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jcmiller

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Everything posted by jcmiller

  1. Regarding the # P 11156703 (the number on the title), do you interpret it as the 156,703rd engine for P11s?
  2. I suspect you are going to have trouble with this. The paper title document seems to be from a different 1941 (Detroit built Special Deluxe). The serial number on the car is a Detroit built Deluxe. (If I am reading the chart correctly at Tod's link.)
  3. There is a thread here somewhere about tricks for painting the red parts of the hubcaps.
  4. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hoffman-1937-1942-Plymouth-Dodge-Chrysler-Desoto-Key-Coder-/331389034634?hash=item4d2853608a&item=331389034634&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr
  5. I sent you a PM about a set of '42 rear fenders in case you want to go with that style opening.
  6. Yes you can use other rear fenders from 1946-48 Plymouths. I understand that 1942 fenders also work but have a different opening.
  7. Shortly after Bob posted his picture of a nice, sunny northwest day, we got hit with an unusual early-season icy-blast. At our house it manifested as freezing rain, which occurs when the ground is below freezing and there is warmer air above. It falls as liquid and freezes on contact. Here are a couple pictures of one of my cars under a tarp. The tarp is frozen solid as shown by the bag sitting on what would normally be a floppy fold. We're back to nice sunny weather again today.
  8. I'm sure you could rig up an adapter.
  9. Some of you probably remember the recent auction in central Oregon of a couple hundred Mopars. A member of our local Chrysler and Plymouth clubs picked up this nice Barracuda. http://www.pwchryslerclub.org/memberCars/Kerslake.html
  10. I think the answer will be no, but you can find our for sure using the body and sheet metal reference available at: http://www.pwchryslerclub.org/resources.html It's quite large so right click and download it to your computer instead of opening it in your browser.
  11. I love it when that happens.
  12. You sure that's a "friend"? (I've got a 46 nyer (3W) in similar shape. I've been watching this one, thinking about contacting him for parts, but the price seems so ridiculous that it's probably a waste of time.)
  13. Here are the specs for Plymouth, but it seems like the concepts should be the same. By the way, when I was redoing my brakes, Hagen's charged the same price for a stepped bore rebuild as for the typical wheel cylinder. Some of the other shops were going to charge twice the regular price. brakeSpecs.pdf
  14. Welcome, and congratulations on the '42. You're lucky it has the front "scoop" intact. I've got a '42 coupe and have accumulated quite a few parts. Send me a PM if you need anything.
  15. http://www.nj.com/hunterdon-county-democrat/index.ssf/2014/10/parked_1950_desoto_damaged_in.html http://www.nj.com/hunterdon-county-democrat/index.ssf/2014/10/1950_desoto_destroyed_beside_r.html It would be interesting to see the security video.
  16. Here's a pic from a '46 New Yorker.
  17. Charger looks great!
  18. It took a little longer, but with the help of three neighbors (not pictured) I got it onto the porch yesterday. We used a lawn tarp with extra nylon straps sewn into it.
  19. Wow, 39 posts (now 40) and the OP never came back.
  20. Kind of like an inch worm. Luckily, we were able to keep the rear wheels of the hoist in the garage and had no problem rolling the whole unit up and into the garage. I was surprised how big these things are though.
  21. Thx. Good idea to lower it before trying to roll.
  22. Thanks. I rented a beefy hoist. My main concern is a sloped driveway. Hopefully I can keep the hoist mostly in the flat garage and get the boom high enough to grab the engines without hitting the top of the garage door opening. It should be fine. I've done it before with a flathead six. The only difference is these are flathead eights so heavier. I'll find out tomorrow morning when they arrive.
  23. I have to figure out how to unload two engines from a truck into my garage and how to get this thing onto my front porch.
  24. For the strip on the garnish I used stainless wire to replace the original staples. I drilled holes in the fuzzy to match the original holes and then used staple-shaped pieces of the wire to hold it on. The wire is flexible enough so that I was able to bend the ends over by hand. I tried replacement staples from Rest. Spec. first but they were too strong to bend the ends down in the confined space on the back of the garnish.
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