Ivan_B

I am wondering, what was the original brake fluid in use for our cars in the 40-50? My 40 manual simply refers to is as "MoPar brake fluid". I did find some images of the old MoPar heavy duty brake fluid tins. They don't list the ingredients but, based upon the listed specs (non-corrosive, flammable, up to 400F operating temperature) it looks like the good-old DOT 2 (castor oil + alcohol). Is that right? The reason I am asking is because I am thinking about switching to DOT 2, for its non-corrosive and non-hygroscopic properties. I have drum brakes (no need for the extra high boiling point) and do not operate the car in cold weather (no issues with the fluid getting a bit thick) 🤔

I also usually see no sense in getting specialized testers (unless you constantly do the same repetitive operations at work, etc.,) considering that a simple digital multi-meter has most of the functions an average DIY'er will ever need

That is funny! And they sure did, I think I still have some in the old tool box.

I agree, but I could not find an old-style fuel filter with a large-enough inlet for the 5/8 hose. Technically, for the looks, I can make a black/tan cloth cover to put over it. You will still see the cover, of course, but would not necessarily be able to guess what's going on underneath

So, this is some sort of movie prop? Ho many cars were actually there? At least 2-3 probably got totaled for filming 🤔

I have finally replaced the hoses and thermostat. I think it works exactly like I expected: the car is now warming up extremely fast, and then settles at about 180. Just as it should

The deed is done.

Who is Christine, and why is someone trying to hook her up with someone else, supposedly without her being aware of it (since no locale was shared)? This topic looks somewhat strange to an outsider, just saying 🤣

I am pretty sure the plug on the first photo is the fill... Not sure about the one at the front-right of the casing, though, my diff does not have it 🤔 I would suggest checking the repair manual for this specific car (assuming the differential is OEM).

Joe, You'll be just fine! If you run into any trouble, there is also a great radio forum available: https://antiqueradios.com/forums/index.php You can always ask those guys for help, like I did. There is also a specific Philco forum, but it has less users, so I did not write there since my questions were about general troubleshooting and not Philco specific. BTW, I think your 41 radio is technically the next model, although, very similar. Just check your old condenser specs (stamped on the side) before ordering the replacements I have listed above. Also, here are a couple of videos for you:

The mechanical vibrator does make a noise while operating, but it is way different from the condenser hum. If you disconnect the speaker and turn-on the radio, you will hear the vibrator buzz. It is normal, and usually not audible while the radio speaker is working over it. In fact, when the radio is cold, the speaker does not "kick-in" until a couple seconds later. So when you turn it on, you hear the vibrator first, and then the speaker a bit later. If the speaker also hums and volume control has no affect, if the filter condenser. Although, if you are still able to tune the stations, it might not be the filter condenser. When it is bad, you get no stations just the hum at constant volume. If the radio has not been re-caped before, you'll need to replace all the condensers anyway. This will likely take care of the issue (if any). When you replace your original 3-in-1 filter condenser with the 3 electrolytic ones, make sure that you follow the proper polarity as indicated on the new caps (+ is actual +, - is actual -, and not your positive ground). If you don't, you'll have to buy new caps like I did 😇 Also, here is some more useful troubleshooting info:

Technically, that was not a typo, since the applicable letters are positioned quite apart from one another 😇 I suspect that I just have the "finger memory" for "brakes" and automatically type it all the time, failing to proofread. I've noticed that in the past: I am thinking about a certain word with a certain spelling, but my fingers are automatically typing something else, several times in a row too... 🤣

Makes sense, thanks for sharing I would say it could be useful to save the pics for later reference, but it is not done to factory specs... I usually save pics of non-restored original cars/parts to know what I need to aim for, later on.

Did you already look in the thread I posted, or inside your own radio?

I believe that you've confused the role assignment in this story. You could've had an emergency and slowed down, no one knows... If there is no minimum speed limit posted and someone is in a hurry - it's their problem.

That is correct. I just did not have any generator noise to begin with.

I don't know... The seller states: "Just completed. Everything restored back to original factory specification." No it's not, and not everything... Is this another one of those "for sale" builds? Maybe a good one, but still... He's got the correct style radiator hose clamps at the large hoses, but the good-old gear worm ones on the heater hoses. Why? Is the carpet molding supposed to be screwed to the floor like that, on a 41? 🤨 Also, is there any particular reason the body was not repainted/undercoated/oiled from the bottom? 🤔 I know, I am being rather picky here, but for the asking price and the aforementioned "everything restored" condition, I have many questions.

I thought we were talking about the right oil for the differential, this whole time... 🤨

+1: most likely its the filter capacitors, if it hums right away and the volume adjustment does nothing - this is it. If it is still original, you'll need to re-cap it, anyway, so start with that:

That did not help at all, in my case, but running resistor plugs - did. I did not go for the insulated core wires, though, since the remaining amount of static is negligible Also, you might not need to install the antenna at all. Are you actually planning to listed to the AM broadcast? There is nothing on it, in most places, these days. Instead, you can broadcast your own signal into your radio, like I did:

I would respectfully disagree with this statement. The good old brass synchros are still there, and this is probably the main reason we do not use the hypoid oil in the manual gear boxes. Although, some oil manufacturers claim that their oils are just fine, so it is definitely a good idea to read the bottle label. GL1 oil is not recommended for hypoid gears (your average differential) due to the lack of sufficient protection from metal-to-metal friction. More information is available here: https://www.api.org/-/media/files/certification/engine-oil-diesel/publications/1560-eighth-edition-april-2013.pdf BTW, the API has been around since 1919, but I could not find when the GL-1 standard was adopted

I am sorry, sir, did not see you there 😇

Yep, it looks like you have the face-plate on your dash, and just missing the actual radio: https://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=22289 Schematics for C-1608 are available: https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/philco_c1608.html If you find one, you should be able to fix it yourself. I did my C-1708, not so long ago:

I will answer this question with another one: did you check the OEM manual recommendations?

I've also seen them sell gear oil in a soft baggy, this is actually soooo convenient, you can just push it out into the differential with your hands (under all sorts of access restrictions) no mess with cleaning the pump/hose!