Ivan_B

I am not sure. Do you still have the old metal line sticking from the carb? It should have a flare connection. You can take that line with you to the store and get a gas-resistant hose that fits, and clamp it to the metal line. Also, the OEM system should have a rubber hose between the fuel pump (on the engine) and the metal line (mounted to the body). You can just cut that hose and connect your new hose in there. However, I would not mess around with a temporary tank unless you are just testing (and you do not need a temporary tank for testing). I would definitely not attempt to drive with one. Just get the old tank and lines cleaned, it is not difficult and should not take long.

I see, yeah. Normally do not want to see these during the day because if you do - you are too close 😂

Is that any different then observing them at night time?

What are you planning to do for the rubber floor mat, up front?

Mine is 5/16 as well; copper lines work well and are easy to work with. Make sure that you read the description well, plenty of sellers sell copper-plated lines (which are fine as well, unless that's not what you are looking for, of course).

At this point, I am still debating whether or not to keep it. I am definitely accumulating some sediment. But, for some reason, this strainer's flow accumulates the dirt inside the mesh cylinder, and not outside as I would expect. I have followed the correct installation instructions, but am actually thinking about reversing it, because the mesh is glued in place and not removable (hard to clean on the inside, and difficult to see whether or not it is full).

That's a good point. For starters, filling it with boiling water and checking for leaks should probably be sufficient. The non-pressurized system is great, by the way! No need to gorilla-clamp the hose connectors, etc.

This looks like the standard B&B kit, which will fit multiple carbs. I am pretty sure I've got something similar off e-bay or amazon, last time. It will probably have some extra parts you won't use. Also, before you replace the jets, check to make sure that they are the same size. And don't forget to make sure that your float is nice and empty

some helpful visuals, here:

If your steering box is the same/similar to the 1938-40 models, the wire comes out at the bottom. Visually draw a line, parallell to the steering shaft and continuing right through the box and look where it would come out. In order to get the wire in there, you can try pushing it from the bottom-up, or use a tiny solid wire to pull it through (similar to what you'll use to get it through a wall in the house, etc.

How's voltage drop has anything to do with the switch? Are you monitoring the battery voltage and it goes down when you turn-on the ignition, or something like that? Please provide more info about the underlying problem. To test the switch itself, you would normally check for continuity on the applicable contacts in applicable positions, with the multi-meter.

How do you call people who start touching, climbing, taking pictures, etc.? Or is the British car-show culture extremely civilized? 🤔 This happened to me in a park, once. And, for some reason, the photographer stared running away when he saw me approaching, as if he's done something naughty... Come on, this is public property, I could not shoo him away even if I wanted to

When the radiator is out of the car, you can do anything you want, even take the core apart Plug the overflow, put it on the front side, poor vinegar inside, leave for a few hours, drain (do not discard yet) check the results. If not good enough - repeat. If you want to use commercial products, like the coffee maker/cattle cleaner, you can boil it with some water and poor inside your radiator. When the acid treatment is done, flush it with the garden hose, both ways. Once that is done, flush with distilled water, and dry.

Heck, I think 55 is too fast, I drive 45... 😋

Now, imagine how it looked to people hundreds and thousands of years ago, who did not even know what it was. 🙄 I am outside of the "dark path" 🤣

Next time you take something complicated apart, without a spare that is, take some pictures with your phone first 😜

Just make sure that you wait for a couple of good rains to wash the salt of the roadways, up north

Always the MoPar season down the south way 😋 For some reason, though, Florida is not really big on classic cars. You do not see many of them around here (except for special events, I guess). Do not see many in people's driveways or garages either 🙄

Is that corrosion on the head, bolts, and clamps? Also, do I see "orange peel" on the paint? 🙄

Thanks. I already got the NOS off E-Bay. I like the accordion style bellows 🤣

Yes, I had to look up what denaturated alcohol actually is. What a waste of ethanol 🤣

A little sealant should do it

Would you mind posting what it says? Just curious. Because the only one you can mix DIY, I know of, is castor + butanol. I understand that this sounds pretty sketchy, but back then it was actually the commercial fluid recipe, similar to how you would buy antifreeze today - either 50/50 mix, or some concentrate and distilled water Thus far, it looks like regardless of what non-glycol fluid I switch to, I will need to replace the rubber and flush the system. I do need to replace the rear metal lines, due to corrosion, concerns. Not sure if I want to go a full rebuild, at this point, though. 🤔

The rod tip was probably brazed with soft metal for good seal, at the factory, but it ain't good anymore. Sealing that part up is pretty much the standard step during service, I think.

A licked finger cheap? Just don't stick it into high current applications 😅