jcmiller

I agree with this. Also, the Portland chapter of the POC doesn't resemble the descriptions above of the POC. I think the chapter president just put a slant 6 in his P15 and there is a Dodge pictured on the website under members' cars. I have noticed that the national monthly magazine seems weighted toward the 4-cylinder cars.

Don't push so hard that you lose control of the door and fling it open into your engine stand ....

The Suburban is listed as just 4,012 pounds, similar to some other vehicle's listed here. It sounds like some of the suggested engine swaps would get you below 4,000.

Looks great Chop! I hope to see it in person one of these days.

This book has a wealth of info: Chrysler Engines: 1922-1998 by Willem L. Weertman, SAE International (October 26, 2007).

That does look nice. This thread prompted me to look it up on Youtube. In this video, the guy uses a silkscreen at the end to apply the paint to the letters and numbers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jb8IvCaGdc&feature=player_detailpage

I did it slightly differently. When you install Dropbox, it creates a "public" folder on your computer. You copy the file you want to share into that folder. Then you right click on the file and select "copy public link." Then you paste the link into email, forums, etc.

I have Dropbox too, but have not used the feature before. Here is a link to the video: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/49881853/ItDrives3.wmv

Thanks to many of you here on the forum, we were able to take my '42 out for its first drive in about ten years. I was worried about the brakes since I completely rebuilt them and live at the top of a big hill, but they worked just fine. The engine, on the other hand, was pretty hard to keep running. My friend Byron was able to keep it going with a lot of maneuvering of the pedals and dash controls, but it died on me at a stop and I couldn't get it going again. I think a carburator rebuild is in order. (I have a short video, but it's 2 MB and I don't see how to post it here.)

I've been reading a lot about autonomous cars lately, and I can't help but think that we only have a couple of decades left to actually drive cars, except by special permit. By all accounts, autonomous cars will be far safer than those driven by humans. It won't take long for insurance rates to skyrocket for those choosing to drive their own vehicle. It will probably take longer for the legal system to catch up, but eventually a person will be deemed negligent for choosing to drive. Ultimately, it won't be allowed at all except on special occasion when clubs arrange for a permit for their members to take manually operated cars out on a predetermined route. While autonomous cars will save a lot of lives, reduce fuel use and the need for new roads, and eliminate parking hassles, it will also be kind of sad when we can't drive anymore.

My shipping need was somewhat unusual as the car was on an island so I only had 5-6 bids to look at. Plus the car was a wreck so I was not concerned about insurance and not very concerned about potential damage during shipping. The lowest priced were the brokers but I went with a local independent operator who I could communicate with directly. I think you can filter out the brokers when you place your ad if you don't want to consider them at all. Good luck with it.

Take a look at uship.com. You post your needs and shippers make offers. You're not obligated to accept any of them. I used it recently to ship a car and it worked well for me. Can anyone here recommend a shipping company or know of any to stay away from?

Use the sheet metal reference to determine parts interchanges. It looks like the side molding on your hood is unique to that year, at least for the coupes. For the door trim, 1942 will work as well as 1941 and 1942 Desoto (maybe Chrysler too). You can find it on this website at http://p15-d24.com/files/file/66-moparsheetmetal-1940-1949pdfzip001zip-and-002zip/ or here: http://www.pwchryslerclub.org/resources.html

49,139 2-dr sedans

There's a 1936-42 manual at http://p15-d24.com/files/file/67-1936-1942-plymouth-service-manual/ that has the specs (pg 32).

It's looking good, but I think we only have a couple weeks of summer left here in the NW!

The right and left front portions, to the side of the removable portion, appear to be the same for 1942-48. Don't know about the portions behind the removable section.

Try getting it here: http://www.pwchryslerclub.org/resources.html It has the whole manual in one, large pdf file. No unzipping required. But make sure you right-click the link (on the destination webpage) and select download to computer. Then you'll have it on your own computer and can open it directly instead of using your internet browser. It is text searchable but the OCRing did not work very well. I recommend that you not rely on text search and instead manually check each division for cross-reference information.

I think that tag next to the VIN is a sign that it is a factory replacement engine. See page 3 of this judging guide. The guide discusses Model 220 and yours says Model 219, but the guide says other replacement engines were issued. It looks like there are some other numbers on the VIN pad that were not completely ground off. You might be able to get those by putting a piece of paper on it and shading with a pencil. Judging Guide.pdf

You can confirm this using the 1940-48 Chrysler Sheet Metal reference in the download section of this website.

The clips I have are pictured here as part type 12-15-8. I talked to another guy with a '42 and he also struggled and gave up on the NOS clips. They pop off and scrape the paint off the holes when you force them into place. I'll check into the other options, including plastic. I guess the t-bolts on mine were missing. The end of the molding goes into the headlight trim ring so I don't know if a t-bolt will be necessary as the trim ring holds that end down firmly. 191.pdf

What are fender molding t-bolts used for? They are listed for the 1941 and 1942 years. They are in addition to the molding clips. I have NOS clips and am trying to attach fender moldings without much luck. The clips pop out of the molding when I push the back of the clip through the holes in the fender. I then went to the parts book and found these t-bolts listed. They don't seem to be on the 1946-48 models. Thx.

FYI, I was referring to the post by Dixiepaul rather than the earlier one by jd52.

I think the D24 means 1946-48 Dodge, 230 ci.

I'm done with NAPA. The rebuilt pump I ordered did not have the flange to allow the external bypass setup and was difficult to spin by hand. When we looked at it more closely, we discovered that the housing was broken from when they pressed in the new internals. I guess I'll get mine rebuilt after all.