Ivan_B

A licked finger cheap? Just don't stick it into high current applications 😅

Oh, the good-old counter-shaft rod? Yes, that got to be sealed individually

This might be a rather unintelligent question, but are you sure it's the transmission and not the engine or something else leaking? If you are capable of taking out and re-doing the transmission, one would usually assume that you would've properly sealed all of the applicable junctions etc. You did not add the fluid while still on the bench, did you? Where is it leaking from, specifically? Do you have a picture?

That's also true. In addition, you can adjust the two close enough without the meters either

Maybe I am not using the correct terminology here. I do not like the brake fluid eating away the paint, etc. It really does, I've spilled some before ) I suspect it does that regardless of having absorbed any water, because my spilled liquid came right from the new sealed bottle. Has DOT 5 been available for that long, already? What year is it, again? I must be getting old 🤣 The DOT 2 can be easily mixed yourself (done that before). The common formula appears to be 50/50 castor oil and butyl alcohol. But, it is not suitable for disk brakes (too hot) and it can get "thick" in very cold weather. Last time I've been playing with some in the bottle, it was still visually maintaining its fluidity at 5F, so this is well beyond my typical Florida driving needs.

Yep. My cheap one doesn't, though

I am wondering, what was the original brake fluid in use for our cars in the 40-50? My 40 manual simply refers to is as "MoPar brake fluid". I did find some images of the old MoPar heavy duty brake fluid tins. They don't list the ingredients but, based upon the listed specs (non-corrosive, flammable, up to 400F operating temperature) it looks like the good-old DOT 2 (castor oil + alcohol). Is that right? The reason I am asking is because I am thinking about switching to DOT 2, for its non-corrosive and non-hygroscopic properties. I have drum brakes (no need for the extra high boiling point) and do not operate the car in cold weather (no issues with the fluid getting a bit thick) 🤔

I also usually see no sense in getting specialized testers (unless you constantly do the same repetitive operations at work, etc.,) considering that a simple digital multi-meter has most of the functions an average DIY'er will ever need

That is funny! And they sure did, I think I still have some in the old tool box.

I agree, but I could not find an old-style fuel filter with a large-enough inlet for the 5/8 hose. Technically, for the looks, I can make a black/tan cloth cover to put over it. You will still see the cover, of course, but would not necessarily be able to guess what's going on underneath

So, this is some sort of movie prop? Ho many cars were actually there? At least 2-3 probably got totaled for filming 🤔

I have finally replaced the hoses and thermostat. I think it works exactly like I expected: the car is now warming up extremely fast, and then settles at about 180. Just as it should

The deed is done.

Who is Christine, and why is someone trying to hook her up with someone else, supposedly without her being aware of it (since no locale was shared)? This topic looks somewhat strange to an outsider, just saying 🤣

I am pretty sure the plug on the first photo is the fill... Not sure about the one at the front-right of the casing, though, my diff does not have it 🤔 I would suggest checking the repair manual for this specific car (assuming the differential is OEM).

Joe, You'll be just fine! If you run into any trouble, there is also a great radio forum available: https://antiqueradios.com/forums/index.php You can always ask those guys for help, like I did. There is also a specific Philco forum, but it has less users, so I did not write there since my questions were about general troubleshooting and not Philco specific. BTW, I think your 41 radio is technically the next model, although, very similar. Just check your old condenser specs (stamped on the side) before ordering the replacements I have listed above. Also, here are a couple of videos for you:

The mechanical vibrator does make a noise while operating, but it is way different from the condenser hum. If you disconnect the speaker and turn-on the radio, you will hear the vibrator buzz. It is normal, and usually not audible while the radio speaker is working over it. In fact, when the radio is cold, the speaker does not "kick-in" until a couple seconds later. So when you turn it on, you hear the vibrator first, and then the speaker a bit later. If the speaker also hums and volume control has no affect, if the filter condenser. Although, if you are still able to tune the stations, it might not be the filter condenser. When it is bad, you get no stations just the hum at constant volume. If the radio has not been re-caped before, you'll need to replace all the condensers anyway. This will likely take care of the issue (if any). When you replace your original 3-in-1 filter condenser with the 3 electrolytic ones, make sure that you follow the proper polarity as indicated on the new caps (+ is actual +, - is actual -, and not your positive ground). If you don't, you'll have to buy new caps like I did 😇 Also, here is some more useful troubleshooting info:

Technically, that was not a typo, since the applicable letters are positioned quite apart from one another 😇 I suspect that I just have the "finger memory" for "brakes" and automatically type it all the time, failing to proofread. I've noticed that in the past: I am thinking about a certain word with a certain spelling, but my fingers are automatically typing something else, several times in a row too... 🤣

Makes sense, thanks for sharing I would say it could be useful to save the pics for later reference, but it is not done to factory specs... I usually save pics of non-restored original cars/parts to know what I need to aim for, later on.

Did you already look in the thread I posted, or inside your own radio?

I believe that you've confused the role assignment in this story. You could've had an emergency and slowed down, no one knows... If there is no minimum speed limit posted and someone is in a hurry - it's their problem.

That is correct. I just did not have any generator noise to begin with.

I don't know... The seller states: "Just completed. Everything restored back to original factory specification." No it's not, and not everything... Is this another one of those "for sale" builds? Maybe a good one, but still... He's got the correct style radiator hose clamps at the large hoses, but the good-old gear worm ones on the heater hoses. Why? Is the carpet molding supposed to be screwed to the floor like that, on a 41? 🤨 Also, is there any particular reason the body was not repainted/undercoated/oiled from the bottom? 🤔 I know, I am being rather picky here, but for the asking price and the aforementioned "everything restored" condition, I have many questions.

I thought we were talking about the right oil for the differential, this whole time... 🤨

+1: most likely its the filter capacitors, if it hums right away and the volume adjustment does nothing - this is it. If it is still original, you'll need to re-cap it, anyway, so start with that: