Ivan_B

That is great, good for you Please post the pictures of everything you have with it, when you get a chance. I was actually leaning toward the bottle-style jack, as I do not like the bumper ones, for some reason (never had one, so I don't know where this is coming from) ?

That's right. Only, I'd mostly try to concentrate on vintage pictures (including the ones in the manual). Otherwise, you are risking copying someone else's inaccuracies. I've seen some bad things at the local car museum... Not even talking about the average car gatherings

Joe, No, no, this topic is exclusively about jacks, and other car things

I like them bubbles at the bottom of the door, and the asking price ? Maybe it is rare, I have no idea. Seems like it has not been driven much, though, with the missing air filter.

Well, I understand their point, kind of, but it sounds like they are simply might be trying to lower your expectations and avoid some responsibility. Maybe In my opinion, an average shop should be able to, more or less, figure out hot to put a car together. I doubt it is disassembled like a blow-out diagram and all mixed together, is it? Also, it is not an airplane, or anything like that, which they've never seen before... I would expect that a lay person would need detailed instructions of how to put a car together, but definitely not an auto shop. Have they already done much work for you? Are you sure that this is a good idea to push them into this, if they are not interested? Last time I was pushing a shop to work on my stuff, it did not work-out well. Not at all. They were dragging their work as much as possible, did some questionable repairs, and, worst of all, I had to finish it myself, and redo some things anyway because, for instance, they did not know how to install a custom EFI onto a previously carbureted engine and broke the hall sensor ? Do you have pictures of the car/parts?

Are you able to share some pictures of your OEM jack? Do you also have the factory wheel wrench? Good advice about the piece of wood, for the extra base on soft surfaces. As I was reading your message about all of the things you have in your car for protection, I was thinking: this narrative is going to end with a .45 ACP, you know, just in case... Isn't it? ?

Have you looked into alternatives? I am using Motorcraft AL7CA, the PO installed; did not notice any issues with them, thus far

Welcome. Sorry to hear about your experience, many people been there. Hopefully, you did not waste a lot of money for nothing as well. You are looking for a service manual, right? That one does not seem to be readily available online. How about you just get a paper copy on eBay? If they need an actual assembly manual - i.e. the instructions that the factory would use in the plant - you'll probably never find that. And the shop probably should not be looking for it.

Actually, I am just about to start using the car daily (I don't drive much, these days ?) so I am primarily interested in having a basic set of tools in the trunk for a quick road-side service. All of the things are simply stored behind the spare wheel, right? Also, these cars did not have any shelves, or anything like that in the trunk, correct?

I know... Do people just forget them in the field, somewhere and drive off? Or sell them to a scrap yard to pay for gas (drugs)? ? I just have one old wooden choke, which I thought about tossing into the trash, but is looks very antique, so I've decided to keep it (probably will get a pair of new rubber ones for this car, anyway). I might also have to go with a modern jack/tool kit, but there are still some old-ones available, so I'd first attempt to get an OEM-like set, if I can determine which one I need.

Does anyone have an image of the OEM jack, wheel wrench, and other tools (if any) for 1940 coupe? I've found a couple of illustrations but cannot determine if the car had a bumper jack or a bottle type. The last image is what my car came with. It looks like the handle is DIY, and the jack is from a mid-40s truck, is it? Do not have the wheel wrench at all ?

Do it! It is a lot of fun. Technically, you do not need a schematic for cap replacement or very basic troubleshooting. The caps have labels on them And if you get lost, you can ask for help on the radio forum, like I did.

How about you do a metered run - drain the tank (or attach the pump to an external container), put one gallon in, take some spare gas with you, and drive it off to see how far you can get? If you cannot see puddles of gas underneath the car, or smell leaks, it is probably all burning up Once I removed the air filter and saw how much gas it squirted into the carb from the accelerator pump, once you press the pedal, I was very surprised...

Do you have any pictures of the insides? Do you still have the insides? These could be useful for parts... I've seen some pretty bad looking, liquid damaged, sets being repaired without problems. These old radios are very simple and sturdy. In one video I saw, the person was complaining that his friend gave him a radio to fix and it is beyond repair, for like 45 minutes. And then he decided to actually check it, and fixed it by replacing a cap or two, in the next 15 minutes... Very funny ? My next plan is to install an mp3 to AM transmitter, so that I can broadcast my own music from a USB stick. I know there are already things like that available, but I don't like the ones I've seen, so I'll have to make my own. Already found suitable parts for testing, so there will be a separate thread about that. If everything goes well, I'll be "tubing" down the road with Dolly Dawn, very soon ? Forgot to mention: this radio repair stuff is extremely addictive! This was my very first tube radio (which I had to fix just because I needed a working radio) and I already found myself looking online for cheap broken radios for sale in my spare time... A very slippery slope... ?

If you are talking about misplacing gallons of gas, it is not in your crankcase, otherwise you would see it. Don't worry about that. Are you sure that the tank is currently empty? Are you going by the dash gauge or manual check? I, recently, had a false running out of gas issue. Turns out, it was not running out of gas at all, but got extremely rich and stalled, under certain conditions. And, of course, would not start afterwards. I did not have time to investigate that, so far, but it looks exactly like when you are running out of gas, except that the tank is full Alternatively, you could've just had increased fuel consumption, since the last time it was getting 15-18 mpg.

You need to look online (eBay, Face Book, Craigslist, good old Google search). There are still some NOS parts available here and there. I once bought a used 3-speed, in hopes of repairing it an using it in my car. It was shifting too... Upon disassembly and wear inspection, every single part inside the main casing had to be rejected, including the casing itself ?

I've got another noteworthy repair to share. Made my original 1940 Philco C-1708 working again. ? This was actually inspired by the following comment in another recent thread: I thought it to be not very informative when the person in the video mentioned that the original tube radio is not repairable or not worth the trouble to repair, and simply gutted the whole thing and put a modern player inside. ? And I thought to myself - this ain't right, I can do better - I can fix the OEM radio. And I did. Here is a short version: The most common problem in all tube radios seems to be the electrolytic filter condensers, which age and go bad with time. This is most often evident by the buzz/hum sound audible from the speaker when the radio is turned on. This sound has no response to the volume control and it is not to be confused with the buzzing of the electro-mechanical vibrator inside the radio itself. The filter condenser hum is actually coming from the speaker, not the radio. How to fix it? Quite simple - you need to replace the filter condensers, and all the other paper (outdated) condensers you find inside the radio. You can usually keep the resistors, mica (bakelite) condensers, tubes, and other parts, unless they test bad. Some people also prefer to replace the electro-mechanical vibrator with a more modern solid-state one, but I kept the original, since it is working without issues. The condensers you use (called capacitors, or caps, now-days) should be the same as the original ones, in terms of the capacitance and voltage specs. Going up in voltage is okay, if necessary. The capacitance can also deviate within +20% of the original value. This allows you to find cheaper and commonly available replacement components. Here is the list of parts for the C-1708 radio I used: caps ECW-HA3C202HQ - 1 ECW-H20402HVB - 2 EEU-EE2V150 - 1 EEU-ED2V100 - 1 DME1P56K-F - 2 DME2S56K-F - 4 103MSR400K - 4 DME4P27K-F - 1 ECA-1EM220 - 1 $24.45 2 new knobs (mine deteriorated completely) 1450DR $16.67 1 Philco 7B8 tube (mine turned out to have an open heater circuit) $4.99 (on eBay) This is it. For a grand total of $46.11 I now have a working OEM radio. Parts delivered to my door. The repair was performed with a cheap soldering iron kit and a regular digital multi-meter. Also I am a not an electronics specialist, at all. So if some of you with proper education are reading this and thinking that I am full of nonsense - you are right ? For the long version: After I replaced the condensers, found a faulty tube, and checked everything else, the radio still would not work. I spent days educating myself in radio repairs, etc., and troubleshooting all kinds of different components. In result, at some point it started working, all of a sudden, and I still don't know what happened. But don't worry, yours is going to be different - a quick and simple repair ? And here are some illustrations, as always: Original radio and new parts. New parts installed. I really cheated with the buttons. Technically, they are supposed to be semi-transparent, with labels, and illuminated by the pilot lamp from inside. But I had no tools or time to do a more or less proper restoration, so I cut new cores from a plastic base board, embedded the metal connector for the button rod, and used a switch plate for the ivory inserts to match the new knobs. In the end, I think it turned out acceptable, cosmetically. Although, I must admit that if the darker knobs were available, these would look better. The schematics for this radio are available here: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/952/M0013952.pdf

If you have loose random parts inside the transmission - this is bad. Need to take the whole thing apart for inspection/repair. I would not attempt to drive it anymore, otherwise, next time it will brake a tooth or something like this. ?

I'd say - forget about that. Old cars are not a women's thing, with very few exceptions or purposeful diversion. The future in-laws/grand kids might appreciate the car in the family, though. ? As for the body work, as previously stated, it looks like you have considerably more work to do than just the outer rockers. Since this is your family car, etc., I assume that you want to fix it the correct way? That will probably require some skill and lot's of time. Luckily, frame-on bodies are not so bad when they rust at the bottom. At least you do not have to deal with structural issues. I would start by completely removing the interior (both seats, carpet, door panels) and carefully inspecting all the bottom end. Chances are, you have some holes in the floor panels, door edges, and wheel arches too. All these have to be fixed, otherwise, the rust will come back in a little while. Also, remember that there will be some enclosed areas, which you cannot see into. These needs to be evaluated as well. Also, do inspect the frame, inner fenders, firewall, and other places from the outside. Since you are not a welder, have you considered taking it to a vintage body shop, at least for the metal work? This will be expensive, but if you find a good place (with people who actually know what they are doing) it could actually save you a lot of time and frustration.

Or the float is full of gas... Either way, most likely it is overflowing. You can try cranking the engine without the carb cover (holding the float pin in place) to confirm whether or not it actually stops the fuel flow.

Any pictures from the under-side, yet?

The same way you "bend" a regular tube without a mandrel ?

Are you sure this screw has something to do with the door handle? It seems to be located way off and too far away. I have the same screws going through the door panels on my 1940. I took them out when re-doing my panels, and forgot to put them back in ? Still have these sitting in the box with other "extra" parts. Not sure what these are for... Interesting fact: both these screws and the soft interior door handle screws on my car have a Philips head, on one side, and the straight line slot head on the other one... I guess since Plymouth had a different body style each year, back then, they were probably customizing some of these cars with what ever parts they had available. My car is from February 1940, and I did find some interesting things inside, which looks like an assembly line custom body work ?

There is a floor pan in P10. The whole front section is removable, but you need to take out the carpet and everything