DJ194950

This company sold one piece curved windsheilds for p-15's a few years ago. I was inquiring myself for one to fit 49 & 50's. No go go on that back then. Checked again, still going strong! Even now selling on ebay. Anyway the contact info is: Jefferis auto glass San Luis Obispo, Ca. onepiececurved.com jefferishotrod@juno.com- email 805-543-4757 orders-800-807-1937 On their website is a install video for anyone interested. They also sell tempered ( no lamination) flat glass cut to theirs/yours patterns. Just info for anyone who might be interested! Best to ya, Doug

Check: classicinlines.com Also just google 2-1 carburator adapter

Did you have to use your old shifter arms on the trans ends to fit? The OD arms were way differant shaped on the OD trans i bought for my 50 and i changed them to the original arms to fit the original rods better, but they are very touchcy on adjustment to get the 1st/ reverserve selector to work. It Is very touchy to get into lower gears but I got used to it and now not a real problem! I would also like to hear from any other on imputs to eliminate this "touchyness". Hard for me to say that they are a problem as i bought the car without a motor and the original 3 sd. trans in the trunk along with the shifter arms. Never tried the original 3 sd. Best to ya, Doug

Dutchman, The parts are avail., no problem. Perhaps if George A. can send you a parts picture with the parts needed marked, you can email to me and make sure that he gets exactly what he needs. My understanding is he does not do the email thing so mailing it to you and forwarding to me will work the best. Too bad you HAD to attend the Vegas gig! Let me know, Doug

Looks like i get to be the first report from Tim's BBQ. Great fun and people! Good turn out i'd guess amost doulble the attendance from last year and man was Tim busy but stiil a great host. Many more posts and pictures to follow I'm sure. Many were taken I know! Easy trip from Modesto to Clements except for one minor problem with Pflamings new truck 1 block from my house as we were just getting started. Easy fix. Paul can tell about it if inclined. good to meet Mark and his 47 Ply. coupe for the drive.. Best to ya, Doug

Tim, A while back, Jim Shepard mentioned that he may like to put my car on your rack to check out the OD trans and install. Now that Pflaming wants to check under his truck after the trip up, Are you planning a sign up sheet for a time to use the rack?? Might get busy with all the trucks planning to be there. Have you assembled an inspection team?? I've been thinking about bringing a tablet and my auto stethoscope and get opinions on a new new noise in my motor. A prize to awarded later, after the problem?? is correctly Identified?? Sorry I did not mean one of your prizes, but one of my own. Golden stethoscope?? See ya tomorrow! Doug

Try cleaning the points, check again! Should take a good effort pushing agaist something solid, should be very hard to push back in. Checked on ebay as they used to have used avail. 50-60 bucks! Now the current prices about same as a new price. The packard solenoid is probably the longer plunger type 1 1/4" vs. 1" most had, measured from the mount surface to tip of the plunger. Not usuable if so. 5th.ave.garage now sells new not reman'ed but for $265 + shipping. I have a spare 6v. solenoid, not to sure of working order. Maybe someone close to you has a spare to use on your trip.( I'm in CA.). Best to ya, Doug

When the OD solenoid is installed aligned ready to install mount bolts but not yet bolted down, Pull outward on solenoid does it pull out? It should NOT be able to be removed without turning it. If it can be removed by doing that the shaft is not locked into the OD shifter prawl. Run into that in the past. With solenoid totally removed, use a hooked pick to pull outward on the prawl as far as possible (rotating the driveline may be needed to get prawl disengaged). Reinstall solenoid with rotation and recheck. Just a possibility! Best of luck, you'll love the OD when working! Doug

I know you've been on this forum for WAY longer and I see what you're saying! I thought I was just throwing another "idea" out there for others to pick & choose that they can choose/modify or wait for stock pieces their choice. Most "regulars" do understand experiences/ thoughts. "Newbies" often are looking for "one stop answers", I appreciate all "ideas"! I choose what i use if any. I like creating! my own! Often the inspiration for Mine is a take off from others imputs with MY change! Plus I "STEAL SOME" ! WHY reinvent the wheel!!! That's why I read the FORUM!!!

I totally agree! If I made too big a point of this, my only thought is to others that might not be as experieced with modififying things to make this type of modification change work! Would not want to lead anyone astray! Nothing implied on your abilities as I've seen your projects!! Sure did not mean anything on the post to be a negative! Best to ya all! Doug

Question? Do the 46-48 Ply,'s rocker mouldings hang below the rocker panel on the lower edge as the rockers as 49-50's do? On my 50 4 dr. I'd guess they do at least 1/2". On Tim's and Joe's idea I do not see any real problems if a very close horizontal center line is established first. Suggest a larger tube to allow for alighment issues. Sealing holes?? Sealer?? Another idea? Use very available trim mount style clips that just hold to the folded over edge of the trim piece as tightened with the spring type small wire to hold in position as the nut is tightened. This would require establishing the center line as before, drilling a hole thru both the outer panel and the inner panel aligned fairly level. Then open the outter to say 1/2" and the inner to same to allow for minor adjustment. The newer type clips are Usually 1/4" course studs in this width that would need a 1/4" X 1/4" connecter female both ends to span the inner/outter rocker panels ( commonly avail. at hardware stores) Plus some all thread, use a larger flat washer( Body washer) inside to spread the load as tightened. Seal the outter hole and inner with sealer to keep moisture out. That's my 2 cents. Thinking about it too for my 50 Suburban wagon if i ever get back to it !!

Check out - piecemanifolds.com # 99006.104 Kit for dual carbs $67.00 Best to ya, Doug

Thinking about the switch install i did about 1-1 1/2 years ago i think? that i actually ran a grounding wire from the connection to another hole i drilled in the B post and installed a screw. I think there was room in the B post hole for the switch to mount the wire outside on the post. The switch and cover probably were installed on top of the upholstery on the B post making my original post a sometimes iffy ground thru the switch mounting screw. Anyway i see that you get what needs to happen and you'll figure it out to suit yourself from here. Best Doug

Joe, your car has a full time hot to the interior light. Test this at the light socket. The switches only provide a Ground to the light either thru the door post push button type switch or the on/off B post switch. Some switches only have 1 wire and the other contact is thru the body of the switch. Switches with 2 contacts-- Wire one of the two (either) to the mounting screw of the switch. Most of the factory door switches where of the self grounding of the body many after market switches often had 2. Clean the mount area for a good ground and was mentioned in a previous post, work the switch in/out/ turning/ etc to try to get a good Internal contact connection. Best to ya, Doug

The Weather Channel forcast this past weekend was for rain yesterday ( was cool and a little windy) Today was forcast as lingering showers (it's high 70's a few high fair weather clouds). I'm out in the garage with the small back door open and the big door open, wearing only a tee shirt! Next Sat. has a 10% chance of rain per their long range forcast. Judging by the past quesses. there is a good chance it could be in the 80's and totally sunny. Hope they're wrong as usual! Anybody have AC?? See ya next weekend, Doug

May I add, IF the switch can handle the amp draw of the OD solenoid. Often a relay is used to carry the Heavy load as many switches are not rated to carry the amp load required! Best to all of ya, Doug

Hope that works well for ya, Best of luck!! Doug

Why wonder why they are built cheesy?? They were disigned to be used on throw away Fords!!!

Stock otherwise??? I really like the wheels! Great looking buy!!! Close to the appearance to chromed American Racing Original "style" Americans! Everyone has an opinion! Best to ya, Doug

I liked it! Made copy of pics for my file in case the borrowed adjustment tool becomes harder to borrow! Thanks, Doug

Joe, If you have not completely installed all pieces yet, try tightening the adustment nuts and make sure your brake shoes can still be moved. When installing new shoes on my 50 4 dr. the PO had parts installed all wrong including one of those spacers was missing. After looking at the same blow up parts that Al posted, things were assembled as per pic. But one shoe would not move when nuts on the adjuster were tightned, another shoe still set cockeyed. Changes in spacers corrected both problems. Do you have or borrowed a factory type shoe setting tool? It took a lot of messing arround to get my shoes centered, flat to the tool(drum) even with the tool! Did you put some light oil on the Felts? It helps the lower shoe pivot points clean and moving smoothly. Getting closer-closer! Best to ya, Doug

I also bought the parts manuel Al pictured, it's a big help often as there is at least twice or more diagrams in all catagories. The other plus- it covers all Mopar passenger cars for 50, so if you're needing to know if other brands will interchange you're set, as far as 50's go. Best to ya, Doug

Trying to get message to ya in response to you wanted ad for 49 Ply. bumpers wanted. Seems that you have Not enabled messages to ya. If your still looking, contact me, Best to ya, Doug

Stan, i'm glad you liked the verifier service! A friend has used one many times with what would have been a complicated mess at the local DMV. My understanding that the verifier does not have to go to a DMV office and just sends the paper work directly to the DMV, since HE is verified my the state DMV to know/follow all DMV laws, ie. He/ she is an equal to a person at the local DMV office. I suspect that the cost would be Much higher if they actually had to stand in line at a DMV office! How was your conversation with him about what he can actually do?. The reason i'm asking is that a friend owns a 56 chevy truck that the title # and the tag# on the door post is one # off! Now he doesn't know what to do and he's afraid to ask the Ca. DMV as they can have a car confiscated and impounded while a check is done to make sure that it isn't stolen! ( He got the truck about 7-8 years ago from his son with the paper work already screwed up). Truck has just been parked at his farm for those years. I've suggested he try and verifier first and hopefully not open a bad can of worms!!! Appreciate your comments/thoughts on the verifier experiences if you have any beyound what you already posted! Thanks, Doug