Ivan_B

Hoods are for cowards! 🥲

Gentlemen, with all due respect, I would refrain from posting practical jokes in the technical forum. You never know when someone might actually consider this as a sound advice 🙄

April fools' day was 8 days ago... 🤨

I suspect that the technically correct search syntax for a specific site search (for the web engines) will be: "engine flush" site:p15-d24.com No need to include the http/www/ftp, etc.

Probably not, sorry I am +1 for the A/C shop. I've tried fixing my own A/C, years ago, the same thing happened - happy cold cruising and then the compressor seized. Not sure what happened, since I did not touch it afterwards. If the shop does the work themselves, at least they should be able to provide you with some warranty. I doubt they will install your parts or work with the DIY installed parts, though.

You have to go into the advanced options, and not hit the search button too often. The search function is not great, but it works

If there is no gas inside, it is probably good. The way you quickly test a metal float is dip it into near-boiling water: no bubbles - you are good to go. In this case, just set your level (according to the manual) and make sure that the seat and needle are clean and look alright. I had some kind of curly debris blocking my needle as well. I had to take the carb apart like ~3 times, before I figured out why it is overflowing 🙄 Also, make sure that the float itself is moving freely and that the float shaft lock (push down) clip is in place. We've had a person, on here, who had it missing, resulting in an incorrect fuel level.

For heat insulation? I've got a 1/2 phenolic spacer, which I did not install, yet, because that will require extending the fuel line. Also got a new fuel line but am now contemplating to get the valve-lifter gaskets replaced as well, while I am in there, so I need the gaskets. I've got an excuse for everything

Just curious: what are those pointy things standing next to each pump station? 🤔 I know. I saw a firefighter waiting for the local post office to open-up, yesterday. He was sitting in a marked car, next to another business that had the word "burn" in its name. I was thinking about making a practical joke, but then he stepped out of the car, wearing the "parade-style" uniform with a white shirt, black dress pants, polished shoes, etc. I was so impressed with the proper attire, I did not go through with the joke 🤣

Yes, this happens all the time, it is overflowing... Also could be doing this with the normal float lever when the gasoline overheats. Make sure that your float still floats, too. Mine was full of gas.

Boot, bonnet - so you know you are talking to a true Englishman 🤣 I was not following your thread, is that the original paint? Looks great!

I do not suppose that hanging suspension (which I believe is the recommended proper storage condition) would cause a windshield crack. The body is separate from the frame, right? So it is not expected to flex much. Besides, even if it did flex, the flexing from the hanging suspension weight would probably be less than similar force working the opposite direction when the car is driven. The simplest explanation of the aforementioned story is that someone probably broke the windshield, or it was already cracked a little, and it spread with time. 🤔

This reminds me of a buddy who went to town to see the anticipated riots (due to a political event) for amusement. He was bragging about running from the cops with the crowds for a week afterwards... Sort of like the bull runs, I suppose 🤣

I found this forum through the good-old Google search. I do not use FB for various reasons. They do cater to a specific community, though. I belong to various automotive forums and, I must admit, this one is one of the best ones in terms of the user experience (knowledgeable people, pleasant communication). Probably due to the fact that the majority of the members are mature adult/retired individuals

Good point, never thought about mice. I suppose I never had to deal with that, for some reason, despite storing cars in mice-prone areas before. I do not believe that you are actually expected to wash the cover. If it gets dirty, you can always quickly pressure-wash it right on the car. However, I suspect that it will deteriorate before you feel the need to have it washed, so you just throw it away and get a new one. To me, a car cover is like a proper storage. If you don't use the car, you wax it and put it away. Also, I do not actually wash my P10 (only wet-wipe it) so I prefer to keep it away from dust and dirt as much as possible.

Did you paint the previously chromed parts? 🤨

I use car covers all the time. Sometimes, even on public lots during the day 😋 The main advantage is that it protects your car from sun. The second advantage is that you can protect the car from elements (rain outside, dust from long inside storage, etc.) and keep it clear longer. The two disadvantages would be: 1) it can scratch the paint, if the car is dirty when covered, or if the cover is not very soft on the inside, and 2) it will trap moisture (I've seen condensation on my vehicles under the "breathable" covers. To avoid the above disadvantages, just don't cover a dirty car, use a good quality soft cover and, if you have noticeable humidity issues, air your car out as needed Moreover, I would recommend a cheap cover, so that you would not hesitate to throw it away when worn. Also, very-very important: when you are buying a cover, make sure it states 100% waterproof, on it. There are plenty of "water repellent", "water resistant", "water shielding", and all sorts of other "water-stuff" covers that will actually let the water through. You don't want that, unless you are planning to use it indoors.

Did not machine the flywheel, I assume? I've had a bad shop replace the clutch in my (modern) car like that, once. When I asked them, what the hell, they told me it was still good... It was hot. A couple days after, the new clutch started showing the same clutch chatter as the old one

Virtually all leaks are "coming" from the back of the engine, eventually 🤣 I am currently anticipating to get my own leaks fixed, as well, since I am noticing some oil loss. The head is alright, bone dry all the way around. But below the manifolds level, things start getting wet. I'll probably start by replacing all of the seals/gaskets on both sides and see how that works out.

It looks like you have a drop of oil (or something) below the crank flange, so I suspect that the seal is leaking a little. This could be not the source of your massive oil leak, though, but it's a leak alright. Since you have the gearbox out, it could be a good time for a new seal. If you are dealing with multiple leaks, you might benefit from using one of those UV dyes for the engine oil. As for the clutch disk, I've just seen them broken springs, before, on relatively good-looking (but antiquated) clutches. Probably just the metal fatigue. But do make sure that you get the correct replacement for your specific car Do you have the repair manual for your car? This is usually helpful for checking the diagrams for missing/incorrectly installed parts, etc. If you have not already seen it, here is the Chrysler clutch troubleshooting video from 1948, which could be applicable:

Did you oil the paint to make in shiny, or is it clear-coated?

This does look like the real crank seal leak. And you do need a new clutch, it's a relatively common issue

Yes, it appears that the truck installation, indeed, uses the firewall for support. You should be okay fabricating the bracket, then.

That is very true, and the same goes for things like electronic ignition, modern carburetor/FI, disc brakes, oil bath filter, and just about anything else people do not necessarily know how to work with

Is the screw on the rear going into the firewall? Usually there should be a bracket on it, that bolts to the dash support.