Ivan_B

Well, maybe you can all get together and get this harness installed, over a few cans of beer. And then, the next morning, give it a one more look-over, without beer 😉

This MN recycler offers $80/ton for scrap vehicles.

It was a partial joke. I've never heard about the lights/company, thanks for the info 😀

I don't even know what these are. Some sort of extra safety lights for senior drivers? 🤣

I just have a personal bias against DOT 3-4 fluid. You can spill it when topping off the cylinder, when working on hoses/lines, it can leak all over the wheels due to a poor connection, etc. I did check how much butanol is going for, these days, so I might just switch to the Dot-5 silicon fluid instead, when I get to do the brakes.

That's a good one! I suspect that the TS is simply not electrically inclined. He might've noticed some old wiring with deteriorated insulation and is now worried about starting a fire or what not. Attempting to do the wiring himself is probably considered as a separate fire\explosion hazard in itself

That's a very dirty carb... Don't let them get this way, anymore So, you are still taking pictures even though you just did one just like it? 😂

Exactly. I am talking about Ford guys... Ride alongs? Off road use? Didn't they have them wheels tested for endurance on the "bounce/roll" machine? As a reputable automotive establishment, they must've done all that at the factory since at least the 40s if not early 😳 Also, Dan, you've got to tell us some western war stories about apprehending fugitives, etc. I bet that would be interesting for everyone 😃

This one? It would be funny to go back there and ask for a refund 😆

All the usual comments here... Also, I like when people post blurry, at a weird position, with random cats, images in the ads 🤣

Apparently, the lug lock bracket, or even a simple thread lock, also did not exist at that time? 🤨

Here you go: https://springfield.craigslist.org/pts/d/springfield-1950-dodge-truck-steering/7715887773.html

Thought I'd post one, stumbled upon this on accident: https://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/d/oxnard-1940-plymouth/7727825856.html Apparently, the seller is not from this forum otherwise he would know that the stock 6-cylinder Flathead for P10 is 201 and not 225. Also, I am wondering: - where he put the all new u-joints... 🤨 - why the door handles are installed up-side-down... - what happened to the stock below-the-engine shields... - where he found the "below freezing cold temperatures" to try starting the car with electronic ignition, in Ventura CA... And I am sure the car was re-painted, but hey, even the stock horn works via the steering wheel! So that's something different! 😅

Are you still talking about the steering wheel? Do you have a picture?

Not hooking up the fuel pump, I guess? Just gravity-feed it with a bottle, then.

Watched the video. Technically, when you are replacing the leather on the leather wheel, the proper way to do this is to take the old one off and use it as your cutting pattern 😅

I don't say this very often, I know, but this one actually looks good, if you discount some of the "aftermarket" things If I were looking for a truck, I'd go check it out.

How thick is the leather? I am seeing that they use a hidden seam at the strip junction (the way I wanted to go for the entire seam but could not for the leather being too think) and it is bulging out on some of the illustrations on their web side. Yours seems alright, though.

That is a bit pricey. Are those kits substantially different from the cheaper ones? Here is the kit I bought.

You probably the same/similar wheel diameter and thickness as I do (sorry, I did not save my specs, and they are covered so no longer good for reference). If so, you can order the same cover strip, and punch more holes (in between, and then cut ~2/16" from each edge to make it fit right. Or use the OEM holes, but you will have an unusual wide seam

I did not. The leather itself, though, was soft and flexible. And it stretches when you fit the strip over the wheel, too, because your edges on the inside should have smaller circumference than the center of the strip on the outside, in order to avoid having folds/wrinkles at the seam. I inspected it, before stitching, to estimate how much I should trim from the sides. I stitched it loose at first, then carefully gave it more tension to see how it fits, and it stretched just fine like a baseball skin. I bet they do not use the same leather for shoes... This actually goes along with my original comment regarding having no idea where to get the right kind of leather to do the proper job from scratch.

This parts car looks better than some people's "project" cars 😅

Hm, not sure how an older FI on that Chrysler is setup, but I suspect that a bad crank would not cause engine damage on most cars. The ECU will probably sense that the crank is N/A and fall back to a default back-up running mode, giving you the check engine light. Just saying, I would not be so fast in admitting guilt here

Thank you for the feedback 😃 Absolutely not. It is a very tight fit, the strip was cut leaving a good 1/4" gap, when hugging the wheel, so that it could be stretched conforming to the exact surface shape. It feels basically like a regular leather steering wheel.

I am not very good in physics, but suspect that when two bodies collide, regardless of whether only one or both of them are moving, they experience similar amount of impact. The collective force is basically split 50/50. If the other car had a plastic bumper, it could've also bounced back hiding plenty of damage underneath. That looks like a good parts car, congrats!