jcmiller

"The side-sweep is held to the door frame by little spring clips, and to the garnish moulding with heavy wire "staples"." Does anyone have a photo of the little spring clips referred to in this old post? My outside sweep was held in with sheet metal screws, and I want to use the correct clips on the replacement sweep. Also, on my sweeps the bead was down on the garnish moulding sweep and up on the door sweep. Is that correct for a 1942 Plymouth? Thx.

Take a look at uship.com. It works kind of like Ebay. You input what you want shipped and shippers bid on the job. I used it once for a car and had a good mix of bids, some from brokers and a few from local guys.

I had great luck with Hagens too. http://hagensautoparts.com/

Just to close the loop on this, I was finally able to get the springs attached today with the help of a neighbor. I laid in the trunk and held the lid up with my feet while he supported the lid near a hinge. Then I removed a pin, moved the lid around a bit to get the end of the spring in the slot, and then reinserted the pin, then repeated for other side. It's really nice to finally have this working properly. It took a long time and required the purchase of a parts car.

I thought of that too but have not tried it yet because I'll have to round up a couple neighbors to help. If there is not a trick or a tool that will compress the spring, I will try this.

That's the old hinge, which has now been replaced.

It's been a while and I had to buy a whole parts car to get the trunk springs. I now have the new spring/hinges attached to the trunk lid and the trunk lid attached to the car. It's designed so you are supposed to be able to lift the trunk lid all the way open and then attach the other end of the springs into slots on the car side of the hinges. Unfortunately, for one reason or another, it comes up about an eighth inch short. (Yes, bumpers are removed and lid is all the way up.) I looked into renting a valve spring compressor but that doesn't work because you can't get to both ends of the springs. I need something that can slip into the springs so it needs to have a slight angle on it. Any ideas? My backup plan is to detach the remove the trunk lid and insert that end of the springs first and then reattach the lid, but it wasn't easy getting the trunk lid on without having to deal with that. Thanks.

I emailed Nevada DMV: A friend bought an antique car in California that has a valid CA title. He wants to move the car to Nevada and get a Nevada title. On some older cars, California used a code stamped on the engine block as the official VIN instead of the serial number stamped on the car body. This car still has the original engine so the engine code matches the VIN on the CA title. He has been told that he cannot title the car in Nevada until he gets the title "fixed" in CA. That doesn't seem correct because the title is valid in CA and doesn't need to be fixed there. Can you advise on what his options are to title this car in Nevada? Response: Good Morning, This title is fine. Bring the vehicle to the Vehicle Inspection Station first before going into DMV. They may issue a new vehicle identification number at that time. Betsy Burg Central Services Department Title Research DMV Tech I 775-684-4810 BBurg@dmv.nv.gov I can forward the email to you if you PM your email address to me.

The attached may or may not help. It shows the parts numbers for the following years, but not for 1935. From: http://www.1948plymouth.info/1948p15/DocumentWeb/default.php password is "password" 164.pdf

If I'm reading the parts list correctly, part # is 1119-410 and is same on all 1946-48 cars (all mopar divisions). Described as brake tube tee - left sidemember.

Here are prices from a few companies from two years ago: http://p15-d24.com/topic/29600-best-brake-cylinder-mc-rebuild-shops/

I found my '46 New Yorker on the islands too. The rockers and floor are even worse than your truck. Here are some pictures of some more trucks on Orcas Island - mostly Fords though. http://imgur.com/a/SglDJ#0 http://imgur.com/a/nHIv7#0

I have an extra assembly, removed from a '42 parts car, available for a reasonable price if anyone wants to add a second one to their car ...

Vermont?

Thanks everyone. I bought those clips posted on Ebay. Ed, PM me if you want some - I think I'll use 20 or less for the divider and there are 40. Jeff

Can someone please post a picture of the "spring clips" used to attach the cardboard panel that is inside the trunk and attached to the rear seat support? I've been told that Restoration Specialties carries them, but I can't find them, probably because I don't know what they look like. Thanks!

There were some old trucks. Not sure about pilot house. It was a one time auction of the Charles Kee estate.

I was stupid and fixated on a car that a bunch of other people also wanted (68 Sport Fury convertible with HP 440 and 4 spd). It quickly went above what I wanted to pay. There were some great deals on some large 2-dr 1960's Mopars. There were some that looked pretty good that went for $300-400. A guy that helped me out by scoping the Fury got a great deal on a '65 Barracuda w/ 273 commando. He was just planning to go to the preview but ended up staying the night in Bend and buying a car. Wish I could have been there in person. Wayfarer - pretty good luck to have such an auction in your neighborhood. Who were the scrappers? Most of those cars didn't seem ready for scrap.

Huge collection of Mopar cars, parts cars, and parts. Starts now, but I think you can still sign up for online bidding. I think you have two weeks to collect items. http://murphyauction.com/Auction/Catalog/578 (Their getting real bids though; lots 18 & 19 went for $250 combined. Lot 21 was $65.)

Thanks, I'll try using a lacquer based primer sealer on that coating before final painting. I don't know if it's original or not. It's only in the very lowest part of the trunk. The rest is painted black. I'm not doing any metal repair right now. I had the trunk lid off to replace the springs and thought it would be a good time to clean and repaint. It's amazing how much dirt was in there. Thanks for the tip on the Henry's.

When using some kerosene to clean some oily dirt from my trunk, the kerosene interacted with and removed a coating that was on a portion of the trunk floor. That led me to use Rustoleum bare metal primer in that area. Where the primer overlaps with this coating, the coating bleeds through and turns the white primer brownish. See attached picture. I'm concerned that that this same sort of thing will occur when I apply the top coat of Rustoleum enamel. Should I put a different type of product between the original coating that reacts with kerosene/Rustoleum primer and my final enamel topcoat?

Look at the rules for lost titles as well. Since the car is another state, you should check the rules of that state to see if they are more favorable than Ohio's. It may be easier to get it titled there before you move it. I wouldn't hesitate to contact the past owner after you do the research. He may still have the title, or may have lost it and can sign an affidavit to that effect, or can at least sign a statement affirming he turned it over to the salvage yard. I think the risks are low that the person would try to take the car, but if it turns out they have a legitimate claim it is better to find out now than after you spend more time and money on it.

I think so too.

These guys do a great job rebuilding them, although it is kind of pricey. http://www.autofriction.com/home.html

Thanks for the replies. (I replied yesterday morning but the message isn't here.) I learned about the two options and just asked the buyer to add that to the total. He did so and now there is money in my Paypal account. Next up is trying to connect it to my bank account so I can transfer it over. I don't think there are any fees for that because it is a US account. It's a pretty slick way to sell things.