Ivan_B

Weren't the new motors stamped right after they bolted them to the frame (so that you have the matching numbers on the motor and the frame)?

Couldn't you just siphon everything out of the tank and replace with new gas? If you really get water in there, it should be trapped by the good-old bowl filter.

I was looking at some interior pictures, and it seems they are way different.

I would suggest Googling the tube/book/forums for someone with a matching car, then contacting them personally to see if they will be willing to share I was, once, trying to find a rare taillight for another older car and replied to a few 10-year-old forum ads I found on Google. One of the posters replied that the original lights, posted on the forum, were sold a long time ago, but he might have an extra pair somewhere in his storage. A couple weeks later I had my lights!

Are there any updates on this project?

I used rust cure formula 3000 on the inside of the car, once I was refreshing the interior. Apparently, there were some studies performed by Canadian DOT, or something like that, indicating that liquid rust proofing really works if applied frequently. Some of our Canadian members might know better. I am planning to use it on the outside, as well, but just did not get around to it, yet. However, I would not be able to test it since the car is not driven in adverse weather conditions. Thus far, the only thing I can say is that it really does not drip and spreads very well

If you see the accelerator pump squirting fuel into the intake, I would suspect that you had enough fuel in your carb bowl and the car should start and run for a while even if there was no additional fuel input from the pump. Are you sure you are dealing with a lack of fuel condition? Is it possible that it was just overflown with gas and then aired-out? I would also not completely rule-out other potential culprits. Did you check for good spark when the car would not start?

That pipe could be for wipers or other vacuum operated equipment? To determine what is and what's not original, it is best to find some vintage illustrations, such as from the owners' or repair manuals. Here are some of the things I see on the pictures: bed is likely not original or modified, rear view mirrors do not look period correct. Obvious - turn signals, side markers, etc. Interior appears to have been redone. Under the hood: is that a DIY PCV setup? You might want to check the original fuel bowl next to the pump, it needs to be cleaner. The heater outlet has been welded shut I see the vacuum advance next to the ignition distributor but do not see a vacuum line going to it, is it still there? Also, is this engine original to the truck (does the number match the frame)? The red color seems a bit unusual. Also, either your brake or clutch pedal is out of alignment, they should be the same height.

Ray, where is your original post? This one? Just reply to it with all your updates.

I am thinking that might look a bit awkward. Try it, to see how it looks to you. I would probably try placing them next to the bumper "teeth" but on the inside, toward the center of the car like on Robert's illustration. Also, don't forget to check under the bumper placement.

Small lights will probably look better, and I would experiment with different placement options. Also, try stepping farther away from the car to get some pictures with less geometrical distortion. Moreover, I've noticed that you are running a 1939 Penna plate. I actually do the same, but for 1940. However, this is sort of nonsense because cars manufactured in the 1939 or 1940 would not have their plate expiring in the same year 😋

Andy's brackets look like the ones on my car as well (and similar to what's available on eBay for $20).

Do you have an image? I would suspect that the car was undercoated, at least once, at some point. Otherwise, you would have holes instead of metal in there by now.

Even better, you can hide the link behind the text, so you link becomes what ever you want it to be

What's the problem of using OEM setup? If the OEM was a drill-through, and your car was not drilled, just use a bracket that attaches to the bumper bracket underneath, from the earlier models, like this.

Classic... Had this happen on a modern passenger car, twice in a row. First one side, and then the other.

This looks like a standard flipper ad. Here is another one, from a different town: https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/d/westminster-ww-1949-desoto-travelall/7727921052.html I usually skip those.

Well, you still find most of the same information searching for the key-words with the site address among them. It is just that the search is now pulling more results from all sorts of places

I am afraid that the above is also incorrect, since by adding space in between the "site:" search condition and the site address, you are actually not using the aforementioned condition. The search is not looking on the specific website, anymore, but is looking everywhere for the search words (including the site address). Unless, of course, this is what you want.

That is funny, but I bet if I can find a genuine air container, pumped in a specific year, I could probably sell it online to all sorts of collectioneers 🙄

If you are attempting to imitate chrome, have you considered wrapping it into metallic film? Some of it looks quite a lot like authentic chrome, assuming that the surface itself has a nice smooth finish (which is also required for real chrome, and paint, alike),

Hoods are for cowards! 🥲

Gentlemen, with all due respect, I would refrain from posting practical jokes in the technical forum. You never know when someone might actually consider this as a sound advice 🙄

April fools' day was 8 days ago... 🤨

I suspect that the technically correct search syntax for a specific site search (for the web engines) will be: "engine flush" site:p15-d24.com No need to include the http/www/ftp, etc.