DJ194950

body work and shrinking disc use..htm Suppose this is in the wrong forum-my bad! Again. Gtk, move as needed! Doug

I agree with dave, Remove that old filler. Because if its some of the early bondo it does not flex well in heat or hold on as tightly as the newer stuff. A grinder with 80 grit disc will remove it quickly-wear a dust mask!- then you can properly repair the dents with the least amount of filler that's also the newer good stuff! doug

The dolly in the pic is usually called a bumping dolly as it made to be held on the smaller rounded end the be held in the hand and bumped up or down on body panels in low/high spots. Any piece of metal or even wood can be used as a dolly to reach areas that need work. I've used almost everything at one time or another in body work. Paul, i'd suggest a trip to harbor freight to get some body tools that include some more shapes of dollys. Why? You want to use a dolly that best fits the shape of the metal that when straightened best matches the original shape. If you look at some more that are avail. you will see what i'm talking about. Hope that video I fowarded to you was of some help. The shrinking disc was totally new to me, but does seem to work easily. For you that do not know what i'm talking about i'll try to put that up on another post soon, before I get in trouble again! Doug

Know wat you're saying too well!!! Doug

Not really, it's all in good fun! I feel that's why none of the "police" have commented yet! But they are "lurking". Again I gest! I'm fine and time to take another calming pill! A few forum members are real diehard and have very experienced opinions. I really do understand their points! They are Not wrong! I do love and read this forum daily because it does give lots of info, pro and cons to ideas. Nothing better out there. Watch, read and see! Doug

Question: isn't Langdons set up made from / 6 dist.? Just for my knowledge am I askin! A neebe won't understand the police reference, but I certainly do! Trying to type quickly as i"m not a good typist! GOT TO GO NOW! Doug

After entering this forum you can use the search function at the top of the page for "electronic ignition conversion" and find older posts on what members have done. Some did their own conversions using slant six mopars converted, one co. makes the same, which should be found in that search, also you can go to the forums bar and go to resources page and look at downloads, there is a download with Pertronix electronic ign. conversions by dist. # that should be on you dist. tag on the side of the dist. Many here will ask why the changeover? I like it but many don't! Doug

Vpw (a advertiser on this forum) sells used 230ci flywheels. Maybe not cheap, but maybe less thans Don's solution of machining the starter mounting face of the bellhousing, believe that was as simular problem of depth of the starter/flywheel . Check if this is needed, I really don't know as while I have motors, 218 and 230 cranks but only flywheels for 218ci. I don't have any extra bellhousings. Maybe someone does and can give a more complete answer. I would also like to know for future use! Doug

The nuts will Not come off within one turn of the flywheel. Loosen as far as you can and rotate motor again slowly after moving the converter out as far as possible and then you will be able to take nuts the rest of the way off. I understand the the shared oil ports need to be plugged off to be used on a std. trans. setup. How I have never done this, but sure someone on this forum will give you the answer. Doug.

Best of luck! Seems the OD trans are like hens teeth. 230's not a problem. furd and chevy Od trans are readily avail (nobody wants them!) and not too expensive but do Not fit the Mopars! It's not impossible but it could be a long search. Some memebers have been lucky checking all older wrecking yards in their area. Egge specializes in older engine parts and rebuilding them. Suppose they buy NOS when possible and they have someone mfg. for them some updated seals for some older motors. Do they have someone still making the rear main seals for our cars? I hope so, at least someone is! If not their supply will vary when they can find NOS. Call them and ask? Doug

Looking back at post #4, There is a bearing inside of the fluid drive unit that could be bad. I'd think that could only happen if the other bushings in that post went bad in the past and were not repaired and internal seal went bad and fluid drive was run low on fluid at some point. Repairs on these are Very expensive and I hope you find some other reason behind this. Although a pain, maybe some has a fluid drive that you could swap units and try. I know--last resort! Doug

I remember as a kid people having a very hard time getting to the side of the road or crashing often also with the old bias ply tires that would blow out when flat! We are talking late 50's-early 60's. Do not care for them at all because of this. I've had several radials go totally flat even fly to pieces without any problem driving to a clear area of road even when driving 70mph. No bias for me, I don't like driving slow. Just me! Doug

I agree with Don that it does help break the rust "connection" with the expansion/contraction as pieces colls at slightly differant speeds this thickness differences. When possible on accessable places that are not caked with old grease etc., An acetylene torch with a Large tip or even a appropiiate to part size rosebud tip is used to heat just the outter part fast with the inner part staying cooler as the heat is Quickly applied to just the outter part as best as possible with wet rags when possible applied to the inner part. Metal expands when heated, two parts connected, heated at differant temps they expand at diff. rates-helping break the connection between the two pieces. Often still requireing some applied force! When multiple parts are in this connection this can be difficult to accomplish, with the end result being just the same as heating everything. Still helps though. We used to sprays lots of penetrant on the still warm parts,(not red hot) seemed to help some, but did make a lot of smoke though, no fires! Doug

I also got a rear seal from Berbaums and it was too long, called and told to cut to fit. Never looked right at all even after I cut to lenght. Called my local machine shop and he located one for me, but in order to not up the cost he just gave me the name and phone # to the co. It was not cheap-about $30 shipped, but it fit perfect. no cutting and came with a thin plastic pieces that were used to help get the seal in place without cutting the rubber on the block edge. Fit perfect, easy install! Worth it in the end for the correct seal and tools to install without damage. Egge Machine-So. Cal---egge.com Also in the links pages under suppliers. Doug

Some of the strays are the best cats in my experience. House only cats-a total waste~! If they won't work for some their food and be of help, who needs them. Best cat I ever had and was a big red tomcat stray who stayed outside or came inside to sleep in my garage thru the doggie door with my german shepard dog (they became pals) He loved attention but if I was busy or not into giving attention, he didn't care. Scratching posts were the bottom 3 ft. of my front yard trees, nothing else, he's been gone now for 1 1/2 yrs. but my trees still show that he was there! If he was sitting on my lap purring and needling still no feel of his Big claws. Doug

I've seen and worked on a few chrysler flat motors in stationary applications with the same govenors as used on the forklifts that i regularily worked on, thet just had a locking type t-pull handle that the operator pulled the throttle to full wide open position, locked it, and the govenors still controlled max rpms at recommened rpms for full output. Compressors/electric generators and such. New stuff has electronic controls to limit rpms, usually with and electric powered solenoid using pulse wave type controls to change the amount of pull on the solenoid. Sorry, got way off track. I've not worked on this type machinery no for 4 years and maybe what I said is now old tech. Best to ya all Doug

Car covers+cat/cats = Cat bed/oversize scratching post! Doug

They are not needed for any purpose except to limit a lead footed kid from over reving the motor. Almost all were used for industrial motor uses. We had them on all of our forklifts that ran on gas 30+ years ago, including many Chrysler Industrial motors. The co. I worked for back then rented these forklifts out for construction purposes mainly and had no control on who operated them-hence maintaining the govenors! They were avail. new then but I remember the owner said how expensive the replacements were and almost all were repairable with almost all problems were due to inexperienced persons trying to do adjustments! They can be very touchy! Do you want them you an original look? If not they can be removed with shorter carb. studs installed. No change in the overall performance will be noticed if removed. keep your foot off the floor for extended periods. Best, Doug

Questions, did you run an antifreeze mix before changing the water pump? What type of bypass system is on your motor- block type or hose, water pump to thermostat housing? Do you have a heater? I could not seem to get all the air from the engine cooling system after a motor replacement until I turned the heater on and let the car run till warm with my pressurized cap OFF. Had your car been changed over to a pressurized system? These experienced pros on this forum may give you some more things to look at depending on you responses. Sure you'll figure it out soon! Doug

If you want to build a mount for an add on filter base and filter check out: Wix 24755 $35 at summit Napa 4755 $ ?? Baldwin ob 1305 $ ?? All mounts made for bypass filters only- use a 5/8"-18 thread that is diff. from the usual sizes. Filters to match: napa 1050 wix 51050 Bypass only type filters. Google the wix # and there is pics avail. that show the restricted inlet in the filter. Specs are 10 micron, 1-3 gpm flow . Total cost less mount you build should not be over $75. Make your own lines or get sizes and lenghts needed and take to a Napa store and have them make them. I did! Some this info found on a powerwagon forum with a post started by a Greybeard member ( name sounds familar) with pics of install. Sorry to everyone put I did not pay enough attention as to which powerwagon forum. Anyway my 2 cents Doug

Is the car buyable? Heck I'd bet some big dollar rodder would pay over 2 grand just for that guage panel!! Very interesting find! Doug

Quess I'll be seeing Tim soon to get my keys,! Let me know when Tim. Make sure to get both sets! Doug

The shaft part of the "bolt" could be frozen inside the mount point of the brake cyl. or steer arm or both. Do you have a way the heat the "bolt" quickly? Torch w/ large tip or 2nd. choice a propane torch. heat both and try again. Try to keep heat as mush as possible of the "bolt" itself!. Good luck, Doug Sould have said OFF the bolt !!!

Googling for a fuel pump for your car shows possibilities: Orielly's (spelled wrong i'm sure) Summitracing (truck, take a look at picture). Napa has had some avail. at times check locally. How about a rebuild kit? They are avail. and if you research this forum you can get the names of places to buy them. Some are highly recommended. Best of luck Doug

Paul, save all pieces very carefully as I doubt you will every find a good one as that get very brittle with age. The one in my 50 had the top of line heater/defrost with a cardboard or paper type air plenum duct somewhat like yours that I spent many hours recreating one from a sheet metal back side and fiberglass front after fitting the metal back to the car and building a mold from the parts left from the original front cardboard pieces and expanding foam sanded to shape. Glassed over the front to build the part then married to glass part to the steel backplate. Took weeks and a LOT of patience. You may have enough left to creat some type of recreation or just carefully fiberglass over the duct work to support it. Doug