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jcmiller

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Everything posted by jcmiller

  1. I did end up using Fastenal and it worked great. It took less than a week and arrived in great shape. Very convenient and a good price. I'm going to have a fun weekend digging through the goodies.
  2. ... despite the technological limitations ... Cave Men on Wheels.pdf
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  3. I bought some NOS clips and some of the plastic ones, but neither worked well - I think because my front fender must be bent. I had my uncle weld some stainless threads onto rectangular pieces of sturdy stainless sheet metal. He has some kind of resistance stud welder that makes it easy. The sheet metal slides into the back of the moldings and the threads go through the holes in the fender. That works pretty well for me, but still not perfect because of the apparent bend in the fender.
  4. I think so too. (Hinge spring assemblies are different though.)
  5. Birnbaum calls them "Steering column and gearshift boots" and sells them for $71. http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-interior-rubber.aspx
  6. A guy on the power wagon forum gave me a great tip that I wanted to pass along: Fastenal Third-party Logistics. https://www.fastenal.com/en/22/third-party-logistics-(3pl) I got a quote for $200 to ship a pallet 34 inches high and weighing 290 pounds from MO to Portland. The guy who told me about it shipped a 40 inch high and 450 pound pallet from Seattle to WV for the same price.
  7. Thx. I just added a post there.
  8. Pls let me know if you or someone you know are able to haul a transmission from MO to OR for a reasonable price. Not a rush. Thx.
  9. I think our rates are $4.93 per 1,000 gallons plus a base fee of about $11/mo.
  10. I just told mine I'm thinking about buying a transmission. I like to test the waters first.
  11. I reversed the spring and that did not help. Removing the rectangular cardboard "washer" did.
  12. If you are only worried about the single-plate issue, stick with a '47 plate and make the argument that the "original manufacturer's design of the antique motor vehicle allows for the use of only single license plates." See below. The code specifically allows single plates for 1946, but also allows it for other years if that is how the car was designed. I would also call a different DMV office. But why not just get a pair of '47 plates? VCS § 46.2-730 B. On receipt of an application and evidence that the applicant owns or has regular use of another passenger car, autocycle, or motorcycle, the Commissioner may authorize for use on antique motor vehicles and antique trailers Virginia license plates manufactured prior to 1976 and designed for use without decals, if such license plates are embossed with or are of the same year of issue as the model year of the antique motor vehicle or antique trailer on which they are to be displayed. Original metal year tabs issued in place of license plates for years 1943 and 1952 and used with license plates issued in 1942 and 1951, respectively, also may be authorized by the Commissioner for use on antique motor vehicles and antique trailers that are of the same model year as the year the metal tab was originally issued. These license plates and metal tabs shall remain valid so long as title to the vehicle is vested in the applicant. The fee for the registration card and permission to use the license plates and metal tabs on any of these vehicles shall be a one-time fee of $50. If more than one request is made for use, as provided in this section, of license plates having the same number, the Department shall accept only the first such application. C. Notwithstanding the provisions of §§ 46.2-711 and 46.2-715, antique motor vehicles may display single license plates if the original manufacturer's design of the antique motor vehicles allows for the use of only single license plates or if the license plate was originally issued in one of the following years and is displayed in accordance with the provisions of subsection B: 1906, 1907, 1908, 1909, 1945, or 1946.
  13. Great car! Congratulations.
  14. I was able to reinstall the escutcheon on the regulator crank, but not the door handle, because I can't push the escutcheon far enough in to get to the hole for the pin. I see in this thread and one other that the larger side of the springs are supposed to go toward the panel. When I originally removed my panel, the larger side was facing the metal and that is how I put it back together. Does anyone know if switching the direction of the spring will improve my ability to get the handle and escutcheon back on? Also, along with the springs there was a rectangular piece of hard cardboard-like material between the springs and the door. Should that be there or between the springs and the panel?
  15. Yeah, I've been reading it in installments. I'm up to the sandblasting section now. It puts my little projects in perspective.
  16. Here is some info that may or may not be useful for you. Judging Guide.pdf
  17. For a rebuild of one of these, check out http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?10960-M4A4-restoration
  18. You can download a body and sheet metal cross reference here http://www.pwchryslerclub.org/resources.html It covers all 4 divisions from 1940-48.
  19. Thanks all. Here are a few more, although I'm pretty sure I know what these do. I'm a little unclear on the middle one, but I think it is for removing piston rings from the pistons. It spreads both side to side and up and down.
  20. See post 76 of this thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/35504-started-the-teardown/page-4
  21. Can you help me figure out what these tools are for? My neighbor gave them to me. His father in law was a mechanic. The one in the middle is a Miller tool, and the end looks like it has been pounded on. The tool with the handle rotates first one direction and then the other. Thx.
  22. From the national archives ...
  23. If you remove the rubber bumpers on the hinges, I think you should be able to open the trunk lid all the way up and simply detach one end of the spring from the slot it sits in. The tension goes away as you lift the lid higher and higher.
  24. Thanks guys. Turns out the tranny won't work so don't need the transport.
  25. Anyone driving from Boise area to Portland, Oregon in the next several months and willing to haul a transmission over for a reasonable fee? Thx.
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