jcmiller

I think it's going to be great when this technology gets a little cheaper and more widely available. It's progressing rapidly. I think the Aston Martin guy is using plastic, but there are 3-D printers that use metal too (and even food). I think car enthusiasts will be able to scan and "print" replica parts at home in less than ten years. I do wish they would stop calling it 3-d "printing" because I think a lot of people think that means printing a 3-d image on a piece of paper. Here are a couple more links on it: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/news/vintage-speed/3d-printing-can-now-re-create-an-entire-classic-car-15566080 http://gpiprototype.com/services/metal-3d-printing.html

That occurred to me this morning as well. I think you might be right. The fluid seems to be coming out of the bolt hole, but it could still be the gasket allowing fluid into the hole. I guess I'll replace it. So much for a first drive this weekend.

I've got a leak from the lowest bolt that holds the water pump on. I removed it, cleaned the threads, and applied plenty of Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE (white). I let it sit for about 10 days before refilling, but I still have the leak. Am I using the wrong sealant? I tried to find the brown goop at hardware and auto parts stores but couldn't find it.

As an FYI, you add a "pin" to the map by typing a location in the input box after clicking "update your location." (You don't enter your username and click on the map.) I entered my city but you can probably add an address or a county or a state, depending on how specific you want to be. If you enter a location that has already been "pinned," a new pin will not appear, but you can see the list of users associated with the pin by clicking on it.

Yeah, I would not use a heat gun. Besides the obvious fire risk, lead is easily vaporized and inhaled. I used a narrow plastic putty "knife" to collect it into a tub. I'll drop it off at the next household hazardous waste collection event.

Yeah, I finally figured this out after not being able to access the site for a day or so. I contacted pair Networks because that is what the error message says to do, but they said to contact the website administrator. Of course you can't do that when you can't get on the site! I wonder if you can set up some kind of domain forwarding or broadcast an email to the users so they know how to get back in.

Welcome back!

I had the car hauled and the tow truck/dolly set-up seemed to work just fine. One nice thing about that system is you don't have to roll the car or even inflate tires (although inflated tires helps). The guy did a good job for a reasonable price and was good about communicating. If you're in the NW and need a car hauled and want his contact info let me know. The U-ship system worked well too. When I accepted the bid, I made payment to U-ship, which gave me a "payment code." When the car was delivered I gave the payment code to the hauler who then used it to collect his fee.

The New Yorker arrived in my driveway last night about 10. I haven't had a chance to go over it in detail, but it's pretty far gone. I'll go over it the next few weeks and decide what to do with it. I really like the lines of the car. My 10-yo son agrees. He said if had "the force" he'd swap it with the '42 Plymouth sitting in the garage. My daughter, on the other hand, is pretty much horrified by it.

What function does that material provide? I noticed some scraps of paper on mine but didn't know it served an important function. I just had the rollers sandblasted and then painted them. I have not completed the reinstallation yet.

You only pay going to the islands, so there won't be a charge for the extra length coming back. I talked to a bunch of guys before settling on this. I would probably pick a flatbed if the costs were closer together, but $120 is not insignificant, plus this guy seems like a pro and is a good communicator. I used Uship, by the way, which I just learned about. If you have not heard of it, you should check it out. You can post what you need hauled and from/to and shippers then can bid on the job. I had 5 bids. This one was not the cheapest, but I'd rather work with the actual operator than a broker in Florida. It seems like a really good solution for bulky car parts on Ebay.

Thanks for all the quick feedback guys. I'm paying to have it done. He said all four wheels will be suspended. One end will be lifted by the tow vehicle, and the other by the dolly. Based on what you have said, I feel pretty comfortable with it and will probably take that option. This is the car that is on an island, and this setup saves a lot on the ferry ticket. It costs $200-250 for a truck/trailer combo for the ferry ride.

I'm arranging a 300 mile haul of a 1946 Chrysler. It's about $120 less to use a wheel lift/tow dolly compared to a flatbed or trailer. The hauler said that if the frame and suspension are solid, the wheel lift/tow dolly should be fine. Would it be penny-wise and pound-foolish to go that route? Thx.

You must be referring to red and golden delicious apples which I agree are tasteless mushy pulp and which I also won't eat. But there are dozens of other varieties grown in Washington (and Oregon), some of which are crisp and flavorful, and others which are flavorful but not so crisp.

I'm arranging for a car to be moved from Orcas Island to Portland, OR. It will probably take two trips because mainland haulers don't want to deal with the ferry and want me to get the car to Anacortes. That means I might need temporary storage in Anacortes. I'm writing to see if there are any forum members from that area who can help me out either by providing short term storage or giving me some ideas on where I might be able to store it. I'm still working out the details do I don't know exactly how long it will be yet. It could be just a few hours or somewhat longer, depending on the schedules of the haulers. Thanks.

The 218 and 230 teardown links on the tech menu on this website are helpful for the disassembly side of things.

I took some pictures for you. I hope they are helpful. It's hard to get good pics of that area. I can't guarantee that this is set up correctly - the spring attachments don't look right, for instance. But it generally corresponds with the parts manual so I think it is pretty close.

I was able to remove it this morning. I could only move it a millimeter or less with just my hands. I used a large screwdriver as a lever against the block and applied a very slight amount of pressure to the triangular part at the end. That popped it loose and I was able to easily remove it after that. It's the second time in a month where I have been amazed at how little lever action pressure it takes to move something that I just can't budge with my bare hands.

It's an old engine that was stuck. A couple of the valves were quite difficult to remove, which I think might be why it was stuck. The cam turns freely now. You answered my question though - it should come out without a puller. I'll keep working at it and apply a bit more force. Thanks to you all.

Yes, everything is out - pistons, oil pump, crank - everything. The camshaft is basically the only still thing in the engine.

Sorry about that! Yes, the valves and springs are out and the lifters are moved up and out of the way. The two bolts holding the cam to the block are removed. The engine is on a stand.

Do you typically need to use a puller of some sort to remove the camshaft? The manual and the 218 Teardown article in the Tech section of this website indicate that it should slide right out, but that is not what I am finding. Thx.

I'm pretty sure the other end of the springs with the caps sit right on the shoe. The '42s came with one shoe lining shorter than the other. The 1936-1942 manual has the specs (attached). brakeSpecs.pdf

Thank you. I guess I just needed the green light to use a hammer. That did the trick. All the keepers are off and only two disappeared in the process. I tried the magnet trick but a couple escaped, one of which flew across the room and landed somewhere on the work bench.

I'm using the same kind of tool shown in Don's picture above to remove valve springs. I thought that when I compressed the spring, the end of the valve stem would become exposed so I can remove the keepers. However, the valve just moves up with the spring, also as shown in Don's photo. The head is off so I built a wood frame around the engine to hold the valves down, but that is not working either, despite putting quite a bit of pressure on the spring. What am I doing wrong? Thx.