Ivan_B

Took the pump cap off, today. Thought it over and decided to go with a new o-ring. According to the size I measured, this should be the standard #143 o-ring. Napa is the only local store which could order something like this. We'll see how that goes on Tuesday. 🙄 BTW, on the 1940 frame with 201 engine, the pump slides right out without doing any adjustments to the engine.

Just look at all those bent lines down at the local store. No one bent those on purpose, that's how easy it is 🤣

What's the reason you are fixing this in the first place? If you are interested in stopping future rust, just coat this with liquid undercoating (on both sides) and carry on If you are actually having structural damage (metal is too weak to serve its purpose) you can cut a new piece of metal and rivet it in. It will not look pretty, but it will work. If you use liquid undercoating, you can probably even leave the old metal underneath, so that someone else (or a wiser version of you 😉) can do a proper repair in the future. I would definitely not use fiberglass, etc.

I have two explanations: 1) there is a tiny crack somewhere (very unlikely) or 2) the gasket is letting the gas through. To deal with the second scenario, use some sealant dressing on the gasket (I prefer permatex #2) and do not over-tighten it. Also, make sure that your level is correct. To do so, verify that the float is not leaking (dip in boiling water, watch for bubbles) and that the needle is actually shutting off the fuel flow (crank the engine with the carb top off, blow into it, etc.). Also, do you still have original vacuum advance line on your carb? Would you mind posting a few pictures of how that's rounder to the distributor? 😃

Is the old drum still repairable? It could be cheaper to redo the rivets 🙄 Do you have a picture of your spare tire? I am very curious about how it managed to break the rivets... 🤨

Better than standard copper-nickel? 🤔 The only reason I see to use it instead of copper is if you are after the silver look.

That's a good point, did not think about the pressure. I cannot find the data sheet for the fel-pro rubber-cork material... Other manufacturers rate theirs at around 100-150psi 🤔

Are your rims actually rusty on the inside? Mine were pretty clean (original paint, too), so I just washed them and that's it. The tubeless tires use soapy water for mounting. Since we have tubes, I just used the good old tire talc powder. Both on the tube and inside the tire (spread it around with a piece of cloth, etc). Do not use organic baby powder for automotive tires 🤣 You don't have to worry about setting the bead, etc. Your biggest concern should be how to not pinch the tube in between the tire and the rim. Also, make sure that you have the correct-size tubes. One of my old tubes had a fold in it. When I put the tires on, I inflated them to around 10 psi, just to hold shape, and then pushed around the sidewall, on both sides, to make sure that the tube was nicely seated in the middle of the rim.

These o-rings are still available on e-bay... The size is listed at 2-17/32 or 64.3mm (not sure ID or OD though 🤣). The original ring is square cross-section, correct. However, I suspect that either type (or even a properly-sized cork) will work. I will dress it with sealant, anyway. I'll take my cap off, today, to see what's in there. Technically, you can even bead-seal it without the ring, like it is done on some modern vehicles. I do not like the sealant-only solution, though. This is likely done for cost saving.

Autozone sells the same lines cheaper (at least around here). That is, if you need them now; otherwise - Amazon coil.

Okay, that makes sense. I was just making sure that the o-ring is not included in the gap calculation... The ring needs to be slightly thicker than the groove, in order to make sealing contact. I'll try to find a matching ring or attempt to fabricate one from a soft cork gasket material. I need to check how thick my cork sheets are. I might even be able to re-seal the original ring, but I suspect that it will fall apart as soon as I take it out. 🤣

Thank you, I already studied this material in the forum tech. section, here. So, if I understand correctly, the end-play (gap between the rotors and the back plate) is adjusted with either machining the housing or the rotors. Since my current pump is working alright and I just need to replace the plate o-ring, It seems that I can just remove the plate, replace the o-ring, and then put the plate back on. The plate is mounted metal-to-metal, with the o-ring squeezed in between. So I do not believe that re-installing the same plate will affect the gap, right? 🙄

Resurrecting this old topic. Did anyone managed to fix the leaking oil pump cover? I am replacing some gaskets around the engine, to reduce oil loss, and have noticed that my pump is also leaking. Am I correct in assuming that I can just remove the pump cover, put a new o-ring underneath and tighten it back-up the way it used to be? People mention something about the cover/rotor clearance. How is that adjusted? 🤔

Why in the world would you use stainless? 🤣 I bought a set of new lines for a modern car, at a local store, once. Had to "adapt" all of them because they did not fit right.

Did you lubricate the rubber with soapy water, as they show in the video? 😏

This was discussed many times. An automotive fuel filter plastic is not expected to melt unless it is physically touching the exhaust. In addition, even if it does, the gasoline is not expected to ignite when spilled over the exhaust either. I am certainly not denying the possibility of the aforementioned events happening, but the probability of the same is probably similar to the OEM setup

Do you shut it off and wait for the engine to go through the full bowl of fuel and stall? 🤨

So, yours must be similar to the older 2-piece setup, then?

Nice... 🙄

The last time I took a 3-speed apart, every single part (including the iron cast housing), except for the counter shaft, was no longer in spec. That input shaft has at least 3 places that needs to be checked: the tip, the "hole" for the main shaft on the opposite end, and the main bearing seat. If you really want to do this right, you would also probably measure the teeth wear and the shaft's end play (when assembled). These operations are performed with 3-4 different micrometers and a dial indicator. I don't know what the specs for this transmission are (they are not listed in the simple repair manual) but they do exist.

Sorry for the off-topic, but this reminds me of the add I saw on Craigslist: 🤣

Both of those input shafts look like scrap metal. The seat for the bearing/bushing, at the tip, should probably be checked with a micrometer 🙄 The next time you have everything back together, do a quick test before you attempt to mess with anything else: when the clutch pedal is released, the clutch disc (partially visible from the bottom) should be tight between the flywheel and the pressure plate. When the clutch pedal is pressed down, you should be able to spin the clutch disk with a thin screwdriver. If it ain't working this way, do not attempt to start the car, etc., it will not do any good, at this point. Also, this clutch video might have some useful info.

Did you guys already watch the instructions?

Never saw the points firing a plug when turning the key 🙄 Is this a stock setup, besides the ignition? Are you running an electric fuel pump or any other things connected to the ignition switch?

Are you actually planning to alter the vehicle's wheel base? Make sure that the State will not have issues with it before you do so. In any event, 1/2 of the car will have the proper retro look, the other 1/2 will be modern. I am not sure whether or not this is a good idea, regardless of the price.