if you have one), unless you like to breath-in cleaner fumes. Also put a bucket underneath, it will leak on the garage floor

Probably rear crank/transmission seal is leaking. As long as the clutch is not slipping, shouldn't be too bad. Did you already removed the bell housing cover to inspect the flywheel? You can probably spray it with some brake cleaner, all the way around, to clean things up (at least temporarily).

The old belt might also have some part numbers on it. I am currently running Gates 44" belt (~4" shorter than factory), stock 201 engine, it fits but the generator is at the beginning of the adjustable bracket.

Did you check the store database to see what's available? RockAuto lists the belt as GATES TR24489, and gives you an alternative option with exactly the same specs. This reminds me that I should probably get a spare one myself ?

Implied warranty, I say ? But, seriously, it is hard to chase down internet thieves, especially in a different country.

Quick question: does anyone have the specs for the 1940s wheel alignment, both - front and rear? The Mopar manual only lists the front axle specs. I am at the point of checking my alignment, because the car is wandering a bit. Just as I expected, I am ~3/16 toe out at the front ? and ~1/4 toe in at the rear end. I'll adjust the front to 1/32 in, tomorrow, but what about the rear? I know it is not adjustable, but do I have at least the approximately correct setting? I believe that the wheels should be slightly in to help steering, is that correct? Also, the rear wheel base is wider on my car so the toe in is probably important.

Yes, there are rubber flex-pipes connect the heater to these ducts. If your heater is original to the car, the rubber might've deteriorated, or someone took it off for some reason and never put it back. Should be something like that: My car is probably way older, so it would not be helpful. Ask someone with a 48 to take a picture if you want to see what these looked like exactly.

Okay, I went underneath the car and got dirty, today ? Turned out I had no pedal free play. I adjusted the clutch push-rod and now I have a bit too much free play, but it will wear itself out eventually. I also noticed that the parking brake cable was touching the clutch pedal rod and the shifter cable was touching the clutch fork. Sorry for the poor picture, too close... Not sure whether or not this was a factory setup, but I re-routed both of these cables... Also adjusted the parking brake while I was in there. The friction surface is almost gone on top (improper adjustment). It still holds the car, but I got to get it replaced next time

I like your insulated valve... I've seen a plumbing ball valve installed on a heater hose on one of the cars I looked at, that was ugly. If the original valve is stuck, can't you just drill it out and then re-tap? Although, I am sure as soon as you cut it off and split the remaining "ring", on the inside, it will probably just come out. It will take you a day, if you are slow and careful, but it should work well. Some one was asking about them winter projects, in a different thread, and this one sounds like yours Not likely, as long as everything is hooked-up correctly. I suppose the heater core is not getting warm? Is the valve warm? How about the hose after the valve? If you think the core can be plugged up, you can quickly disconnect the heater hoses under the hood (get a bucket, it will leak) and blow some water from a garden hose through the core to see if it flows through nicely. Not a good idea on a bypass system, they said so in the 1947 Chrysler Master Tech film. But yes, 180 is the correct running temp. Some cars had metal "blinds" in front of the radiator, from the factory, exactly for this. When the air is cold, you close the blinds to keep the air from cooling down the radiator.

Joe, we are exactly on the same longitude, so these are probably just the old bones talking ? Do you have the manual valve, or a more sophisticated setup with remote control? If the valve is not closing completely, the coolant will continue circulating through the core keeping you warm. The old-style valve on the engine is very easy to replace.

You are radical... I would not dare to try the above trick ?

I would not do that on my car ? I am also not carrying any jumper cables for that same reason. If you want to be prepared, I would just get a spare battery for the trunk and charge it once a month Correction: if the 12v battery has contacts for each cell, then you can use half of it, or reconnect it parallel for 6V. But I have not seen batteries with individual cell contacts these days...

1) check the heater valve to make sure it is open 2) check the heater hoses, do they get warm? 3) check the heater core, it should be as hot as the radiator If the heater core is not warming up, the coolant is likely not flowing through it. My core is open all the time and it gets so hot that i feel it with natural aspiration while driving... I should really close that valve, do not need the heater on Florida ?