Ivan_B

I would respectfully disagree with this statement. The good old brass synchros are still there, and this is probably the main reason we do not use the hypoid oil in the manual gear boxes. Although, some oil manufacturers claim that their oils are just fine, so it is definitely a good idea to read the bottle label. GL1 oil is not recommended for hypoid gears (your average differential) due to the lack of sufficient protection from metal-to-metal friction. More information is available here: https://www.api.org/-/media/files/certification/engine-oil-diesel/publications/1560-eighth-edition-april-2013.pdf BTW, the API has been around since 1919, but I could not find when the GL-1 standard was adopted

I am sorry, sir, did not see you there 😇

Yep, it looks like you have the face-plate on your dash, and just missing the actual radio: https://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=22289 Schematics for C-1608 are available: https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/philco_c1608.html If you find one, you should be able to fix it yourself. I did my C-1708, not so long ago:

I will answer this question with another one: did you check the OEM manual recommendations?

I've also seen them sell gear oil in a soft baggy, this is actually soooo convenient, you can just push it out into the differential with your hands (under all sorts of access restrictions) no mess with cleaning the pump/hose!

+1, these are hypoid gears...

If the suspension components were not setup/working properly all the way around, the car could've been "off balance". For example, if you slightly raise the back driver's side, the front passenger's will go somewhat down due to the changed weight distribution. That just means that the frame was probably not seating perfectly level 😏

That's an interesting wall ornament

Don't worry. One's subjective intent is mostly relevant to determine the degree of culpability when one brEAks the law, but not when one follows it 😉

Sorry for the off-topic, just cracked the local facebook open, and found a couple of potential drivers for under 10k: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/330439536084256 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/413242774707849 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/710986484476180 Also, this Caddy - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/239657462432181 - I actually saw in person, last year. It was sold by owner (at that time) for $17500. I took a very good look at it, and determined that it needed too much work. There are also plenty of non-movable fixer-uppers, in very good condition, for a considerably less money, available for the unforgettable hands-on experience 😉

And it is still not drivable, if I recall, is it? 😑 It seems that the author is interested in the challenging family project, more so than in the actual results, and it is perfectly alright as long as he is making an informed decision. Life is short, we all make our choices accordingly

For the visuals, these might be of some use: https://www.autoweek.com/car-life/classic-cars/a30436944/junkyard-treasure-1947-dodge-custom-sedan/ https://inthegaragemedia.com/1947-dodge-coupe-with-hand-crafted-custom-fender-and-decklid/ The trunk floor edge, from the video above, looks very similar to my 1940 P10.

Are you sure? Have you done this before? I am just playing the conscience, here. I've seen plenty of project cars in considerably better condition that never made it anywhere, for various reasons. An old car is still an old car, it needs plenty of work on regular bases (unless fully restored). Many people here will disagree with my assessment. Nevertheless, it just seems like, maybe, you could spend the same quality time with your grandsons with a much better vehicle, which you'll actually be able to enjoy driving as well... Just think about it, before you've invested too much into this one 🤔

I don't know, for the once-in-a-while DIY stuff, I usually get good results with the simple carb cleaner spray and a tooth brush. If the carb is very dirty, it might also help to clean it with the regular engine de-greaser first, to remove some major dirt and save some of the more expensive carb spray. If you are bothered with the smell, wear a gas mask, you will not feel a thing The more expensive spray also seems to be very "light" so it completely evaporates after use (no liquid waste to dispose of).

Did you clean the engine before painting? I am seeing something that should not be there below the water pump. What's wrong with his OEM (replica?) wires? 🤔

I know this is not what you've asked for, but, I am sorry, I just cannot look straight at something like that. What's your plans for this car? Does it have some sentimental value (grandpa's car) or do you enjoy spending time in the garage for an indefinite period of time, just for the process, etc.? If not - get rid of it, now. This is a parts car, at best, it will literally need everything

I am 😃 Any particular reason you want 12 volts? Just because "everyone does it" does not mean you have to. For example, I always wanted electronic ignition, the reason being - I did not know how to properly service the points. Once I got around to actually learning how it operates, I am totally converted. Absolutely no need to put one into a car that is running perfectly fine with the OEM setup. Or, you can simply get a 6 volt to USB converter for the iPhone and a proper adapter for the stereo (unless it is actually using 12 volts). I am running my AM transmitter and an MP3 player of a tiny 6 volt USB power supply.

I've been away for a month, still have to put them new radiator hoses with an inline filter back together so more content is on its way 😇

The author is from Florida, why are you "Frenching" him? ?

You need to make sure the wheel itself is centered, first. Rotate all the way to the right, then to the left, and count turns. Return the wheel half way back (straight ahead, thereby centering the steering box) and then adjust the rods so that the wheels are also straight ahead, using string and tape measure. If the wheel itself is not straight after you center the steering box (unlikely, unless someone removed it in the past), also adjust the wheel.

I am still using 84-year old mounts, for everything... Got to get those replaced, at some point ?

Good point, that is very true. Same with taxis... ?

Already posted, 7 days ago ?

Quick question: is this also applicable to 40 Ply? My lines look like they are 1/4 all the way ?

There you go Try going through the linkage adjustment process, described in the manual.