jcmiller

I used a measuring device to check the gauge of the sheet metal in the removable floor pan in my '42 and got a reading of 19. I thought I read on here somewhere that the gauge was 20. Does anyone know for sure what gauge was used?

This was my first car. I bought it in 1983 when I was 15 and managed to hold onto it until 2006 when I sold it in a moment of weakness to avoid taking out another school loan. When I graduated in 2008 and started earning money I tried to locate it, but it had been shipped to New York (from Oregon) where I think it may have been turned into a hemi clone. I'd still like to find a green on green 1970 Gran Coupe one of these days.

The one on the left looks like vertical pieces on my '42 that connect to both sides of the dust/gravel pan.

What is this term "dial up users"?

Thanks for all the encouragement and tips. I'm not getting a lot of support at home for it and people at work think I'm nuts. So it's good to hear from folks who love cars. I've really been encouraged watching pflaming go to work on that convertible. Yes, it's a New Yorker and the rockers are toast. I've got a few more pictures and the driver side floor and rockers and body mounts are basically missing all the way to the frame. I don't have a good picture of the passenger side but I assume it's the same. It's been stored outside, probably on dirt, for a long time. The engine and transmission don't come with it, although the engine may still be in the area with the third to last owner. He offered to sell it to the current owners a while back but they declined. Supposedly most of the trim is in the trunk. I'm starting a welding/metalworking class tomorrow night.

It's a 1946. I don't plan to take the whole 6 months to decide but have that long if necessary. Part of the reason for the time is to hopefully get my wife to warm up to the idea. She was adamant about not buying it outright, but was OK with the option. The "it's about the same as a pair of boots and a haircut" argument didn't work very well.

I thought I'd revive this thread since I'm considering the purchase of a complete wreck, as shown. I don't have the skills yet for a car this far gone, but I love these cars and there are not many around. I paid a deposit to the current owners in exchange for a 6-month period to consider whether to go through with the purchase. Besides the condition of the car, title may also be an issue.

It's kind of ironic to complain about losing rights and then call for a ban on posting of an opinion. But I do think it would be good to keep OT opinions to threads that are clearly labeled as such. There is an OT thread for the Connecticut tragedy that is clearly labeled. I've avoided it because I don't want to read about gun control opinions here. But now I've stumbled into it.

Thanks guys. If I can get one for $9 that will be a pretty inexpensive lesson. I'll contact Valley Vintage tomorrow.

I was hoping today would be the end of a long, slow brake job. Everything was back together and the brakes adjusted; I just needed to add the fluid. I figured there would be a leak or two, but unfortunately the leak was where the brass t-fitting screws into the back of the master cylinder so I couldn't just tighten it. In the process of taking that area apart and tightening things up, I turned a small leak into a big one by mucking up the threads on one of the outlets on the T. Does anyone have an extra to sell? The part number is 868048 and it looks like it may be unique to the '42s. A picture of the part is attached. Thanks.

Must not be any lawyers in Brazil. Or the "victims" are actors too.

Sounds like you should make the trade and then sell it to Rick.

Here is their website through google translate: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&sl=et&tl=en&u=http://veterantehnika.ee/ From there you can click on project car links, including one for this Plymouth. From that page there is a link to another forum that looks like it has some good stuff.

Thanks Tod. The picture doesn't show it, but there is a slight taper to the hub shaft. But perhaps it is so slight that the speedi-sleeve will still work. That's a helpful tutorial that you put together.

Have you heard of using a speedi-sleeve for a tapered shaft? I've checked around and it looks like they are just for straight shafts. I think you're right that the groove is not a design feature. I compared both sides closely and the grooves are not identical.

The seals arrived and everything is pretty much back together. I know I should check the axle end play but don't have the gauge or the know-how. Is it reasonable to skip it since I kept track of the shims and reinstalled them the same way? Assuming I need to do it, I see from the manual that to check the axle end play you attach a dial gauge to the backing plate and the tip of the gauge to the end of the axle. Do you hit the other side with a hammer to check the movement? It seems like it should read the same on either side - is that right? Last, I noticed there is a pronounced groove on the rear hubs (see picture). It's probably wishful thinking, but it looks like it is machined and intended to be there. Is it?

Thanks for the Greyhound tip. I tried getting a quote through their website but couldn't get it to work and got frustrated with it. We're just going to use UPS.

I have a scanned version of the 1936-42 manual that I can email to you. As Bob-T pointed out, the specific 1942 parts manual is really helpful. A really good internet parts reference for our cars is at: http://chetscoins.com/1948p15/DocumentWeb/

I bought some larger parts for my '42 Plymouth from a guy in Grand Rapids. He's having a hard time getting it all packaged up to ship and shipping is going to be rather pricey. Please send me a PM if you're on your way from that area to Portland, OR or Boise, ID and willing to take some parts for a reasonable price in the next few months. The parts are the piece of sheet metal that lives under the front bumper on '42s, the "scoop" or pan that it is connected to and that connects near the radiator, and a large piece of trim for the grill. Thx.

Thanks Rich. I contacted the guy who has the same kind for sale to see if the packaging had an explanation. It did - the protrusion in the housing is to collect any oil that makes its way past the seal. The collected oil then drips back through the hole where the 5th bolt is supposed to be. Of course I learned this about 2 hours after ordering the 5 bolt seals from the other vendor you pointed out. The HOTCO Grease Seal catches all grease caused by leaking inner retainers & bypasses it out the back of the backing plate, saves brake lining, saves rear wheels from locking, skidding, increases brake lining life. Instructions: Simply remove bottom nut & bolt & discard, leaving opening for drain & install. It is recommended to use (a gasket seal) for positive results. You stop all come back on your brake job, due to grease on the lining or drum.

I started putting it back together tonight and gave the outer axle driveshaft bearing oil seals some additional scrutiny. I thought it was odd that there were only four bolts holding it and the backing plate on when there are five holes in the axle housing. I checked the parts book and it says there should be 10 total bolts for both axles and not just 8. I guess I need to get new seals and a couple more bolts. The strange thing about these seals is that there is a fifth hole in back, but no apparent way to get a nut on a bolt. It's covered up by a rounded portion on the front.

Thanks Ed. It's all starting to make more sense now. On the other thread, the person mentioned reattaching the slide hammer and giving it a couple whacks, probably to seat the races, like your technique will do. I'm looking forward to getting to it this weekend. Do you put a any kind of sealant on the shims?

I tapped the axle bearing cups (races) in so the outside of the cups are level with the surface of the shims, when the shims are held up to the face of the axle housing. Is that correct? Or should the races be level with the actual surface of the axle housing face? I read in another thread that the cups should touch the backing plate, so it seems like they need to be level with the shims. Thx.

I've got the brakes put back together from the front to the junction on the rear axle. Now I have to stop procrastinating and deal with the axle seals. Regarding the shims, do they need to be coated with a sealant of some sort? Also, on one of these threads I read about someone who tapped the driveshaft bearing cup in too far, making the axle hard to turn. Would it work to just tap it in a bit to get it started and then push it the rest of the way by reinstalling the backing plate? Before and after pics of the master cylinder below. It looks good, but somehow makes the rest of the car look that much crappier.

While struggling (unsuccessfully) to reinstall the spring clips that hold the flexible/hard brake line junction in place, I noticed the clips had a patent number stamped on them. In desperation, I looked the number up on the U.S. Patent Office website and was able to download the six-page patent application for a "securing means." While I hoped there was a trick to it, the application seems to confirm that a BFH is in order: "It will be noted that as the legs pass into the recesses and are engaged by the upper sides thereof, the clip is flattened and the legs twisted slightly, and I have found it most desirable that the resiliancy of the clip be such that a material pressure need be exerted to force the clip into its position of final engagement." The application is attached, along with a nice diagram. Tod - Thanks for the input. I rubbed a little bit of Sil Glyde on the felt washers. Pages from 01875209-1-3.pdf Pages from 01875209-4-6.pdf