jcmiller

I'm selling a part and the buyer wants to pay me via PayPal because he is in a hurry to get the part. I've paid via PayPal but have not been paid that way. It looks like with a personal account you can accept a payment and then transfer it to your bank account without any fees, but on the other hand it looks like PayPal has a service charge for sellers. Is that just for commercial operations? Anyone use it for accepting an occasional payment? Thx.

You guys are good! Thanks.

Can anyone identify any of these engines? There are 2 in one photo. I know the third is a hemi, but can you tell which version from just this photo? Thx.

Good idea. I think I need to do that too. I'm trying to get my front parking lights/blinkers to work and the current wiring is not even close to what the original wiring diagrams say it should be.

If I am reading the sheet metal parts reference correctly (available at http://www.pwchryslerclub.org/resources.html), Dodge, Desoto, and Chrysler club coupe and 3-window coupe doors interchange (between divisions too), but the part numbers are different for 41, 42, and 46-48.

The part numbers are the same for 1946-1948 (1152-263 (right); 1152-264 (left)). The division bar is held to the glass with rubber "tape," at least on my '42. I think there is an official name for the rubber material, but I can't think of it.

The sheet metal reference shows those markings on the 1946-48 valence. MoparSheetMetal-1940-1948.BMP

I put a WTB ad in the local Plymouth Club bulletin a while back for a straight eight engine with transmission. Yesterday I got an email response that looked suspicious but I decided to send a short reply. When he failed to tell me where it is and asked for the year/model, I gave him bogus info to see if he would point out the problem or keep trying to sell me something. He replied with a picture of an engine that was clearly incorrect, asking $550 (thread below). I was able to find the same picture by googling "1948 dodge engine transmission." It's a Buick engine, currently listed on Ebay, obviously by someone else. I'm trying to think of a good response. Any suggestions? "David": Hello, I have attached the picture of my 1948 Dodge sedan engine/transmission for sale asking price is $550, let me know if my price is OK and i will also need your shipping address thanks. Hope to hear from you soon next. Me: 1948 Dodge sedan. Where is the engine/transmission? "David": Please , let me know the year and model of your car to ensure the correct moto thanks. Me: Hi David, I'm replying to your email about the straight 8 engine and transmission you have for sale. Where is the engine/transmission? Thanks, Jeff "David": Hello I have 1946-48 era Chrysler straight 8 engine and transmission for sale in a sound condition , please send me an email if you are interested , for pictures and price thanks. Have a nice day .

I'll be watching this with interest. I have a '46 3-window that has similar issues.

Rich - No need to do that. I don't want to make someone do work. I'm hoping someone just knows this to be true. Thanks, Jeff

I've checked a bunch of part numbers between the P14 and the P15 coupes and it looks like all the sheet metal from the cowl back is the same, except for the rear fenders and the trunk lid. Same with the glass. Does that sound right? I find myself with an extra better-than-average 1942 coupe body that I need to get rid of. I've only been reaching out to 1942 owners. If this is true, it would greatly improve my chances of finding interested persons. Thx.

In my p14, you disconnect glass and channel from regulator and remove as a unit. Two clips hold it to regulator. You remove the clips while the window is in the down position.

I've been wondering about this too. My horn ring is broken and I can't find a replacement. The mating surfaces are so small that I don't think a repair will work though.

SMS Fabrics will also send samples. You can email them pictures and they try to get as close as possible.

My block has a casting date cast into it at the bottom of the block, near the distributor.

There is a guy parting out a D-24 in the buy/sell section of the AACA forum who might have hinges. He recently posted. If I'm reading the parts manual correctly, the P-15 hinges won't interchange, but Desoto and Chrysler will.

You post about talcum powder you get ads about skin cream ...

Here's another one from the same collection - a 1942 Plymouth on the road near Mt. Rainier.

Here is a neat picture of a Chrysler/Plymouth dealership in Ritzville, WA. I think it may have been taken in 1947 because one of the plates appears to have that date on it.

Here's an 8-dr New Yorker airporter: http://forums.aaca.org/f145/chrysler-6-door-limo-345391.html

I think they are based on cookies that keep track of your browser history ...

Thanks Donald. I figured the same thing out on a long, hard run this afternoon. Sometimes you just have to step away. It's deceptive when you take it apart because you just see the spring pushing into the contact plate, leading you to believe there is already a circuit. But as you point out, when you fasten the horn ring back on with the hub cover, it pushes the spring down a little more - just off the contact plate. I was also using incorrect terminology. I kept saying button to refer to the hub cover, which is not a button at all - just something that holds the horn ring down. When I first took it apart, the 3 screws holding that down were not very tight. Now that I have removed the tape I put on earlier, lined the horn ring lugs up carefully with the top of the spring, and fastened everything securely - it's working! Thanks for your help.

I don't see any insulation on my ground cup either, so I put electrical tape on it to separate it from the spring - now there is no horn at all. I took the opportunity to polish up the horn ring so at least that looks nice now. I'm going to take out that tape, put it all back together, and hope for the magic.

I've got a similar problem and it has me stumped. When I connect the wire leading out of the column to the relay, the horn sounds continuously. I thought that meant there is a short circuit somewhere in the column or at the button. My thinking was that, in normal operation, pushing the button is supposed to establish the ground to make the horns go, but instead I must have a loose wire or something similar causing it to be grounded already. But when I took apart my horn button, it seems that it is designed to disconnect a circuit rather than establish one. IE, the spring is held tight between the ground cup and the contact plate. When I press the button it looks like the spring is pushed away from the contact plate, breaking the connection. I thought it was supposed to be the other way around, no circuit until button pushed. I've got an exploded-view diagram and it seems to be put together correctly. I guess my question is: is the button supposed to establish a circuit or break one? (I don't really understand how breaking a circuit would cause the horn to blow, but perhaps there is some trick.)

Here's a picture of a clock in a '46 New Yorker. The face and knob look the same, but the trim looks a bit different.