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Ivan_B

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Everything posted by Ivan_B

  1. That's a 1940, alright. An interesting project, but for x2-3 as much, you can get a working complete car (which has not been taken apart, to begin with). So I am not sure who'd be interested in messing with this one Also, there must've been some custom trim installed on the rear fender, at some point.
  2. Well, Good point. There is probably a fiberboard panel, separating the trunk and the cabin, still in place
  3. Rear seat? Yes, probably at the bottom. You should see the two screws after you take the bottom cushion out.
  4. I just finished doing some work, which included fixing an exhaust leak at the manifold/pipe flange. I tell you what, the car sounds very different, now. I no longer hear "chatter" when accelerating. I've had an aftermarket flat flange, in there, and that thing must've been leaking all over the place. The only reason I noticed it is because I had to remove it, and determined that it would not seal afterwards. Feel around that junction, with your hand, with the cold engine running.
  5. Just remember to keep all them holes shut, at all times, that's what I'll do ๐Ÿคฃ
  6. ๐Ÿคจ Doesn't make sense to paint them in the first place. Never ever seen anyone do that, unless someone was trying to do a quick "restoration" and just spray painted everything silver, right over dirt, etc. ๐Ÿ˜… Edit: I just looked it up, there are actually Tube videos about painting the carbs and parts to make them look "better than new"... And different color "specialty coatings" to "replicate" different kind of zinc plating... This is silly ๐Ÿ™„
  7. That's a good one! I would first try to dip the whole thing in a can with gas (and cover it up to make sure that you don't breath the fumes). Chances are, if the pain-job is poor, the paint is probably also not gasoline resistant
  8. Never seen that, but I could sure use an extra tool compartment, like them old fords
  9. Click-bait title, you see ๐Ÿ˜… Just in case you did not get it, this is an older Carter ceramic fuel filter, to complement my B&B. Got it a while ago, and finally had a chance to put it in, along with a 1/2 carb spacer. Will see how that works out ๐Ÿ˜
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  10. Yep, the well is welded in place, how bad did you expect the Chrysler plant to be to just drop it in there as is? ๐Ÿฅฒ Are you planning on re-using the bumper bolts? If not, just cut them off from the outside. If yes, soak with oil, etc. Might use some heat as well (not too much otherwise the chrome will be gone). If it's difficult to get underneath the bumper, recruit a pair of younger and smaller hands ๐Ÿ˜‰
  11. If you use the proper amount (which, literally, no one does), it ain't going anywhere
  12. The one at the bottom right of the engine, for the oil pressure? I doubt it. If you have low compression, that could explain the low vacuum, according to the chart I posted.
  13. +200% to that! Time to get a micrometer? ๐Ÿ˜…
  14. Actually, I just checked the vacuum diagnostic chart, it says that 17-21 is ok. So you might be still within specs. Did you already do a compression check on it? ๐Ÿค”
  15. Are we talking about updating valves or doing an engine swap? ๐Ÿคจ I also use 87 regular. Thought about using non-ethanol, but it only comes with high octane, so I figured that I would rather deal with some ethanol than after-burn As everyone else has already mentioned, you should be fine, no need to fix what ain't broke.
  16. Okay, good news: I checked the TDC mark, and the distributor is pointing at either #1 or #6 plug, which is good. I was also able to build-up my good-old 40psi pressure rotating the engine with the starter (no plugs). If the pump stops leaking as well, after I have a chance to drive it in a day or so, we would call it a success
  17. Okay, all it needed was a longer magnet with a DIY self-straightening WD-40 spray can rod. It was at the very far end of the cylinder ๐Ÿ˜ฑ๐Ÿ˜…
  18. If the vacuum meter is ok (check your other car) you probably have a leak somewhere.
  19. That's right... Flathead is complicated like this. The TDC is too small for the average camera (I did check for the deposits inside, it is not exactly a pinhole, but something like 2/16). A professional scope (like the one you've seen at the doctor's office ๐Ÿ˜…) would do just fine, but the one they loan at the Zone is too large, it is really does not work well. I cannot believe they sell it for ~$170. This is clearly a $30-40 scope in Amazon. Poor quality image, poor illumination, etc.
  20. Dave, I am afraid that the hole for TDC is way too small. The plug itself is 3/8, while underneath there is just a pinhole
  21. Good idea, Tod, I tried that but was not successful thus far. I also loaned a borescope from the zone, but it is a bit too large to get into the cylinder and you cannot see anything with that little mirror adapter. I've got the cylinder to TDC, fishing in there with a small magnet but am not pulling anything out. I also undone the exhaust pipe below the manifold and was able to get up to the valve with the scope - nothing... Tried a vacuum cleaner, at various places, too. I am pretty sure that the intake was closed when this happened, the exhaust was open. So it's got to be in the exhaust... I'll just take the manifolds off, tomorrow, and check some more. It is better than removing the head, at this point ๐Ÿฅฒ
  22. Didn't try using sealant on the gasket, yet?
  23. Well, I admin - I've done some pretty unintelligent garage stuff, before, but today was probably the absolute bottom record. That likely even beats catching the oil filter on fire... I needed to turn the engine by hand, so I took out the plugs. Then I decided to use the starter (to check for oil pressure) so I disconnected the - wire from the ignition coil and (dropped the little split washer right into the #6 cylinder... Oooops... Cannot get it out because I don't see it. Chances are, it went straight into an open exhaust or intake valve ๐Ÿ™„
  24. That's reasonable, it will be interesting how much you would charge for your own time and effort ๐Ÿ˜‹
  25. Okay, they must've changed it, thanks. Sorry for hijacking the thread. Now, let's find-out why Mark's carburetor is wetting itself ๐Ÿฅฒ I am thinking that even if the alloy carb body became porous, somehow, (which is preposterous, in y opinion) the gas is still not expected to accumulate and puddle "upstream". The gravity does not quite work this way. A sponge drips from the bottom, it does not leak from the top. So I am thinking that there has to be a simpler explanation for the observed phenomena.
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